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I wish you luck. 68 Chrysler HVAC box removal FRUSTRATED I believe the 1966 Dash gives you a bit more working room than the '67-'68 does. At the very least, the glove box liner is easier to get out. Jeff

I got the old Mityvac out and plugged it into each port on the main connector that goes to the control head. There doesn't seem to be any special trick to get the doors to open and close. One thing that I did notice is that the defroster doors are slightly open any time the A/C door is...

Those vacuum actuators should not bleed off at all. Theoretically, they should hold vacuum forever. Despite that, your listed bleed off times are pretty long and the engine should have no trouble providing enough vacuum to compensate for the slight leakage you have. I had to replace one of...

Photos. This is a 1966 box, but is probably the same as '68. Jeff

Looks like yours is a fusey box. I should shoot some photos of a slab box just in case the linkage is different. Jeff

I can do that if @Trace 300 Hurst doesn't have some pics ready to go. Jeff

The defrost doors do open fully. The A/C door has to be closed first before the defrost doors can open. Jeff

I think they should open a full 90 degrees. That linkage is a bit complicated and it may take the correct combination of vacuum pods to get it to work correctly. I'll try to take a look at one of my HVAC boxes in the next day or so and see if there's any trick to make it work. Jeff

cbarge beat me to it by a few seconds, but I'll post my answer anyways. Your existing radiator is either going to be repairable or need a new core. Most likely, it will need to be re-cored as the copper in these old radiators is getting pretty weak at such an old age. I've heard prices...

That's odd. Well, at least it's finally out, and since you are replacing the heater core, no harm done. Jeff

You're not missing anything. 4 screws, and the pipes should slide off. Mine came right off no problem.....36 years ago. I do remember having a hell of a time finding the correct size o-rings. Everything that the parts stores had was too thick. Finally got two from the owner of the gas...

I think if it mattered, Chrysler would have installed a connector that would only go on one way. Jeff

I bet that it doesn't matter which wire goes where. I can't help on this one. I've never even seen that device before. '68 must be the first year for it. Jeff

This is what happened to my New Yorker when I messed with that damn HVAC box. That was 1984, and the car hasn't been on the road since. Hope you have better luck with yours. :) Jeff

I think the leakage is only an issue on used clutches. I don't think a fresh one will leak if you set it down the wrong way, though it's probably not good to store one long term upside down. Jeff

It mounted nowhere. First year for the recovery tank was 1972, and only on certain engine packages, like police and trailer towing. It mounted next to the battery on a bracket that kind of went over the radiator. When it became standard in 1973, the receiver/drier was moved to the grill...

That is, if your store has them in stock. Looks like my store doesn't stock one of the common sizes anymore. They used to have a drawer full of them. Jeff

Simply unscrew the petcock body from the radiator tank. It's a pipe thread fitting. There are two common sizes. Once it's out, take it to your nearest Napa and match it up to a new one. Jeff

Yes there's only one switch and resistor block per car. Jeff

You did a better job of studying the diagram than I did. I missed the water valve on there. You don't actually "pull the dash" on a formal, as the dash frame is welded to the body. You should have good access to most of what you need to get to by removing the dash pad, which is pretty easy...