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The grey stuff is the old undercoating, that chunk you flaked off after is rusty metal flaking off, I'd hit that whole area with a needler and clean it.

Was not 68 the transition year for the cruise control set-ups? The earlier version phased out for the newer system Welder Guy posted.

Getting to much noise from what?

Most mopar fender bolts are the 6025326 with the smaller captured washer. The larger captured washer bolt might be used at the front and rear corner attachment points, and perhaps down low at the bottom of the fender.

I have been using the Eastwood manifold paint for over 20 years...stuff really holds up well. Best results is to have your manifolds blasted so the surface is as clean as possible, then wipe with brake clean then apply the coating. They do smoke and have to cure once on the vehicle and it's...

I have found more times then not that the grease nipple is just broken off, and not actually the plugs. Looks great after all that pressure washing...I know how wet you can get that was why I suggested waiting for a nice warm day and just wearing safety glasses and a pair of shorts...;):lol:

Looking good! I'll take the period correct 70 Rims any day over the old stuff that was on the car! Pressure washer is probably your best bet at cleaning things up...wait for a nice warm day, put on some shorts and a pair of safety glasses and get under the car! I'd soak it really good first...

I have had California and Wolf car covers...both were good high quality covers. And regardless of what their advertising says they are not water proof, maybe for a brief shower and it dries up right away, but any long term rain and moisture will bleed through the cover and onto the car.

Mine leak as well and I've wondered about those seals...Thanks for the heads up Ross.:thumbsup:

It is usually in the lower section of the column, so either where you have it placed, or below the turn signal assembly. If you can't get the clip in try installing the steering wheel nut with a washer and pull up on the center shaft, there should be some play in the steering couplers.

Not sure hot glue will adhere to a clear coat paint? I like your idea but would suggest using some thin 3M trim adhesive to secure the clips in place.

I have no idea on how to remove that, never worked on a cruise control 73 before, but it looks like you might be able to pop the center U-shaped piece up with a pick maybe?

I hear ya...fired up the wagon for the first time in almost 2 years last summer and drove it around the block, didn't realize how much I missed the sound and feel of a big block!

The wagon just gets more and more beautiful as the trim and shiny bits go back on....more of these for Ya'....:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

As Lea mentioned the shunt is the best way to alleviate the potential for disaster, but it will also mean that your AMP gauge no longer register an accurate reading....but who these days actually watches or cares about the AMP gauge really. ;)

I'll warn you now the lower linkage can be a real bear to get the geometry of the rods correct and the location of the transmission gear selector to line up with the column or console indicator. Might see like the costs are silly until you sink countless hours of hair pulling and fabrication...

I have done as the others a suggested and just put a bolt in each side with some high temp RTV in the holes first and around the bolts before tightening them up. Using stover nuts is also a good idea since they are a mechanical lock nut and their locking ability will not be compromised by the heat.

For my .02 cents Canadian I will say paint the inner fenders, a good primer and then some farmer/tractor supply house black paint will stand up great. IMO powder coating just doesn't look the same to me and it scratches up just the same as paint and is a heck of a lot tougher to "touch up" then...

The old plastic/rubber plugs shrink and warp over the decades from heat and oil so your problem is not uncommon. As for length of the connections on the switch itself I don't think a couple mm's will make that much of a difference. You can purchase a new plug with wiring, either after market...

Since the fender attaches to the top of the rad support, so unless you lower the rad support on that one side I can't see how else to lower that fender a little bit.