1974 Newport build in Estonia

[UMNewPort74]

Hi,

As told I should start new thread, and under the build thread, instead of Welcome thread.
Latest updates on the build:
Been fooling around with rust converter to stop the rust evolution - in our latitude we need to guard all the metal parts against mother nature.
Paint has found it's way to of some essentials that need to go back to car with rear axel.

Sad news came from my parts shop that they cannot supply the slip yoke for my car. SO I NEED ONE ?

Also been looking for the spark, when I bought it it was running quite OK - then I put it on trailer and at home no go...
Been now cleaning and sorting out the electric. Found some schematics from google and trying to figure out the additions and inventions done over the years.
Now everything is cleared changed but still no go.

Got the rear axel mounts welded to right place, oil with "additions" trained out from there. All metal parts are ok. Made the teeth test and the wear seems ok.
Murdered some rust and got the paint on there.

 

[cuda hunter]

Thanks for posting! I'll watch along with your build.

 

[commando1]

You're doing all this in Estonia?

 

[1970FuryConv]

Hi,

Also been looking for the spark, when I bought it it was running quite OK - then I put it on trailer and at home no go...
Been now cleaning and sorting out the electric. Found some schematics from google and trying to figure out the additions and inventions done over the years.
Now everything is cleared changed but still no go.

Voltage at coil primary?
Intermittent ground at coil negative?
Voltage at distributor?
Wire continuity from ECU to all devices?
If you have no spark at coil secondary, there are a lot of things to check

 

[UMNewPort74]

Was on vacation for 3 weeks, away from home so not much is done. But never the less.
Been going around the wire harness under the dash. Dash lower part needs good rust removal and paint.
As I managed to loose my phone during the vacation not much pictures are available.
Interior is now been stripped and oh that brought much more things to the to do list
Started to restore the steering wheel wooden parts and metal. During the vacation time decided that we go tan/golden - black with interior.

The rear axle found it's way back under the car in rightful position. Rear breaks need's assembly - repair kit arrived.
Of course still missing the slip yoke. And rear axel oil

From good news department - It's alive now. After changing coil and the distributor cap, magnet pick up cleaning and changing some wires along the way. Nothing...
Remark : You do know that magnetic pick up needs a clamp to fix to the bottom plate in distributor ? And as far as I searched the clamp is not sold separately neither it came with magnetic pick up assembly. Buying new distributor for sake of clamp in 250€ seemed a little too much. Had to make one from hacksaw blade - works great - so far .
Been studying the Chrysler Service manual - so everything was as it should. Made extra tinned copper earthing from block to firewall. Nothing...
Then it was left with either ballast or ECU. Ballast worked just fine and as it should - voltmeter helped there.

With ECU... the coil/pick up test showed just very small spark and not very constantly so it must be ECU.
First look it seemed fine, quite new also claimed by previous owner that it was changed lately. Yes it's a made in China version.
Have you ever wondered what is inside the ECU? Specially made in china versions - there must have been how to make our production cheaper competition in that factory there.

The ECU block was half way filled with sand - and on top(in the back) it was covered/filled with black resin. So it looks nice and professional. As a result you cheapskate half the resin!
In my case the edge of the resin had came loose from metal and there was a crack along the edge. In our climate the dry sand becomes wet sand.
Wet sand around mighty 70s electronics is not a good news. So I cleaned this up dried with heat gun getting all the sand out. In the edge if the circuit board there was 1 solder oxidized /loose (the earth) Soldering this down and cleaning the board with some contact cleaner to get rid of the sand and other "****".
Two bolts down - plug in the plug and it was a half turn start
So you know with rainy weather chinese ECU blocks might become dream sandbox for kids - wet sand is the best I remember

More pictures when I get my phone back.