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Later LAs use a 192° stat. That is why you see "mayo" with a 180. As for "steam" coming from the pcv and breather ensure it isn't blow by from the crankcase.

It hasn't been esablished if there actually was a problem before work was started. You could have checked coolant flow without removing the stat. When the stat opens water will flow through the rad. If water flowed after warm up then the stat was at least partially working. Thing is, it was...

Normally referred to as 426 W since the Hemi was the STREET Hemi and it was based on the 426 WEDGE block. The letters W and H were used based on the heads to avoid confusion. Never seen any of the wedge engines referred to with the S. (Yes, one was the S42 option) Street Wedge began to be used...

Kool kars! What is a 426S? Not a 426H....not a 426W....

Dylan does mostly MoPar stuff. He has a huge collection.

You could have at least used period correct carpet...shagadelic, baby!

There were two Firestone/Ford debacles. One was the defective Firestone 500s, which were defective. I had a new car that had them and they were pure junk. That was the late 70s. The other was with the Explorers, which had to do with overloading and being undersized. A cousin was a tire factory...

The Exploders had radials. And the pressure on the sidewall is MAX pressure. The car maker recommendation is on the B pillar. Two different pressures. The car maker seems to prioritize soft ride over handling.

The problem was a combination of the low tire pressure and the size of the tires Ford used. They used the same size tires as used on the Ranger. Undersized for Exploders.

Actually the recommended tire pressure was 26 psi.

Remember the Firestone/Ford Exploder tire debacle? It was due to pressure recommendations being far too low for the vehicle and the tire. It caused the tires to run hot and when cornering hard for the tire to fold under, causing the vehicle to overturn. As mentioned earlier, they set pressures...

NO. YOU DO NOT BUY BACK WHAT YOU ALREADY OWN. The insurance covers THE VALUE of the car, not the car itself. Insurance companies don't want cars. It costs them money to deal with disposing of them. "Buying back" is a scam to reduce their payout and they don't have to mess with the car. BTDT.

Drive the maroon, work on the white.

Whatever monetary settlement you make do NOT allow them to fool you into "buying" your own car. By doing that, the title changes hands and then gets reissued as salvage. They don't insure the title or the car, they insure its value. BTDT. In fact, after going round and round for weeks on it...

DO NOT FALL FOR THE "BUY IT BACK" SCAM! It's YOUR car and the insurance company doesn't pay for the car, they pay for the LOSS IN THE VALUE of the car. Stand firm on this.

Water/alcohol injection has been used for years in the aircraft industry. You Dont want to use too much water at a time because you can hydrolock the engine. Rods dont like that. Get a spray bottle and squirt that down the engine's gullet. Or use carb cleaner. A stock 318 shouldn't be pinging if...

We used that brand oil in a chebby dirt track engine that burned alky. It immediately threw a rod. You might think the engine was ready to blow up. Built a new engine and broke it in, raced it and as soon as that oil went in...boom! We talked to them and they admitted they had problems with it...

But its still the companies allowing shoddy parts to be sold. Yes, the consumer wants low prices but you cant have good quality and the lowest price. The consumers somehow learned low prices are better than good parts. They need to be retrained. For instance those Raybestos brake drums that I...

But it's American companies that are responsible.

Even name brand parts can be a problem. I bought some Raybestos brake drums for my Dakota and they were made in China. Then once installed they were out of round.