Road Wheel Restoration Help!

[Dobalovr]

I'm cleaning up some Aluminum 15" Cordoba wheels and I'm having a problem deciding how to repair these broken mounting studs. 2 of the 5 are snapped off. As it is a plastic stud who has a good fix out there??

 

[Big_John]

If you have the studs, this stuff works well. Amazon.com: RapidFix 6121728 Dual Adhesive System, 10ml: Arts, Crafts & Sewing

If you don't have the studs, this is good. It might not be quite as strong as the original, but I've repaired broken studs on plastic dashes with good success.
Rigid Plastic Repair Kit Black

 

[Dobalovr]

If you have the studs, this stuff works well. Amazon.com: RapidFix 6121728 Dual Adhesive System, 10ml: Arts, Crafts & Sewing

If you don't have the studs, this is good. It might not be quite as strong as the original, but I've repaired broken studs on plastic dashes with good success.
Rigid Plastic Repair Kit Black

Thank you! I don't have the studs so making a mold and hand forming new studs may be the answer.

 

[Big_John]

Thank you! I don't have the studs so making a mold and hand forming new studs may be the answer.

Some videos here: Plastic repair kits, fiberglass repair,

 

[commando1]

If you don't have the studs, this is good. It might not be quite as strong as the original, but I've repaired broken studs on plastic dashes with good success.
Rigid Plastic Repair Kit Black

I've used that type of product. It's pretty good but not strong.

 

[Dobalovr]

I've used that type of product. It's pretty good but not strong.

Well I am thinking as this is a trim ring the forces exerted on it may be too much for this patch...

 

[Big_John]

Oh.. That's the trim ring?? I was thinking it was the 300 emblem in the center.

Yea... I don't know if that would be strong enough.

 

[commando1]

That product is good for these type of repairs, as done here.

 

[Big_John]

That product is good for these type of repairs, as done here.

View attachment 120528

Yes, it's an excellent product for interior stuff.

Thinking about it, since this is going to be more stressed, that option is probably not going to work.

There's a few different methods. One thing that comes to mind is to do some plastic welding. You use a hot air gun and "weld" a new post on. I've done a little of it and it sounds a lot easier than it is. Another way would be to grind it all back and epoxy a new post on. That would be a better option. You'd have to use a good quality epoxy, maybe some of the stuff they use to repair bumpers might work.

I think the ultimate repair would be to just drill through the trim ring. Countersink for a nice 100° oval head stainless screw and put some sort of standoff on the other side that you could bolt to. I'd cut all the posts off at that point. You'd need a special countersinking tool, but the 100° screws are available as interior screws. If done right, they wouldn't be noticeable... or at least might look "factory". If the hole is opposite one of the "fins", you could "clock" it slightly one way or the other to hide the screw a little better.

 

[Moparmat2000]

JB Weld

 

[Dobalovr]

Yes, it's an excellent product for interior stuff.

Thinking about it, since this is going to be more stressed, that option is probably not going to work.

There's a few different methods. One thing that comes to mind is to do some plastic welding. You use a hot air gun and "weld" a new post on. I've done a little of it and it sounds a lot easier than it is. Another way would be to grind it all back and epoxy a new post on. That would be a better option. You'd have to use a good quality epoxy, maybe some of the stuff they use to repair bumpers might work.

I think the ultimate repair would be to just drill through the trim ring. Countersink for a nice 100° oval head stainless screw and put some sort of standoff on the other side that you could bolt to. I'd cut all the posts off at that point. You'd need a special countersinking tool, but the 100° screws are available as interior screws. If done right, they wouldn't be noticeable... or at least might look "factory". If the hole is opposite one of the "fins", you could "clock" it slightly one way or the other to hide the screw a little better.

Thought of doing this by grinding down the dead posts flat and epoxying some delrin or similar plastic rod and tapping it. 3 of 5 mounts are ok so mb the 2 weaker mounts might hold ...stay tuned

 

[3C's & a D?]

Would you be able to carefully drill down where the stud was without going through, tap (thread) the hole and epoxy a nylon or steel stud the appropriate length in place? Not familiar with those.

 

[Dobalovr]

Would you be able to carefully drill down where the stud was without going through, tap (thread) the hole and epoxy a nylon or steel stud the appropriate length in place? Not familiar with those.

1/8-1/16th thick so no. The stud broke off at the base of the ring.

 

[LeBaron1973]

Why not contact Paul who restored Critter's car and ask what he'd do? He seems a resourceful fellow.

 

[commando1]

Graham, can you pull back the view on this shot. I'm having trouble visualizing it.

 

[Dobalovr]

Here you go...

 

[commando1]

AH! Now I understand the situation, better.
Still can't help you, tho...

 

[commando1]

A home center or hardware store that has that aisle of pullout drawers usually have a drawer of nylon standoff posts.
File flat the broken stub on the wheel trim and use a nylon-to-plastic bonding material.

 

[Moparmat2000]

If your not planning on ever removing it from the stainless wheel cover again, just glue it in place onto the wheel cover with RTV, or jb weld

 

[Dobalovr]

If your not planning on ever removing it from the stainless wheel cover again, just glue it in place onto the wheel cover with RTV, or jb weld

Possibility. but I'm pretty OCD about originality