Need help. Intermediate shaft not budging?

[James Romano]

So the plan for my two days off was to pull my well leaking oil pump, re-seal and install with a new gasket. I watched some videos, read what I could in the service manual, and off I went. Went smoothly. No issues.

Put everything back together, pump went right in with some wiggling and cursing. But it's all in and tight.

So I figured time to prime it. At first I figured since it was already a wet pump, I'd pull the plugs and crank without any load. Nothing. No oil pressure.

Ok, no big deal. I only cranked for about 10 seconds... Keep in mind I'm very nervous so I'm being overly cautious.

Went out and got the pump priming rod... Marked and pulled the dizzy. Went to back out the intermediate gear. Not moving. Very very slight movement. Tried a few times .. nothing.

I thought this things was supposed to back right out? So now what?

When I bought the prime shaft, I spoke to the engine builder at my local speed shop. He said I can pull the pump and fill it with vasoline. That will cause the pump to pull and create a vacuum.

What are my options to get this gear out and prime the pump? As you can imagine... I'm feeling pretty nervous about this. No oil pressure .. no run.

Thanks in advance

 

[Davea Lux]

The gear teeth on the intermediate shaft are tapered and that is probably what is holding it in place, try putting a socket on the damper pulley nut and rock the engine back and forth a little, that will usually dislodge the shaft. If you decide to pull the oil pump, a small brass drift can also be inserted in the pump well in the block to push up on the end of the intermediate shaft to free it.

Dave

 

[James Romano]

Ok. I'll try that. As you can imagine, not having any experience with this stopped me in my tracks.

The service manual reminds me of a math class. The class example was 1+1=2. You get home and the homework is like calculating the telemetry arc for a moon shot.

 

[traintech55]

Also remember the shaft goes in a specific way. If you do have to remove it, rotate the crankshaft to TDC. When you install the gear correctly, it will be in line with the camshaft.

 

[James Romano]

Also remember the shaft goes in a specific way. If you do have to remove it, rotate the crankshaft to TDC. When you install the gear correctly, it will be in line with the camshaft.

Presently, the intermediate shaft slot is horizontal. If I get the shaft loose, and it comes out in that position, can I not just put it back in the same position?

 

[Davea Lux]

Presently, the intermediate shaft slot is horizontal. If I get the shaft loose, and it comes out in that position, can I not just put it back in the same position?

As long as you put it back in the same spot, it will work. The slot that drives the distributor must be kept in the same alignment or your timing will be way off.

Dave

 

[James Romano]

Ok, that sounds simple enough. Thank you!

 

[Xenon]

Insert a long, heavy straight screwdriver into the dist slot on the drive...
Rotate and pull up at same time. It will turn approx 1/8 of a turn as it come out..

 

[James Romano]

Tried both bumping the motor and I've been using a bulky screwdriver. Nothing. Not budging at all.

What if I take off the intake manifold and go from the top. I only say this because I just spent two days putting in a whole new cooling setup and filled it never thinking I'd run into this issue.

I have a new felpro tray with heat blockers to go in anyway.

Would going from the top help at all?

 

[James Romano]

Got it!!! Took a break... Walked away. And went in for another shot. And it came out without any effort. Go figure.

Thanks to all as usual... You guys are the best. Cooler of cold beer is open!!

 

[James Romano]

How long should it take to get pressure? I've been at this a while now. I have a mechanical gauge set up and at med-low speed on a cordless counter-clockwise.

Nothing.

 

[bigmoparjeff]

Keep at it, full speed on the drill.

Watch out for when it starts pumping. The load will go up real quick and the drill may want to spin out of your hands. I use a 1/2" corded drill and you really feel it when the pump primes. The last new pump I installed took a while to pick up.

Jeff

 

[James Romano]

Thanks for the advice. I'm probably not spinning it fast enough. I've never built a Mopar engine, so this is all new to me. As you can imagine, I'm nervous and being ginger thinking I'm going to damage something.

Last motor I worked on was a 283 SBC for a 66 box Nova Longroof. Totally different beast to a Mopar.

 

[James Romano]

Yup. You're spot on. I slapped my corded in there and in literally 10 seconds I had 50psi. Man... I'm so freakin embarrassed... Lol.

Like they say.... If you ain't fuckin' up...you ain't workin'! Lol.

 

[traintech55]

Yup. You're spot on. I slapped my corded in there and in literally 10 seconds I had 50psi. Man... I'm so freakin embarrassed... Lol.

Like they say.... If you ain't fuckin' up...you ain't workin'! Lol.

And you will remember this for the rest of your life.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Yep, you will not have to ask these questions again.

 

[James Romano]

Thanks again fellas. All back together, timing is good. Motor is running at a steady 50psi on a mechanical gauge.

Flushed, cleaned and painted the radiator, removed about a pound of crud from the balancer pulley and painted it. Removed the water pump housing, inspected, cleaned and painted. New high-flow water pump and 180 high flow thermostat installed. New hoses installed with a new stainless steel spring on the bottom... Mine was missing

Next up is the vapor lock issues...which I have the parts for.

 

[bigmoparjeff]