Wind noise: How/ where to get door gasket?
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live4theking
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You're going to need to provide more information before anyone can be very helpful. Make, model, year, 2dr, 4dr, convertible, hardtop sedan...?
sgtdave
New Member
Maybe your door or windows need to be adjusted to eliminate the wind noise. But if you need new gaskets check here, Soffseal Weatherstriping & Rubber They're made in the USA and have a lifetime satisfaction guarantee. They cost more than the import stuff but the quality is worth it and they actually fit.
Which part of the door has the wind noise? Is it from the rear of the vent window/front window glass channel? From the top of the door glass? The windshield pillar area?
FIRST make sure that you actually have a poor-sealing situation! Do this by taking a sheet of printer paper, cut it into 2" wide pieces, and place them at several points on the door opening and close the door, window up. Then gently pull them toward you and see how much effort that takes. Less effort, poorer sealing. More effort, better sealing. There are some other methods which use chassis grease applied to the rubber (temporarily) and see how much of the weatherstrip "pattern" appears on the car body with the door closed.
When looking at the resulting "pattern" areas on the body, you might also notice if any non-contact areas are "low spots" in the body itself. Like where two metal panels meet/interface. If that's the issue, new weatherstrips will not fix it. You can get some filler material to smooth things out and then put some masking tape of it and then re-check for the pattern.
IF the weatherstrips are still intact and without physical gaps, you might be able to use some thin closed-call weatherstrip to shim behind the existing weatherstrip, just not too much, especially on the roof rail weatherstrip!
In the windshield pillar area, if the seal is not good, you might try shimming the existing weatherstrip a bit. Too much and the door will not close easily, which is NOT what you want. With a vinyl roof, not much you can do with "strip caulk" to fill in any gaps/rough spots that might cause wind turbulence in that area.
There is a plastic slide piece that is at the front of the window channel. It slides in the channel with the glass. With time, it can deteriorate and crack. I believe that a few of the resto people have that kit?
Don't neglect to check the on-door weatherstrip on the bottom of the door itself. Windnoise and water leaks if it's not right in how it seals.
Basically, just seeking and installing some new rubber might NOT get things as quiet as you might desire. From my experiences, you can help the issue with a little attention to detail of how the sealing properties of what's on there now might not be as good as they might be. But FEW were really "silent" in the windshield pillar area, which related to the build quality of the basic bodies. But do see where the problems might be before you blindly order weatherstrips.
With time and age, rubber weatherstrips can shrink a bit. Using some silicone on them might help this, but don't count on it in all cases. NOS weatherstrips will be subject to that too! Not to forget that they were packaged from Chrysler in boxes, generally rolled-up. Which means there can be kinks in them from being in that shape for decades, that might easily be removed as they are installed on the vehicle. Therefore, quality repro items will be "fresher" and possibly better.
As always, make sure what you purchase actually fits on your car! Some claim to, but might not fit well. If they don't fit, call the vendor!
CBODY67
FIRST make sure that you actually have a poor-sealing situation! Do this by taking a sheet of printer paper, cut it into 2" wide pieces, and place them at several points on the door opening and close the door, window up. Then gently pull them toward you and see how much effort that takes. Less effort, poorer sealing. More effort, better sealing. There are some other methods which use chassis grease applied to the rubber (temporarily) and see how much of the weatherstrip "pattern" appears on the car body with the door closed.
When looking at the resulting "pattern" areas on the body, you might also notice if any non-contact areas are "low spots" in the body itself. Like where two metal panels meet/interface. If that's the issue, new weatherstrips will not fix it. You can get some filler material to smooth things out and then put some masking tape of it and then re-check for the pattern.
IF the weatherstrips are still intact and without physical gaps, you might be able to use some thin closed-call weatherstrip to shim behind the existing weatherstrip, just not too much, especially on the roof rail weatherstrip!
In the windshield pillar area, if the seal is not good, you might try shimming the existing weatherstrip a bit. Too much and the door will not close easily, which is NOT what you want. With a vinyl roof, not much you can do with "strip caulk" to fill in any gaps/rough spots that might cause wind turbulence in that area.
There is a plastic slide piece that is at the front of the window channel. It slides in the channel with the glass. With time, it can deteriorate and crack. I believe that a few of the resto people have that kit?
Don't neglect to check the on-door weatherstrip on the bottom of the door itself. Windnoise and water leaks if it's not right in how it seals.
Basically, just seeking and installing some new rubber might NOT get things as quiet as you might desire. From my experiences, you can help the issue with a little attention to detail of how the sealing properties of what's on there now might not be as good as they might be. But FEW were really "silent" in the windshield pillar area, which related to the build quality of the basic bodies. But do see where the problems might be before you blindly order weatherstrips.
With time and age, rubber weatherstrips can shrink a bit. Using some silicone on them might help this, but don't count on it in all cases. NOS weatherstrips will be subject to that too! Not to forget that they were packaged from Chrysler in boxes, generally rolled-up. Which means there can be kinks in them from being in that shape for decades, that might easily be removed as they are installed on the vehicle. Therefore, quality repro items will be "fresher" and possibly better.
As always, make sure what you purchase actually fits on your car! Some claim to, but might not fit well. If they don't fit, call the vendor!
CBODY67
70Tom
Senior Member
I have the same issue with my 70 Sport Fury. The stupid window channel seals for some reason seem to get twisted in the channel a bit over the years (probably due to poor window alignment) and eventually it makes it impossible to properly adjust the window. The seal is impossible to straighten out now as it's memory is now in that twisted like position. I've spent two days trying to get my window adjusted correctly and the stupid seal seems to knock it "off" it's proper course. There's a bit of play in these old window guides/rollers after 45 years and it's just enough to cause problems in trying to get a tight seal. I can see the gap in my window/channel. At this point I just need new seals, and I think I'll be able to properly adjust the window to get a tight fit.
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