Transmission kick-down

Paul Clark

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I have a 1965 Newport that I recently did an engine swap in it(383 to a 440), when I did that I resealed the transmission. It is a Cable driven trans(1966 and newer is when they went to the linkage) with linkage for the kick down. I am wondering what I may have done to it because the kick-down worked before all this work and now it act like it is not even there, it will be in 3rd gear by 14-20 mph, even on the floor. All the kick-down linkages are for a 440 and they move the lever on the side of the transmission correctly. What do I need to look for on the inside of the transmission?
 
At WOT the kick down lever on trans should be ALL the way back,, not most of the way,, but ALL the way......
 
Go to www.mymopar.com and download the 1965 Chrysler FSM. In it, you might discover that the carburetor throttle is run by a cable, that the gearshift has a cable attached to it (possibly as a transition away from the 1964 pushbutton shift control), BUT the kickdown linkage is a solid linkage just as the '66 and later cars have.

Make sure the linkage is hooked up at ALL of its pivots (outside and inside the trans) and is operating. As I recall from the '66 FSM, you put a small rod through the hole in the rear bellcrank support and with the car at hot base idle position, remove the slotted rod and adjust it to just touch the carb throttle stud with the rear of the slotted section, then lengthen it 2 full turns (pre-load), reinstall. From my own experiences, adding another two full turns of preload will raise the shift points such that it will get into 3rd at about 30mph with the 2.76 rear axle ratio at very light throttle. This was suggested to me by an old-line Chrysler service manager, as he'd done it on his '67 Newport and had had no longevity issues with it, which is my experience, too. Raises the part-throttle shift points just enough to make things feel much better and "livelier", too. BUT the key thing is to get the first base adjustment done, first. This was the same man who advised that, related to (factory-set adjustments") band adjustments, "If it's not slipping, don't mess with them", adding that he'd run then "loose" and "tight" with no differences in performance.

Manually shifting the trans, does it act as it should in that mode?

Other than the linkage, internal and external, might check the governor pressures, too. Please keep us posted on your progress.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
CBODY67
 
My 1965 is a Linkage from the Carb to the trans from the factory and the shifter is a cable. If I shift the car manually if shifts fine. If I tie the kick down all the way back (to were it should hold a gear) it still will shift through the gears by 20 mph. Is there something inside the trans I might have put in wrong?
 
I have a 1965 Newport that I recently did an engine swap in it(383 to a 440), when I did that I resealed the transmission. It is a Cable driven trans(1966 and newer is when they went to the linkage) with linkage for the kick down. I am wondering what I may have done to it because the kick-down worked before all this work and now it act like it is not even there, it will be in 3rd gear by 14-20 mph, even on the floor. All the kick-down linkages are for a 440 and they move the lever on the side of the transmission correctly. What do I need to look for on the inside of the transmission?


Hi Paul,
Glad you used the 440 linkage, which is correct. Suggest a little trial and error.

*If you have 3-rod linkage with 2 pivots, Lengthen the middle rod in small increments, say 2 turns at a time, until you get the shift points you want.

*If you have later 2-rod linkage with one pivot, you can push the lower rod back in the adjusting slot, say 1/8" at a time.

I also agree with initial adjustment trans lever all the way back at WOT. You can then do the opposite of the above 2 suggestions to decrease length until you get the shift points you want if the mph for the shift points is too high.
 
The trans on my car did not downshift when I got it. I followed the FSM instructions on adjustment, it was not off by much but enough to cause the problem. After adjustment the kickdown worked as it should.
 
Take the kick down off, open the throttle all the way, push the linkage back to its slot or the position it would be in. Then adjust it to that. I had to do this with my newport when I installed the new carb. Linkage wasn't exact.
 
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