Looking for 4spd information.

[Wollfen]

Hey all,
I was wondering if anyone had some pics of the zbar and zbar chassis mount used in the cbody fuselage cars. Say 1969 to 71. I do see parts from time to time but not having physically seen one I would like something to identify the bits by. I think the mounts are also the same for three speed cars too? Please let me know if you can help. Thanks in advance!

 

[commando1]

The z-bar for the 69+ cars would have been for the 3 speed only.
Without a Fusie book, I can't say if the /6, the SB, and the BB bell housings used different z-bars.
Also, in the 65-68 cars, the 3 spd and 4 spd z-bars were different.
Lastly, to make this topic a total flustercluck, different BB bell housings mounted the z-bar at the bell housing 2 or 3 different ways.
Now, with all that said, which is of little to no help to you in answering your question, I was able to dig this up. Best I can do until somebody can do better.

 

[Wollfen]

Thanks for the info Stan, I suspected i may have to buy a b-body zbar and convert to c-body use but figured i would see what one might look like first.

 

[commando1]

Myself, that is what I would do.
It's not difficult.
First you simply have to determine if you have to shorten it or lengthen it. It's basically a tube so that is easy.
Then you need to determine how many degrees one arm is in relationship to the other to make sure the distance you depress the clutch pedal will fully move the clutch fork.
How's your trigonometry? lol

 

[67-Fury]

If I ever Do a 4-Speed conversion, I will be PMing the living CRAP out of Stan.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

If you make your own I would use hiem ends on the rod ends, 3 of them the action will be smooth and effortless. IMO

 

[Wollfen]

Myself, that is what I would do.
It's not difficult.
First you simply have to determine if you have to shorten it or lengthen it. It's basically a tube so that is easy.
Then you need to determine how many degrees one arm is in relationship to the other to make sure the distance you depress the clutch pedal will fully move the clutch fork.
How's your trigonometry? lol

My trigonometry works real well, I stick my tongue out the side of my mouth, lift my thumb up and squint one eye, when it looks right i weld!

 

[Wollfen]

If you make your own I would use hiem ends on the rod ends, 3 of them the action will be smooth and effortless. IMO

Heim ends? I'm curious.

 

[commando1]

Hmmm.... Adjustable.
Dave, I like that. Wish I had thought of it.

 

[Wollfen]

Im wondering if fitting a hydraulic kit would simply be easier?

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I can get them RH or LH at the hardware store by my house but they don't have the LH threaded rod.

 

[commando1]

Im wondering if fitting a hydraulic kit would simply be easier?

Been there. Done that.
I can NOT recommend a hydraulic throw out bearing on an A833. I'll save the why's for anybody that insists on doing it.
A hydraulic master and slave with the traditional fork/throw out bearing is viable but a tad complicated. I had a how-to on that in another forum.



Personally, I would consider this:
http://www.proformancepowertrain.com/mopar/transmissions/clutch-link-kit.html#Mechanical

Not perfect but it looks like it's adaptable to possibly work in a C.

 

[Wollfen]

I will have a look at the other thread regarding the hydraulic/mechanical clutch fork hybrid setup.