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The stock set-up has the binary switch mounted to the top of the drier that the power wire goes thru that monitors the freon pressure. When it detects low pressure, it will not send power to the compressor. The only time delay that I am aware of is mounted to the bottom of the heater box but...

I guess it could be a broken wire or bad firewall connection somewhere then. With a non standard setup, it could be most anything. Research is inevitable.

Are you sure you are not low on freon? If so, the binary switch on top of your drier will tell the compressor not to start.

If it were me, I would ditch the pusher fan in favor of a couple of puller fans with a shroud. Or a factory type thermo fan with shroud. You mentioned you have a serpentine belt set-up. I had one of them from March Performance on my 70 440 Six pack Challenger that was an under drive set up...

Direct replacements should be from any of the C body cars. (1965-66 Dodge Polara, Plymouth Fury, Chrysler) but you need to know a few things first. What engine? Auto or Manual trans, ECT. You must not have AC or you would have had a 26" radiator in 66. Big block and Small block cars have the...

I'm pretty sure your blower motor is accessible from under the hood. The FSM is more than likely referring to the Non AC heater box. Are you sure you're getting all three speeds? If so, those blower motors do get dirty and corroded causing slower speeds and high current flow.

It has been mentioned that Mopar upgraded to a 26" radiator in 66 in AC cars. I know this to be true. I believe the 66 Core support will bolt right in your 65 with no trouble. It will help the issue but whether it will cure it remains to be seen. I too, believe a pair of puller fans is better...

I believe Chrysler realized the 22" radiator was not enough radiator in 65. In 66, all the AC cars got the 26" radiator. I would try to upgrade to the thermo clutch fan to see if that helps. If not, maybe you could find a 66 AC car and swap in the wider core support and radiator.

You shouldn't be able to hear it run on low speed with the engine running. If your blower motor is noisy that is a different problem or if it runs at high speed all the time then your resistor could be the problem. I still think your lack of vacuum is the issue. Fix that first and foremost.

If your switch is working properly, when you ohm it out it will read either zero or nothing depending on the position of each button if the switch is open or closed. I think your switch is fine. You just need to get vacuum to it. Once you get the vacuum working, it will be easy to hear the...

I think your problem is in the vacuum. You are losing the vacuum somewhere from the engine to the heater control switch. Maybe plugged or pinched. You will need to trace that hose through the firewall and verify you have vacuum to the switch. If all the hoses are hooked up correctly you should...

I thought you bought the 3431020 switch. That switch should operate correctly in that it shouldn't run the compressor or the blower motor all the time. If you have the 3895790 then the compressor should run in defrost mode according to the ones I tested. I have not seen any reviews on the...

I too went through the mis-information that these switches are all the same. I bought one from Rick Ehernberg (tech writer for Mopar Action) a few years ago and he told me the same thing. That was when I found out they do not all work the same. I am using the 3502126 switch that runs the fan on...

From my testing on these switches, they are not all the same. 3502126 runs the fan on low with ignition on and everything else off. 3895790 runs the compressor constantly when in defrost mode Those were the differences I found when testing and comparing them to 2571501, 2820487, 3431017, 3431020...

In my post 15 I was wondering about the pull and push fans too. If I were you I would ditch the pusher and use that 16" puller with a shroud and you should be golden. I have a 22" radiator in my 65 with a thermo clutch fan and my 383 runs right around 190 even when the temps get up to close to...

Good luck getting it dealt with. Overheating is no good for us or our cars. Mine is pretty much all stock with no heat issues. I have a 22" radiator with a thermo clutch fan and shroud. I also have a screen in front of the radiator to keep the bugs out. I did notice the screen raises the temp a...

You could try one of these pumps before giving up on your underdrive pulley. It sounds like you have plenty of cooling but maybe the water is staying in the engine too long at idle. The coolant movement and the radiator have to work together to get the proper coolant temperature. Since your...

Not sure just what is causing your heat issues but I know most of those serpentine systems use an underdrive pulley running the water pump much slower. I put a March serpentine system on my 70 Challenger many years ago and that car never liked to idle long either. Never got hot while driving but...

It all depends on how much you need to move it. If you are replacing a water pump or something, you should be able to lift it up a few inches without losing your freon. You should find that info in your FSM.

The tubes circled in blue are are drain tubes. They have sleeves on them that have to be removed to enable the tray to be removed from the housing. I believe I sprayed some WD-40 in the tube and twisted the sleeves to remove them. Maybe I needed some heat also. I'm not sure how I did it but I...