Old 413 Camshaft Selection

[Chryslertoo]

I'm rehashing a 413 rebuild my neighbor did for me for my 1964 Chrysler 300 (non letter). Rehash due to leaking head gasket(he is a Ford guy, what can I say?). Due to contaminated oil damage, I'd like to change out the cam with a better selection. I'd like to do this one time as the car has factory air so the tear-down is a PITA. The engine was bored out .030 and new Badger pistons installed that I purchased some 30 years ago. Some pertinent information:
516 heads w/ hard seats (73.5cc)
bore 4.22
3.23 rear
stock intake, exhaust manifolds
stock carb (4bbl)
deck clearance .093 inches (trouble?) (measured cylinders 1&4)
Calculated CR 9.1 - 9.2
Dual exhaust
Stock TC
Curb weight 4400 lbs
My goal is to have a nice reliable trip cruiser with a bit more zip than original. I don't plan on street racing or strip visits. My concern is the relatively large deck clearance of the Badger pistons. They were supposed to be 10.1 compression flat top pistons. With today's gas, the lowered compression coupled with Felpro .038" gaskets (9.2) is not a bad thing. However, I'll have a quench depth of .131" which is a far cry from the "ideal" .045" to .030 I've read about. Obviously with that car I'm looking for some low end grunt to get it moving without the spark knock at mid range and hard acceleration and good vacuum to make it stop. Any suggestions on cam selection? (nothing like the Holy Grail, huh?) I've done a lot of investigating on dynamic compression ratios and using pump gas (91-93 octane), but ranges are all over the place. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Chryslertoo]

Please disregard. My mistake.

 

[413]

Did you measure the head cc or is that from a spec sheet?

car looks nice!

how do you get a BB mopar with felpro head gaskets to leak? Something going on there.

 

[moper]

If it was in my garage for the swap I’d run the Comp XE262 in it.

The factory heads will never provide usable quench so you can ignore that idea and just assume the static compression is a calculated 8-something:1.

Also- in case the Ford guy did another faux pas... the pushrods have to be replaced if the originals were reused. The oem one has a smaller radius tip on the lifter end... you can tell if they’re oem because they have a taper down to the small tip. Nobody uses the lifters with the small radius pushrod seat. So you have to replace them.

 

[Ripinator]

I'm rehashing a 413 rebuild my neighbor did for me for my 1964 Chrysler 300 (non letter). Rehash due to leaking head gasket(he is a Ford guy, what can I say?). Due to contaminated oil damage, I'd like to change out the cam with a better selection. I'd like to do this one time as the car has factory air so the tear-down is a PITA. The engine was bored out .030 and new Badger pistons installed that I purchased some 30 years ago. Some pertinent information:
516 heads w/ hard seats (73.5cc)
bore 4.22
3.23 rear
stock intake, exhaust manifolds
stock carb (4bbl)
deck clearance .093 inches (trouble?) (measured cylinders 1&4)
Calculated CR 9.1 - 9.2
Dual exhaust
Stock TC
Curb weight 4400 lbs
My goal is to have a nice reliable trip cruiser with a bit more zip than original. I don't plan on street racing or strip visits. My concern is the relatively large deck clearance of the Badger pistons. They were supposed to be 10.1 compression flat top pistons. With today's gas, the lowered compression coupled with Felpro .038" gaskets (9.2) is not a bad thing. However, I'll have a quench depth of .131" which is a far cry from the "ideal" .045" to .030 I've read about. Obviously with that car I'm looking for some low end grunt to get it moving without the spark knock at mid range and hard acceleration and good vacuum to make it stop. Any suggestions on cam selection? (nothing like the Holy Grail, huh?) I've done a lot of investigating on dynamic compression ratios and using pump gas (91-93 octane), but ranges are all over the place. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! View attachment 369779

This is the cam I selected for my '66 440 engine with 516 heads:

Xtreme Energy 218/224 Hydraulic Flat Cam for Chrysler 383-440

I've driven the car about three hundred miles since the rebuild, and it runs great. Fantastic throttle response, and there is plenty of vacuum for the power brakes, etc. Very slightly lumpy idle.

 

[Chryslertoo]

This is the cam I selected for my '66 440 engine with 516 heads:

Xtreme Energy 218/224 Hydraulic Flat Cam for Chrysler 383-440

I've driven the car about three hundred miles since the rebuild, and it runs great. Fantastic throttle response, and there is plenty of vacuum for the power brakes, etc. Very slightly lumpy idle.

Does the engine sound like a large sewing machine? I've heard that the cam is a little noisy due to the rapid closing of the valves. Almost like snapping shut. What is your compression ratio? Thanks.

 

[Ripinator]

Does the engine sound like a large sewing machine? I've heard that the cam is a little noisy due to the rapid closing of the valves. Almost like snapping shut. What is your compression ratio? Thanks.

I've heard no unusual noises from the engine. It idles ( I set it a little higher than spec) and runs pretty nice. My compression ratio is 10.5 : 1.

 

[moper]

The smaller the cam the more forgiving they are as far as working without much drama. Lots of comments on noises. The larger profiles are a little more noisy, but it’s usually not valves, it’s the lifters. the result of incorrect preload which is a builder issue, not a parts issue. With 50 year old engines you really need to verify things. You have no idea who’s been in there over the years.
If you’re using the stock rockers, you should be measuring for proper pushrod length and then ordering the right ones to provide the right lifter preload.
I run Comp almost exclusively, never lost a cam, and don’t have noise issues.