Stupid Key Question

[dammstrate]

I have both a 64 Belvedere and a 65 Newport. Getting some new keys made, bought the blanks off ebay. Didn't realize the two pics are not "quite" the same, either pentastar orientation, or the grooves are tiny bit different. Is one for 65 and one for 64? Is this just a PITA aftermarket quality control issue? I got keys made and they work.....kind of. Have to fiddle around to get in the ignition hole and then fiddle around until they turn. I used the flat facing the key (first pic) for the 64 and the angle facing the key (second pic) for the 65. Any thoughts?

 

[Fury1969WI]

sometimes new keys just need to hit the wire wheel for a second or two, to take off the rough edges. If they work i wouldn't worry about the pentastar orientation.

 

[SIPLOWGUY]

There have been many variations over the years. Some earlier cars have "square" heads. Make sure the grooves are the same. Giving it a good brushing on the wire wheel can't hurt.

 

[CBODY67]

The "head" of the key is not important (other than for possible cosmetic issues and model year use. What IS important is that stamped letter below the head, on the shank.

That letter identified the groove pattern on the key. The grooves vary with different ID keys, as to specific placement of the groove on the shank, even its width. ALL of which must match the innards of the key cylinder exactly to go into the cylinder and then turn.

IF the turning part is a bit off, it can result in keys that take some finagling to get to turn. This can be due to one or more of the cuts on the key shank not being exactly what the internal tumblers "want to see". When all is correct, the spring-loaded tumblers "fall into place" to allow them to not hit the innards of the key cylinder and then turn easily.

As mentioned, the wire brush can be used to smooth things out on the key so things work better.

In key blanks, there were only a few companies that made them, back then, to Chrysler specs. There were OEM and "replacement", but the main differences were cosmetic, if you knew what to look for. Still, the letter codes on the shanks need to match, IF there are any. There are online and swap meet vendors that sell the OEM-style keys.

Rather than trust the "Use Charts" on eBay, you might use Google to look for images of the keys that actually fit the different cars. Possibly some archived posts in this forum, too.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[Fury1969WI]

The "head" of the key is not important (other than for possible cosmetic issues and model year use. What IS important is that stamped letter below the head, on the shank.

That letter identified the groove pattern on the key. The grooves vary with different ID keys, as to specific placement of the groove on the shank, even its width. ALL of which must match the innards of the key cylinder exactly to go into the cylinder and then turn.

...

I never knew what that stamp was - thanks!

 

[Big_John]

I have both a 64 Belvedere and a 65 Newport. Getting some new keys made, bought the blanks off ebay. Didn't realize the two pics are not "quite" the same, either pentastar orientation, or the grooves are tiny bit different. Is one for 65 and one for 64? Is this just a PITA aftermarket quality control issue? I got keys made and they work.....kind of. Have to fiddle around to get in the ignition hole and then fiddle around until they turn. I used the flat facing the key (first pic) for the 64 and the angle facing the key (second pic) for the 65. Any thoughts?

View attachment 750447

View attachment 750448

When people have problems with keys, my first question is "where did you have the keys made?". In my experience, having keys made in your local box store doesn't work. I have all my keys made at a local locksmith shop.

If I have non-original keys, like box store copies, I take the keys and the car over to the locksmith and have them make keys from scratch. Keys end up being copied, then copies made from the copies and on and on.... They lose accuracy with each copy.

 

[CBODY67]

Yes, if you copy a worn key, you end up with worn key cut depths on a new key blank. Not the best situation. Even if it worked well.