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Yeah, you should TDC the engine and then look to see if the rotor is pointing to the #1 tower on the cap. If it’s off by very much you’d then remove the water pump and housing so you can get to the timing cover and do a visual on the chain and gearset. Some local wizards here can give you...

Nylon tooth on timing gear broke perhaps and now it’s completely wrong on timing?? That could explain the back firing and cranking without catching .

I’ll check out the adjustment, thanks.

Adding a little info to this thread just "for the record" in case someone else experiences this problem. I pulled the plugs to give them a quick read and they were very black and sooty. I gave them a good clean with a wire brush and brake cleaner and reinstalled them. I then pulled the air...

I removed the fuel filler cap while this was happening with no change, so I don't believe it to be a vacuum or vapor lock issue. Thanks for the tip.

The engine restarts easily. I’ll double check the battery terminals and take the air cleaner off so I can observe the choke plate during the warm-up process, as well as the choke pull-off diaphragm. Thanks for the tips.

The tank filter is brand new, but the filter at the pump is maybe a year or two old. I’ll look at replacing that.

No, it’s happening about half warmed up, choke partially open.

The idle on my 66 Newport 383/2v gets slower and slower until it stalls. What do you think could cause this issue? Car ran fine when parked for the winter in November. Fuel in the tank and carb is non-ethanol 91 octane. Started it back up after sitting for three months, and now it doesn't...

For future viewers and searches, I got my “stuck” PCV valve holder off by gently pulling on the valve with one hand and striking the holder with a wooden mallet in the other. Took a couple of taps to break the gunk free but it then easily slid off. Percussive persuasion was the solution!

I run 91 ethanol-free with my 66 383 2V. No issues at all.

I've had the sending unit out of my 66 Newport twice in the last two months to replace the float and then the filter. I ran it down to about 1/4 tank of gas and then parked on an uphill slope so I didn't have to worry about gas leaking out while I removed the unit. No problems, plenty of room...

Took about 30 minutes with a tubing bender to make the new line. An experienced bender could have done it in 5 minutes….

Throw some STP Oil treatment in there and call it good. No need to panic.

No need, I've since sourced a Stromberg WWC for it and it runs like a champ now. Thanks.

Sounds like your rebuilder is Mopar Nick.

Photos would probably be very helpful when you get a chance.

UPDATE: spent the last few weeks driving very conservatively. Also adjusted the kickdown setting to be two turns more than stock for a little bit of preload as suggested by @CBODY67 and I netted 148 miles with 11.6 gallons, or 12.75 mpg. As soon as summer break kicks in, I'll take the SS...

Ok, I’ll try percussive persuasion.

Thanks. Not trying to hijack this thread, buy my PCV "assembly" won't come off either. The lock nut loosens, but the engine painted holder thing that the PCV valve lives is seems to be stuck to the valve cover. There are AC and heater hoses covering it up, and I can't seem to find a way to get...