WANTED 1970 pin type c body calipers wanted

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Mike Elenbaas

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Hello all,

I'm looking for a set of pin type single piston c body brake calipers for my disc brake conversion. I purchased a set of spindles and brackets from a 1970 Fury and have been able to get everything needed other that the calipers. Thanks!


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Is this the one you need?

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These are for a '70 Dodge Monaco/Polara. Not sure what car you want them for. They are Kelsey Hayes single piston 2.75" pin type calipers for the big 11.75" rotors. Seems KH has at least a couple different casting types of these calipers with different bleed/inlet port locations, but are otherwise the same mounting wise. From your photo, these look to be what you want.

Autozone part numbers C170 & C171
 
Yep, they come up as the same for '70 Plymouth Fury as well. C170 and C171 at Autozone.
 
Is there a equivalent P/N for Advanced AutoParts instead of AutoZone? Says that the ones near me don't have local pickup.

I'm not actually sure if there's a difference among the Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler calipers. I THINK the A and B-Body calipers are actually slightly different than the C-Body ones, but if that makes any real difference I'm not sure myself.
 
I can confirm that the C-Body rotors and calipers are slightly larger. I have a B body caliper of the same type and it will bolt up but the extra thickness of the rotor does not leave enough room for the break pads. The part numbers for the larger C-Body calipers at AutoZone are C509 and C508 and those are unavailable unfortunately. I'm thinking I will have to find a set to rebuild if I want to have it wrapped up in time for spring.

Thanks!
 
Right:
Cardone 18-4031
ABSCO
ER200
AUTOLINE PRODUCTS LTD
1509
AUTOZONE/AUTOLINE
1509
AUTOZONE/BRAKEWARE-BENDIX
R55106
AUTOZONE/BRAKEWARE-BENDIX
SL55106
BENDIX
SL55106
BENDIX
R55106
DNS ARMATURES
SC0216
DNS ARMATURES
C0216
DU-SO BRAKES
ER200
FEDERATED CALIPERS
10-1015S
NUGEON (OLD)
22-17621R
PERFECT STOP CALIPERS
10-1015S
RAYBESTOS UNBRANDED
FRC4061
TRUSTAR
11-1015
UNDERCAR EXPRESS FRICTION READY
10-1015S
UNDERCAR EXPRESS LOADED
10-1015S
WAGNER BRAKE
CR76791
 
Left
Cardone 18-4032
ABSCO
ER201
AUTOLINE PRODUCTS LTD
1508
AUTOZONE/AUTOLINE
1508
AUTOZONE/BRAKEWARE-BENDIX
R55107
AUTOZONE/BRAKEWARE-BENDIX
SL55107
BENDIX
SL55107
BENDIX
R55107
DNS ARMATURES
SC0215
DNS ARMATURES
C0215
DU-SO BRAKES
ER201
FEDERATED CALIPERS
10-1014S
NUGEON (OLD)
22-17621L
PERFECT STOP CALIPERS
10-1014S
RAYBESTOS UNBRANDED
FRC4062
TRUSTAR
11-1014
UNDERCAR EXPRESS FRICTION READY
10-1014S
UNDERCAR EXPRESS LOADED
10-1014S
WAGNER BRAKE
CR76790
 
Look up "the ram man" or call him at (817) 429-0105

He doesn't have any listed on his site but when I was looking they had some they needed to be rebuilt or he could rebuild mine. I ended up rebuilding my own.

MONC440
 
I already have a set of seals and pistons, so I may just end up rebuilding mine as well. I bought a grease gun just for the purpose, anyways.

I was wondering if it would be as easy as slapping the new parts in, or if I would need to hone the cylinder bore itself (or have a machine shop do it) - the FSM does make mention of doing that before putting the seals and pistons in.
 
Unless the bore is damaged you just need to clean them. I used a paddle wheel on a drill to clean mine up.

The Ram man has good videos on YouTube on the assembly.
 
What's the greasegun for in rebuilding calipers?
I tried to use the air-gun trick on mine at 150 PSI and it was a no-go with the caliper pistons - the grease gun is rated at 7500 PSI. I doubt I would've been able to use the air gun on these calipers anyways, I have seen them used on YT but those calipers are way smaller (probably far less pressure going to them than these - this is a 2.5 to 2.75 inch bore we're talking about here).
 
I tried to use the air-gun trick on mine at 150 PSI and it was a no-go with the caliper pistons - the grease gun is rated at 7500 PSI. I doubt I would've been able to use the air gun on these calipers anyways, I have seen them used on YT but those calipers are way smaller (probably far less pressure going to them than these - this is a 2.5 to 2.75 inch bore we're talking about here).
The grease gun works but it is messy and clean up sucks. The way I was taught to remove pistons is leave one caliper installed and remove the other one from the rotor but keep it attached to the brake line. Pump the brake pedal once and check the movement of the piston, repeat this until the piston is almost all the way out. On the big C-body calipers it usually takes 5 or 6 pumps of the brake pedal. Then block or clamp that piston so it can't move and remove the other caliper and repeat the process. Remove both from the brake lines and the pistons should remove easily with compressed air or even just pulling on it with some pliers.
 
I was wondering because of the old rule to keep petroleum-based material out of hte braking system. I realizethe parts would be cleaned thoroughly afterward, but it still surprised me to read that.
I tried to use the air-gun trick on mine at 150 PSI and it was a no-go with the caliper pistons - the grease gun is rated at 7500 PSI. I doubt I would've been able to use the air gun on these calipers anyways, I have seen them used on YT but those calipers are way smaller (probably far less pressure going to them than these - this is a 2.5 to 2.75 inch bore we're talking about here).
Keep in mind that air pressure on a larger piston results in larger force if the pressure is the same. The difference in area/bore volume between 2 different pistons is small vs the amount of air in your compressor's tank, so you should see similar pressure on the piston regardless of caliper/piston.

The area increases with a squared factor, whereas the circumference increases linearly. Therefore, the area (force) on a larger piston is increasing more than the resistance (rust area) that has seized the piston. So all else reasonably similar, I believe a larger piston should be easier to remove with same pressure.
 
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