1975.Imperial
Member
Hello all, all 4 of my '75 Imperial's brakes are dragging and I need some help troubleshooting before I spend even more money on this problem. Please keep in mind that this is my first project vehicle and that I'm only 19 so this is a learning experience for me, I'm also currently at school and don't have regular access to my car so I might take a while to test anything on it.
Like I said, all 4 corners are sticking on, making it very difficult to turn the wheels by hand, after a while, they do become pretty easy to turn. This has been happening since I owned the car, even when it had its original disc rears. The car can go and stop under its own power. So far, I've replaced front callipers, pads, and soft lines, as well as rear wheel cylinders, hardware, shoes, and soft line. Now I'm thinking that the problem's either in the master cylinder or the proportioning valve. While I was bleeding the brakes there was a noticeable sucking force from the master cylinder when the pedal was released which lead me to believe that it was good, I'm however not sure how strong that force should be. I've kept the stock, 4-wheel disc, proportioning valve so I'm not sure if that would potentially cause a problem, I'd imagine that if it did it'd only cause a problem for either the fronts or the rears, not both. I've also kept the stock master and booster, I've ordered a new New Yorker master but it uses 4 studs to mount to the booster whereas my current booster is only a 2 stud for the unique Imperial master.
Right now I see myself having to either find a used brake booster or proportioning valve from a drum-rear Chrysler, which leads me to another question, are all drum-rear boosters the same from '74-'78? Rock auto, for example, lists their (discontinued) booster as exclusive for '74/'75, and '76-'78 is not on their compatibility list.
Thank you all in advance, and again, I'm coming into this with no real-world experience except for a degree from the University of Youtube so any insight is appreciated
Like I said, all 4 corners are sticking on, making it very difficult to turn the wheels by hand, after a while, they do become pretty easy to turn. This has been happening since I owned the car, even when it had its original disc rears. The car can go and stop under its own power. So far, I've replaced front callipers, pads, and soft lines, as well as rear wheel cylinders, hardware, shoes, and soft line. Now I'm thinking that the problem's either in the master cylinder or the proportioning valve. While I was bleeding the brakes there was a noticeable sucking force from the master cylinder when the pedal was released which lead me to believe that it was good, I'm however not sure how strong that force should be. I've kept the stock, 4-wheel disc, proportioning valve so I'm not sure if that would potentially cause a problem, I'd imagine that if it did it'd only cause a problem for either the fronts or the rears, not both. I've also kept the stock master and booster, I've ordered a new New Yorker master but it uses 4 studs to mount to the booster whereas my current booster is only a 2 stud for the unique Imperial master.
Right now I see myself having to either find a used brake booster or proportioning valve from a drum-rear Chrysler, which leads me to another question, are all drum-rear boosters the same from '74-'78? Rock auto, for example, lists their (discontinued) booster as exclusive for '74/'75, and '76-'78 is not on their compatibility list.
Thank you all in advance, and again, I'm coming into this with no real-world experience except for a degree from the University of Youtube so any insight is appreciated
