69 fury ac heater valve

[69mopar man]

Does anyone know where the vacuum line to ac heater valve goes to ? I tracked it under dash and there’s no vacuum , I’m not getting any heat, both heater hoses are cold, to and from the valve, any ideas? I don’t know why I’m not getting vacumn , any help would be very much appreciated, thanks

 

[CBODY67]

I believe that the pictured valve is an aftermarket replacement for the orig OEM phenolic/plastic/metal water valve. The vac line comes from the "Heat" lever's valve, which is a variable vac bleed, if it's like my '70 Monaco with factory a/c. On my '70 Monaco, I suspect it is a bit different in cosmetics than on your '69 Fury, but I suspect the mode of operation is the same.

FWIW, the OEM water valve has a larger vac reservoir on it, compared to the longer-lasting aftermarket valves. What I noticed with the aftermarket valve is that at certain vac levels and slide lever positions, the valve on the instrument panel would buzz a bit. Change the slide lever slightly and it would go away, or it might get louder. Kind of amusing after I figured out what was going on!

The supply line from the intake manifold or power brake booster vac hose connection will pass through the cowl and into the passenger compartment, then over to the hvac control switch unit. Usually, if there is no vac to the main switch, fan output will be from the defroster vents and the floor heat vent, at the same time, possibly.

For testing purposes, you can run a small vac line directly from a manifold vac source to the water valve itself. IF you then get heat inside the car, you know the valve is working and then just need to diagnose why no vac to the water valve from inside the car.

Hope this might help,
CBODY67

 

[69mopar man]

So if the heater valve doesn’t work and I have to replace it , you’re saying this larger one works better, thanks for your help

 

[3175375]

So if the heater valve doesn’t work and I have to replace it , you’re saying this larger one works better, thanks for your help

View attachment 529439

That’s the one!

 

[1971 300 Alvah]

I bought probably 2 or 3 NOS original plastic heater bypass valves... every one of them leaked. Switched to the metal ones, now my car doesn't overheat.

 

[CBODY67]

There's a reason the metal aftermarket valves exist. Once I figured out the buzzing issue, I just learned to reach over and move the heat slide a bit so it would stop the sound.