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In case some members didn't know there are two versions of the 509 cam. Mopar Performance added a more street friendly 509 cam to their line of Purple Shaft camshafts. Part# P5007698 with 114 LSA The original version part# P4120237 with 108 LSA :steering:

On Nick's tested motor I'd guess around 4 or 5HP & TQ loss with the log manifolds. If that was a stock 383 2bbl motor it would probably be even less. Cam specs on Nick's test motor is .475 in and .480 ex. Duration @ .050" Lift is 224 in and 228 ex. LS 110

That intake was a Chrysler parts over the counter deal and would have been ordered out of this Hi-Performace Parts catalog. Buy 1967 1968 Chrylser Dodge Plymouth Mopar Hi-Performance Parts Catalog Book 1966 motorcycle in Republic, Missouri, US, for US $175.00 It came out for the 1968 model year...

Torque converter drain back is a normal thing on our old 727's.......you're just going to have to seal up the trans. If your leaking fluid around the torque converter hub and the seal is new, it's either that the converter hub is under size from wear or the front pump bushing in worn causing...

When I heard about this EFI, I put it on my "maybe I should get one" list. I'm always leery of new companies starting out, but they're selling these EFI's like crazy. Using OEM injectors, sensors, etc is a definite plus.

x2 Insulating/wrapping the fuel line helps to.

I thought it could be a Prestolite with the nipple assembly removed. I don't know what that vacuum advance is for.

My guess is that it's for a Prestolite dizzy. I would need a side photo to confirm.

Chrysler and Prestolite vacuum advance rods have numbers stamped that range from 8 up to 11 from what I remember. So you would double the number (8x2)= 16 deg.

On a tight budget, I would suggest finding a cast 4bbl intake or a used stock looking aluminum one, a used 383-440 Magnum cam with lifters, electronic ignition, a used 340-383 HP torque converter and headers. Sell or trade that holley 830hp carb and buy a 650-750 vacuum secondary carb. 2cents

If your carb was a 600-650 CFM with mechanical secondaries, you would probably be ok. A 750-850 CFM carb would work on your 383 if it had vacuum secondaries. Chrysler put lots of 800CFM carbs on small motors.....example, the '71 340. With a properly setup carb and ignition, you won't have any...

I think that holley 830hp carb has mechanical secondaries. I would suggest finding one with vacuum secondaries.

I suspect too light of advance springs for a heavy car and you probably need to back off the advance in the vacuum advance.

Like Dave said, set the timing at 35 BTDC @3500rpm with the vacuum hose disconnected at the distributor and plug the hose. Another thing too try is to take the car out for a drive with the vacuum advance disconnected and the hose plugged. It shouldn't detonate like this. Let us know the results.

I'm sorry , but that Comp 480/280 cam is just not right with your combination and there is something wrong with your timing. Please start a new thread and we will help you out.

I'm assuming you are running stock int & ext manifolds. If you want to use an off the shelf cam instead of a custom grind, I would recommend the Comp XE262H. Good low to mid-range torque and you don't need to rev it much more higher than a stock Magnum cam...

Are you planning on painting your motor turquoise when it's all one assembly???.......it looks corporate blue on my monitor.

They have a different way of thinking, that's for sure!:laughing7:

Before this turns into a pissing match, we're talking about a 5% difference in flow @ .450" lift. :laughing7: You may notice a difference on the dyno, but not on the street.

It wouldn't hurt to smooth the combustion chamber and the exhaust port of those iron heads before you rebuild them. It should help reduce the chance of carbon build up. http://www.johnstuartpowerbrake.com/ This place does nice work if that water pump is original to the engine.