looking for keyed hot during both run and start mode

The Mechanic

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Hello to fellow c body folks,

I am installing a Holley sniper 2 in my 1967 Dodge Polara, and per the instructions I need to hook up a keyed power source that is hot during both the "run" keyed position and the "start" keyed position. I thought it was " ignition 1" On my particular car I used the ohm meter and checked from the red "batt" terminal to the "ignition 1" terminal on my ignition switch, then turned the key from "run" to "start" position. I had readings in the run position but, lost them when I turned the key to start position. I then tested from the "batt" terminal to the "ignition 2" terminal and it had readings only in the start position but not the run position. Any wisdom from the electrical gurus on this would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks in advance!
 
I think you put Ign. 1 and 2 together from what I have read.
 
What about a feed wire to the ballast resistor?

JUST a curious thought.

CBODY67
 
no, ballast resistor is bypassed during cranking...idk if jumping 1&2 together would bypass ballast resistor permanently...
 
Last edited:
As far as I know the Holley Sniper does not use the ballast resistor so you need to tie Ign 1 & 2 (start & run) together to make the system work.
 
As far as I know the Holley Sniper does not use the ballast resistor so you need to tie Ign 1 & 2 (start & run) together to make the system work.
Thanks to everyone who chimed in on this!! To the comment above... I am planning on using a stock coil, with mopar electronic ignition, so I am not sure if tying ignition 1 and 2 together will work. I know a lot of people use Holleys ignition system, or a MSD box with their EFI, but Im not going to change ignition systems right now, so I will be using the ballast resistor for my ignition. I really appreciate everyones help with this dilema!
 
You should be able to tie both ign1 and 2 together.

However, if you want, you could run a wire from each through a diode to produce the signal that you are looking for.
Kinda like this:

IMG_5716.jpeg
 
I did something very similar many years ago with the ignition on a Porsche 944. I needed a hot wire in both start and run, but nothing in the fuse box gave me that. I used two relays. Battery to terminal 30 on both. Terminal 87 on both tied together. Both terminal 86 to ground. Terminal 85 on one went to a hot in start, on the other went to a hot in run. May not have been the best solution, but it worked a lot better than a toggle switch to the coil. The two wires from terminal 87 that were tied together went straight to the coil. Had to edit because I realized I didn't clarify where the last wire went
 
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