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Seriously?

I think this is a great question and way more relevant than asking about how to get 1/4 mile times down (apologies to MEV, and my favorite New Yorker). I didn’t read all the responses (I’ll do that later when the kids are asleep), but engines get best fuel mileage at the torque peak. Do tuning...

Can you spray water on the radiator?

If you are torn between two cams, they say always go with the smaller one. You may have noticed that nobody recommended a cam with more than 230* of duration at 0.050” lift

Just flip the picture and it will fit fine.

Sorry, didn’t mean to be insulting. And also, I could very well be wrong. But however it works out, you’re doing it right by clearly identifying what you want, talking about it with a pro and going with his recommendation. You’re going to have an unbelievable engine in that car. No doubt about...

A little late to the party, but I’m not sure I buy the builder’s assertion that his car is going to “easily” make 600 lb-ft. There’s an article I’ve linked elsewhere about a 383 build with a roller cam, MP aluminum heads, Performer RPM intake, and dyno headers. That made torque at about...

Isn’t there some need to have height between the carb top and the bottom of the air cleaner? I think if you drop the base too much the air doesn’t flow around the tight corner as well and you give up power. Of course, I have no idea if you gain more by the taller manifold than you lose by...

I’m not sure it would behave that way, but I’ve always thought that the nice, “long-legged” feel was a combination of extra power and relatively high rotating mass.

You, sir, are my hero.

I think the lightened crank is a waste of money in your application. A lightened crank won’t make any more power. It might accelerate marginally faster but it might also not cruise as smoothly because it will change speeds in both directions more rapidly. This is another case of the bulk of...

Ahh. That’s more info. Yes, if you want drivability more than pop-the-hood bling, then stick with a single four barrel.

If you want it to look cool when you pop the hood, go with a Max Wedge cross ram reproduction for stock port heads. You can run Eddy or the small TF or Stealths. Will look cool, run almost as hard as a good single quad, and not require a huge investment in other expensive parts.

Nice ‘priller

I think Wiltons are cast iron as well. Nice vises, but still not meant to beat on.

You will be hard pressed to find a reasonably priced vise that can take a beating like that Columbian. Those were frequently cast steel. Most buses are cast iron and not designed to take more than the occasional blow to straighten something relatively light. I’m not sure anyone is making cast...

All good points. Another point to consider is OD ratio. 4L80 is a 25% OD Gear Vendors is a 29% OD 518 is a 31% OD Depending on the speeds you drive, you might find the “hunting” in and out of OD mentioned above. Gear Vendors is upwards of $2500 plus any other mods and the price of a...

You’re exactly right. The trouble for me is figuring out what is the best marginal thousand bucks. If I’m going to do a stock rebuild with 440-source heads, and I want to spend about a thousand bucks extra, what’s the best option for my use case? Cubes? ($1500) Roller cam? ($1000) TTI headers...

Or, said another way, an RPM picks up 15hp with no loss of torque. If I had room under the hood, I’d have bought one of those rather than a CH4B. But my air cleaner makes an imprint on my hood pad with the factory iron. I don’t have a lot of room for any more manifold height.

I don’t think my car has anywhere near 480 now, no. It’s got 176k on the original engine. But there’s no way I’m going to rebuild it with a target less than the factory baseline. If I can’t beat 480 at 2800, I’m not going to do anything other than a stock build.