68 Newport alignment specs - question

[Mike McGuire]

Hello C body people!

I have a 68 Newport convertible, (with 15" rims not the stock 14").
I have the skosh chart and as a reference it lists
driving style Camber Caster
Granny -.25 degrees +1.5 degrees
typ Perf street -.5 degrees +2.5 degrees
max perf street -.75 to 1.0 +2.5 to 3.5

with toe in for all 3 being the same at 1/16 to 1/8"

(The Skosk table lists "A, B, E, and R bodies", but not C bodies)

Can someone confirm this is probably close enough for cruising (occasionally spirited) intentions?
Or, if there is a better table for C bodies....?

Thanks & Happy Motoring,
Mike

 

[CBODY67]

Seems like the normal power steering caster is +3/4 degrees. Why not make it a normal 1.0 degree and possibly add another .25 degree for road crown, on the lh side only.

Camber can be close to zero, with possibly another 1/4 degree to compensate for the driver's weight.

Toe-in should be at the min spec, even for bias-ply tires, as that is what the specs were designed for.

Factory power disc brake cars had 15" wheels from the factory. No difference in alignment specs for them.

To me, the simple/"flat rate" way to do it can be . . .
Max caster, might increase steering effort a bit (but everything usually has power steering anyway), but can aid straight-line tracking.
Zero camber, to equalize tire tread wear, side to side, but might add .25 degrees to the lh side only.
Minimize toe-in, with radials being very close to "zero" inches or degrees, especially on the knobbier-tread all season radials. Rotate as needed, mileage intervals for this can vary.

For a car driven at normal Interstate speeds, 30psi minimum in all tires. I then add 2psi more in the front (the heavier end of the car), which increases steering response a bit plus no worries about tire wear from under or over-inflation pressures. I prototyped that orientation on our '66 Newport Town Sedan back in the later 1960s and it has worked well for me, although it is not what the factory recommends. IF more luggage in the trunk or similar, more air is needed in the rear and front, thou. IF using tires with a tread narrower than the rim width, add 2psi more to ensure all of the tread hits the ground evenly, side to side. Like using a P215/75x15 tire on a 7" wide wheel.

Of course, you can always check the FSM at www.mymopar.com in the front section and "Specs" (front suspension section in the later manuals) for alignment specs.

DO look at the tires periodically, to look for uneven tread wear and CHECK cold inflation pressures at least every 6 months, or when the seasons change.

For BEST ride and handling, the car needs to be at "Factory Ride Height", front and rear, with the rocker panel being parallel to the road surface. NO "droop" in the front.

Just my experiences. YMMV
CBODY67

 

[Mike McGuire]

Thanks CBODY67!

-mm