Looking to restore my 1972 Dodge Polara Custom

[Polara-Star]

i have a 1972 Polara i am increasingly desperate to find a trustworthy shop to work with me to restore. i live in Vermont, and there are not many shops who are capable of this kind of work. i'd like to hear from some of you who may have knowledge of someone in the northeast i should contact. The car is in decent condition, i 'rescued' it from someone who removed all the trim and was ready to paint it up like the Bluesmobile and use at as a taxi. My idea is to restore it to original, but augment the engine and trans and go to a road gear as if it was done by someone back in the day to load up a certain deleterious beverage distilled in the hills. The fender tag reads as follows: E57 360 2-v, D34 trans, EA9 Charcoal Poly ext, MX49 trim, TX9 black int door frames, V1x black vinyl top (which is missing, and exterior is in primer), H51 A/c (some hammerhead sliced off the hard lines flush with the firewall, and the compressor is also MIA), L31 hood/fender mounted turn signals, L31 cornering lamps, M25 wide sill moldings, M26 wheel lip moldings, N88 auto speed control, R21 am/fm radio, V5X body side stripes black, Y26 26" radiator (because A/C). As far as my limited knowledge can tell, all the trim is boxed up and is present in the car. i have not found serious evidence of rust issues or mud on the body panels, what research i can do says this was a Florida car and has not spent much time on the road up here. Build date is April '72 built in the Newark, DE plant. Any help or advice would be MUCH appreciated. So far, i have built a budget that may be in excess of what the finished product would realistically be worth, but this only about a car i can enjoy the rest of my time here not something to flip.

Thanks in advance
Jeremy

 

[CBODY67]

"Restorations" CAN become a big money pit, if you are not careful. Choosing the right shop to do the work can help with this or "go the other way".

Work on the mechanicals first. With the underhood a/c items missing, it could be a good candidate for a Sanden compressor upgrade, but using as much of the orig stuff (from salvage yards, possibly) as possible. There are a few places that sell new a/c condensers which are OEM replacements, just as there are many which sell "mass flow" condensers for R-134a freon, too. Look at the Thread which TxDon did on his changeover on his '66 Monaco wagon, for sourcing of those underhood items.

The "beverage cars" has reinforced suspensions so they did not look like they were hauling anything, when they were. Something else to research.

Do as MUCH work as you can, which might save money later on as you did the work rather than somebody else. Which will also result in you learning more about the car, too.

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress,
CBODY67

 

[ayilar]

Very belated welcome to the board -- I just found the thread you started about DM41K2F234534 back in 2016.

I own a 1971 Monaco 2dr and three 1970 Polara convertibles, so I have an idea about what the costs are that you may encounter. I am very lucky to have found two members to help me bring those cars back on the road.

Closest to your situation may be that of the '71 Dodge that I call Medina. Have a look at the thread I have set up to document her restoration and the choices I have made, and hopefully you'll get useful info there. Feel free to post specific questions for me here or via PM.

@1970FuryConv is currently restoring a 1973 Monaco 2dr, and he documents extensively what he does in this thread (you seem to have found it already!).

 

[Polara-Star]

i did find it, and thank you. My problem is i have nowhere to work on this car, i don't even have a good place to store it, it's been in the elements as i've been saving up. i've tried and largely failed to keep the mice out..... i have some knowledge as to mechanicals, etc. just not the source of parts or the proper venue in which to work on it. As to underneath, i have found a good source for bushings, springs etc in PA who outfitted me when i refreshed the underside of my B-body Cordoba. Bushings, springs, everything i needed to update a 50K original that spent a lot of time sitting. As busy as i am, i'm willing to invest if i can find an outfit that is capable of doing the work. i was involved with the restoration of a 1977 Gran Fury NYS police interceptor back at the end of the 80s, so i have some knowledge, just not the place or the time to do it again.... Meantime gonna check out the other thread regarding Medina

 

[Polara-Star]

Also, i should mention.... i have a friend up here who has a property relatively full of cars. Practically none are restorable, they've been sitting since the 80s, but parts like switches, controls, trim pieces, a few hubcaps and exterior parts are salvagable. Mostly A and C body cars. He's under pressure fom the state to eliminate the collection, so he's motivated to get rid of things.

 

[CBODY67]

Might investigate a mini-warehouse style storage facility to keep the car in. Unfortunately, they might be close to $150.00/month or so. Might be a little cramped, but out of the weather and hopefully secure.

Your friend's place, although technically "a salvage yard", could also be termed "a public nuisance" as (as you know) vermin can inhabit the "shelters" and multiply. Which puts it in the area of "code enforcement".

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[1970FuryConv]

Hi Jeremy,
Welcome!
What rust does it have?
How are the front and rear subframes? Ben

 

[Polara-Star]

Very little rust, i see little evidence of mud. Car is in primer. Will need all bushings, but subframes are decent. Car spent much of its time in Florida, according to what i've been able to research.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Very little rust, i see little evidence of mud. Car is in primer. Will need all bushings, but subframes are decent. Car spent much of its time in Florida, according to what i've been able to research.

that’s great news about the frames and overall body condition!

I am having the same trouble in Virginia finding body shops that will help. I think rust work and metal body repair are dying arts. Also the insurance jobs go ahead of your restoration project. Just when your car gets to start being worked on, an insurance job comes in, and they shift attention to that immediately, and your car goes to the back of the line.

I have no knowledge of body shops in the Northeast, I hope someone else can help you. Ben

 

[CBODY67]

Rather than talking "restoration" to ANY body shop, perhaps try to get smaller segments done as a normal job, which they can do quickly and easily (which means CASH FLOW to them), "in and out" like a bent fender job, for example. BUT also let them know that you desire work just as good as they'd do on a newer car, as to "OEM quality fit and finish". You might talk to them about the "segment" orientation, rather than "all at once", to see if that might work for them, too. This way, you might fill in some of their slow gaps in work, too. PROVIDED you can have a little notice as to when they might want you to bring it in for a segment of work.

This is ALSO contingent in you liking the first work they do and desire in letting them do the rest of it.

BUT in the body shop business, they never know what might come up the driveway, so some flexibility might be needed.

Over the years, we've had body shop customers who did not take in any "hard-hit" jobs, rather just jobs they could have complete within one week, rather than jobs which took longer. They did well in that orientation until they got a laser-align frame machine and an employee who knew how to run it. THEN their normal job still took no more than 2 weeks to get out, from start to finish.

The way I look at things "paint is paint", "labor is labor" . . . whether on a '72 or '02 model of vehicle. Whether single-stage acrylic enamel or basecoat/clearcoat acrylic enamel, although BC/CC is what everything comes with now, so they should be good with getting a current-OEM level result. In the current world, parts snags can happen on '02s as well as '22s, but having all of the parts you need just makes things work better . . . before the work starts.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[Polara-Star]

Appreciate your thoughts. i have looked at that possibility, but for what i want to ultimately accomplish such a process would require duplication of some aspects of the work (for instance the engine work will require removal, which is when bodywork/paint in the engine bay/wiring etc. should take place, but how do i get the car there without the engine in?) Part of my problem is where i live is so rural, i'm 30 min to 60+ minutes from ANYWHERE much less anyone good enough to do quality work. Lot of little fly-by-nights around here, unfortunately.

 

[polaratherapy]

You mentioned critters, you may want to go out and get a couple of boxes of Bounce fabric softener.
Spread them all over inside the car, for some reason the critters don't like it much.

 

[Polara-Star]

Actually, i've done that. i have to do that every year when i put the Cordoba in storage, too. i should buy stock in Bounce lol.... But with the Polara outside, it's a constant war. i'm holding my own, but i'm not winning....

 

[polaratherapy]

Maybe you can find someone up your way willing to rent out their private garage so you won't have to pay the going rate of a storage space plus it would probably have hydro. Maybe put a WANTED add in the local paper, I know it's old school but the old folks still read the local papers and who know you may even find someone to help you. As I'm a farmer in the middle of no where too we get a couple of small publications and a bunch of farming forums loaded with wanted adds.
It might be worth a try!

 

[polaratherapy]

Maybe a little work in exchange for some garage space!!
I used to approach farmers and exchange a bit of work for hunting access, it works, just give it a chance, can't hurt to ask. I've built life long relationships doing just that.

 

[Polara-Star]

Good ideas, thank you. Actually there is a lot of barn space around here, but again with the critter problems.... at least it would be inside. If i can find a shop to take on my project, though, i could maybe sell the Cordoba and work toward getting the Polara on the road and trade the storage space..... If not, i'm eyeballing a 1963 New Yorker that isn't perfect, but is a running survivor car. More on that as events warrant.

 

[polaratherapy]

Good ideas, thank you. Actually there is a lot of barn space around here, but again with the critter problems.... at least it would be inside. If i can find a shop to take on my project, though, i could maybe sell the Cordoba and work toward getting the Polara on the road and trade the storage space..... If not, i'm eyeballing a 1963 New Yorker that isn't perfect, but is a running survivor car. More on that as events warrant.

Folks are nice in Vermont, of course I tried this strategy in Canada and it may be different in the States.
You may end up talking to some oldtimer who might just know somebody who knows somebody.
If you ever watch Counts Kustoms, Danny does it all the time in Vegas, knocking on doors.
Good luck!

 

[Polara-Star]

Yes, i enjoy that show.... actually, if i could afford to get it out there, i think Danny would enjoy doing the build. It's right up his alley... i lived in Vegas for a time on 2 different contracts i did. Done a lot of talking to all and sundry around here, but folks are aging out and don't want to take on a new project, unfortunately. But i have gotten to look at some really great cars hiding out in small corners.....

 

[polaratherapy]

Yes, i enjoy that show.... actually, if i could afford to get it out there, i think Danny would enjoy doing the build. It's right up his alley... i lived in Vegas for a time on 2 different contracts i did. Done a lot of talking to all and sundry around here, but folks are aging out and don't want to take on a new project, unfortunately. But i have gotten to look at some really great cars hiding out in small corners.....

Don't give up, give it time , all the best!

PT