1965 Chrysler 300 frame

mychrysler

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I’m working in my 1965 and need to replace about 8” of driver side frame due to rust. I already cutted this piece but I measured the thickness and is giving me a gauge 15 metal. Does somebody knows if this is the right thickness or my frame has lost due to the rust. Also what metal was originally used?
 
I’m working in my 1965 and need to replace about 8” of driver side frame due to rust. I already cutted this piece but I measured the thickness and is giving me a gauge 15 metal. Does somebody knows if this is the right thickness or my frame has lost due to the rust. Also what metal was originally used?

The frame rails are designed to have some flex built into them so that they do not crack. Welding adds a stress point to the frame. Usually better to replace the stub if the rusted part of the frame is an attachment point or close to the cross member or steering gear. Which part of the frame are you trying to splice?

Dave
 
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Its the one welded to the crossmember that hold the transmission mount, driver side.
 
O.K.
I guess most of you Fellas would have realised by now that I love the sound of my own Typing.
However a short story that may be of Interest. A friend of mine many years ago used to buy Damaged cars at Auction, Repair & Sell.
Usually mostly minor - medium panel damage. He was a Good ALL Round Mechanic, Panel Beater & Spray Painter.
One day he bought a Holden 1 Tonner which was essentially a Slightly Upgraded Utility with a Cab Chassis rather than Monocoque construction (Nothing like an U.S. F100 Pick up, much smaller)
It had a bent chassis, Piece of Cake was his reply when I questioned his Judgement in buying.
Well, he bolted the Vehicle down & used a Trolley Jack to straighten the bent chassis, everything looked fine.
When he came out the next morning the Chassis has returned to it's "Bent" shape.
So he jacked it again & left it for a few days, even went a little further than needed.
Same result!
Decided to weld a couple of Plates to either side of the Chassis.
O.K. I'll stop there.
A little advice, Unless you know Exactly what you are doing. leave ALL chassis Work (Especially Welding) to the Experts.
It may Look right, It may work right, But then you are unfortunate enough to have an Accident and that Component you repaired FAILS.
Wrote off a Mustang at 60 M.P.H. back in the early 70s because we had Welded Front End Components for the R.H.D. Conversion.
We all survived Fortunately, But the Mustang didn't look at all Pretty Parked on it's Roof. Grateful it wasn't a Convertible.
Keep in mind that the Car you repair will more than likely be carrying the People you hold most dear in this Life.
There are a number of things I will not skimp on.
One is Tyres, another is Brakes. had the experience of getting halfway down a Mountain and every time I put my foot on the Brakes the car went Faster.
It WASN'T Funny at the time. The Disc Pads were a Cheaper Set but had been Fine around town, No Problems at all, But on a long trip & then a Steep Mountain they just didn't Hold Up. When I had my Mechanic replace the Front Pads I made sure he destroyed the old ones.
I'm as Big a Tight Fist as Anyone BUT I have learned: Somethings you don't Shave!
 
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