Replacing new heater hoses on 68 Imperial.

GoneLoco99

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I am running new heater hoses on 1968 Imperial. when I bought the car, it had no motor or transmission and was a/c equipped.
Now that I put a new motor into the Imperial, I need to hook up new heater hoses & bypass a/c at the firewall.
Is there a “in” & “out” coming from heater core, at the firewall? Also, is there a “in” & “out” port, at the water pump? Engine is a 76 Chrysler 470 Stroker that I put into the car.
Need “in’s” & “out’s”

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If you look very carefully at the heater hose routing shown in the Service Manual, you'll see teeny-weeny arrows that will answer your question.

This pic is from my 70 manual and is probably correct for your car, but.....
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Anyone know? Am I able to remove this, if I am not using the a/c any more?
Or do I need to keep it?

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That's your heater control valve. If it's removed or stuck open, etc., you'll always have very hot coolant in your heater core. Meaning anytime you run your fan you'll be blowing hot air winter and summer, with no temperature regulation.

If it's not working and you don't really care about it working, a common hack is to put in a cheap, common, copper valve from a hardware store. That way, you can at least have NO flow in the summer and some or all flow in the winter, etc.
 
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Thank again, for your time & knowledge. Much appropriated again.
Thank you sir
That's your heater control valve. If it's removed or stuck open, etc., you'll always have very hot coolant in your heater core. Meaning anytime your run your fan you'll be blowing hot air winter and summer, with no temperature regulation.

If it's not working and you don't really care about it working, a common hack is to put in a cheap, common, copper valve from a hardware store. That way, you can at least have NO flow in the summer and some or all flow in the winter, etc.
 
That's your heater control valve. If it's removed or stuck open, etc., you'll always have very hot coolant in your heater core. Meaning anytime your run your fan you'll be blowing hot air winter and summer, with no temperature regulation.
You don’t have to have the fan running, just driving will force air through it and you will be sweating.
 
You don’t have to have the fan running, just driving will force air through it and you will be sweating.
Absolutely correct. I started to mention that when I said "anytime you run the fan", but didn't want to confuse the issue.

When I bought my car in 2018, it had the "hardware store heater control valve hack" (amongst many other halfwit hacks), because nothing...NOTHING...worked in the AC/heat system at that time. But now....I have a a Day Two repair valve from Evapco along with a full rebuild of everything. I installed dozens of these things in the 70s. But wow....that $12.99 (1975) replacement part certainly did get ($149!) expensive! But I'm happy with it. When I'm running the AC here in Florida in the cooler months (it's HUMID here) I just sliiiiiiiiide that lever over to the right to get a bit warmth into that cool, dry air. GF is happy cuz she's not cold (very slender, no bodyfat!), windows aren't steamy....all good.

But now, in August? Give me that 44* R12 blast! That temp lever is moved faaaaar to the left.

Like Boe Jiden.

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Now will have to do anything with the a/c side?
Where the a/c lines came out of the firewall. Do I need to plug them off?
 
I've got the 68 manual at home, actually open to the AC section. I'll try to remember to look at it and post a picture. i could very well be wrong, but I think that they are opposite of the 70 picture posted. I have no help on which is in and out of the water pump for a 76.
 
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