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Hi Julian, I don't think that it's supposed to have the yellow tint. After seeing such a high percentage of flawed NOS parts, I've come up with a theory that many non-mechanical factory replacement parts are ones that failed quality control inspection and deemed not good enough to go on a...

Also, I really don't think there are any "structural" concerns. The roof skin isn't structural on these cars. There's a very thick structural skeleton that runs around the perimeter of the roof and down behind the C pillars, and you don't have nearly enough rust where I would be worried about...

Considering the size of some of the holes, I think the best plan would be to use fiberglass cloth to cover them up. You can get a small kit at any auto parts store that will come with resin, hardener, and some cloth. This will give you the thinnest "covering" over the holes, and it's pretty...

This stuff is the bees knees for detail work on the dash: https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Paint-Brushes/Silver-Molotow-Liquid-Chrome---2mm/p/80858456 Really looks close to the factory chrome trim, though I don't know if it will eventually start to oxidize and get...

That's a very common rust area on slab sides. Seeing that you are in the northwest, it was most likely caused by acidic pine needles collecting in that area of the cowl. I would not consider it a structural issue. I would cut it out and patch it to stop it from progressing further. Jeff

The original Chrysler seal is pretty robust. The most common failure is the sealer between the gasket and the glass or the sealer between the gasket and the body. The slab sides usually don't rust bad around the windshield, unless someone has been in there before and gouged up the paint, or if...

Use Tiger Hair or Kitty Hair or All Metal, but not just regular plastic filler. Jeff

Quarter bulges in the circled areas are not unusual for these cars. Since your bulge is centered over the wheel, it's most likely warped from someone welding in a patch. Here's part of an article about it from Collectible Automobile: Jeff

Problems with the sheet metal around the fast top rear wheel openings are fairly common. It's a complicated panel and the scrapage rate for defective stampings was very high. Some bad panels made it through the system and onto cars. Jeff

I'll check into it as soon as I can. Might be a little while, since things are pretty busy for me right now. Jeff

I should be able to get you dimensions for where to drill the holes. There are two different roof racks. Which one do you have? Jeff

No I don't. I sold them to 67 ragtop. It's possible that I might be able to dig up another set, but I probably won't be able to look for them till Sunday. Jeff

In my opinion, base/clear is a waste of money and time on a solid color, especially white. Not using base/clear for a metallic would be crazy, unless you are really going for an original look to the car and want to get as close as possible to how it left the factory. Jeff

There will be a part number molded into the clip. Google the number. If something comes up, you've got a chance that you can buy what you need. If nothing comes up, you're basically out of luck. Then you'll have to make your own, or just glue the trim to the car. Sometimes you can find...

You can get access into the bottom of the cowl by removing the kick panels and the cowl vent doors. You may find that the leak is a dried out gasket on the door housing itself. There's plenty more areas that a fusey will leak through the cowl. There's a bunch of sealed seams in that area...

I think 1965 doors might be one year only. The contours and trim are the same for 1966 New Yorkers, but the lock hole may be different and the area where the inside door handle bolts on may be different. Before you leave, I would snap some photos of your door so you can compare, just in case...

I don't know what to tell you about the extra flap on the gasket. It seems like it would be impossible, but is there any chance that they installed the gasket inside-out? There should be a flap on the inside that hides the bolts that mount the dash. Otherwise, you may have to carefully trim...

You might want to check into this product. I've never tried it, but it looks promising. Cerakote - CERAKOTE CLEAR - ALUMINUM Jeff

I have a set that I can part with. $20 shipped to your door. Shoot me a PM if interested. Jeff

You may also want to get the wiring and relay for the hidden headlamp motor. Jeff