Your call... it isn't rocket surgery... but if they drop it in they should set timing and carb for you...
'71 Sport Fury
- Thread starter TheFearlessFury
- Start date
TheFearlessFury
Active Member
All good points. I've never pulled an engine before and I'm suspecting that it's a lot less difficult than I'm imagining.
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
More fun doing it yourself.....sometimes, lol.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
If anything, every guy needs to do it once in their lifetime. This looks like the right opportunity.
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
Yes. totally agree. EVEN the not so fun parts...so as to know how to avoid them.
TheFearlessFury
Active Member
I'm kinda stumped here guys, how does the side trim on the 71 fury go together? I got the inner and outer metal trim pieces in, but I can't figure out how the rubber window trim goes on. Does it glue on or something?
I see it screws on near the front but then after that there doesn't seem to be anything else to hold it on? Is it supposed to be sandwiched between the two metal trim pieces or what?
I see it screws on near the front but then after that there doesn't seem to be anything else to hold it on? Is it supposed to be sandwiched between the two metal trim pieces or what?
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
Do you have your FSM handy? It should illustrate everything you need to know within it.
TheFearlessFury
Active Member
No, does that stand for factory service manual? I don't have one.
Also I figured it out about an hour after I posted that question lol, like almost every issue I had so far the solution was pretty much staring me in the face.
Yes, it does, you need one. Download here: MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals
Parts manual (another must!) : MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Parts & Accessories Books
How did we go 327 posts without you picking up a FSM? We must be slipping good thing you listened to Saylor and didn't die....
TheFearlessFury
Active Member
Bit of an update. The Fury is running well, I'm about to change out the front brake pads, I figure it's probably been over a decade since they've been changed and I'm not really in the mood to try and find rotors for my car if they get warped.
I'm leaving the drum brakes alone until I can make time to convert them from drums to disks with one of those conversions. I think PST had one for sale for around 600.
Currently the Fury is leaking water into the cabin. I guess the sanding must have taken out the little bit of rust that was holding the seal on some of the seams. It's inconvenient but not really that bad right now. I'm just patching up the issue right now until I can either have the rust holes professionally repaired or until my Dad gets the time to help me out (Which could be late fall or winter, But then again thats how long I have to wait for a shop to get an opening). Right now I have the drivers and passenger's windows sealed with a bit of black RTV silicone gel, and the rear window I caulked up with some tub and tile caulk (The autoparts guy said it was cheaper, and easier to remove when the time comes to actually fix that rusted channel). I guess I'll know by sunday whether or not it holds water, thats when the caulk should be nice and dry.
So basically its the window sill on the driver's side that has the bad leak, But the Rear window channel is way worse rusted out, It just doesn't leak as bad. I had a couple body shops give me an estimate, they were anywhere between 700$ and 2000$. And the one shop estimated that it would be 1000$ per side to hang my quarters. The guy seemed kind of upset when I was taken aback by that number, He informed me that just the glue alone was 180$ per side. I was thinking if that was the case why wouldn't you just weld it. Have you guys noticed body shop people shying away from C-Bodies?
I'm leaving the drum brakes alone until I can make time to convert them from drums to disks with one of those conversions. I think PST had one for sale for around 600.
Currently the Fury is leaking water into the cabin. I guess the sanding must have taken out the little bit of rust that was holding the seal on some of the seams. It's inconvenient but not really that bad right now. I'm just patching up the issue right now until I can either have the rust holes professionally repaired or until my Dad gets the time to help me out (Which could be late fall or winter, But then again thats how long I have to wait for a shop to get an opening). Right now I have the drivers and passenger's windows sealed with a bit of black RTV silicone gel, and the rear window I caulked up with some tub and tile caulk (The autoparts guy said it was cheaper, and easier to remove when the time comes to actually fix that rusted channel). I guess I'll know by sunday whether or not it holds water, thats when the caulk should be nice and dry.
So basically its the window sill on the driver's side that has the bad leak, But the Rear window channel is way worse rusted out, It just doesn't leak as bad. I had a couple body shops give me an estimate, they were anywhere between 700$ and 2000$. And the one shop estimated that it would be 1000$ per side to hang my quarters. The guy seemed kind of upset when I was taken aback by that number, He informed me that just the glue alone was 180$ per side. I was thinking if that was the case why wouldn't you just weld it. Have you guys noticed body shop people shying away from C-Bodies?
Find a different shop that is familiar with old cars and their construction.
New cars have the quarters glued on, and that's great, but they are also designed that way. The quarters on your car were welded on. Accept no other method.
TheFearlessFury
Active Member
I guess this guy glues on panels on older cars. Thanks for you input, Something about glueing on a new car's panels seems wrong to me anyway
TheFearlessFury
Active Member
Here's a shot of the caulk job. Looks like it'll hold.I'm thinking of testing it with a garden hose tomorrow.
TheFearlessFury
Active Member
Can anyone tell me which way this thing goes on? (The thing I'm holding onto in the picture) do I have it on the right way? It doesn't seem very secure.
3C's & a D?
Senior Member
180 degrees from where you have it now, vertically. Put one pin in, hook spring around the bottom, put the other pin in, done. Straight portion of the spring should be about a half inch? Above the bottom of the "horseshoe".
TheFearlessFury
Active Member
Thanks,
So a bit of bad news. I've been shopping around Some of the body work, specifically the quarter panels. And not a lot of shops will even touch it. The one I just went to said to correctly fix it I would need to fix the trunk pans and the wheel wells otherwise the quarters will have nothing to hook onto. He quoted me 4000 per side. Which seems sort of realistic for the work but I just can't spend that kind of money. A few thousand sure but 8000 total is way out of my range, I could buy a restored Fury for that much.
So a bit of bad news. I've been shopping around Some of the body work, specifically the quarter panels. And not a lot of shops will even touch it. The one I just went to said to correctly fix it I would need to fix the trunk pans and the wheel wells otherwise the quarters will have nothing to hook onto. He quoted me 4000 per side. Which seems sort of realistic for the work but I just can't spend that kind of money. A few thousand sure but 8000 total is way out of my range, I could buy a restored Fury for that much.
yep, thats why we do it out of passion , not for the monetary return
TheFearlessFury
Active Member
Not looking for a monetary return honestly, just trying to get my Fury looking presentable.
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