72 Fury 360 Frozen bolt..OMG help

Ok... So I'm getting deeper into this thing..but I got it cheap and it has a ton of great parts. it's been good because I'm getting really dirty and really brave. I've won the battles so far and at worst it's been great learning at low risk.
As it sit right now, it's close to a donor. But I wanted to save it (a car I don't need) and I'm optimistic.

Looks like somebody had repaired the cover where the bolt is because there was some sort of corroded epoxy around it and when I picked at it, it exposed the bolt more...so water got in and now the bolt is frozen...
Question:
It's late now but I figure if I put the fuel pump on to keep from spraying oil and clear away from the spinning pulley, I can pour fuel in and see if it runs. Alternator is off..it will run off the battery for a moment?

Oreilly has the timing cover for 100 and the chain set for 33... And then there's that bolt ..... I'm seeing it as a challenge and I'm gonna learn how to deal with it. Worst thing that can happen is I'll sell the car for parts...

IMG_20181027_112733032.jpg


IMG_20181027_112657161.jpg
 
I wouldnt give up on it even if the motor is bad. I would find a newer magnum 5.9 and drop it in. Roller cam. Better flowing heads. Only downside is you need a different intake and there is No provision for a mechanical fuel pump but that can be fixed with a kit from Hughes and parts you have on your current engine. (Timing cover/accessories and oil pan.) The magnums are plentiful and cheap.
 
From what I am seeing in your pic's, the bolt is heavily corroded in the timing cover. I am thinking it probably not stuck in the block just the cover. I have seen this a lot on Mopar's, Ford's and others that the water pump bolts that double as timing cover bolts. Before you buy a new cover have you checked for a used one? I have gotten parts from these guy's in the past also.
TIMING COVERS (NEW AND RECONDITIONED)
 
65sporty said:
From what I am seeing in your pic's, the bolt is heavily corroded in the timing cover. I am thinking it probably not stuck in the block just the cover. I have seen this a lot on Mopar's, Ford's and others that the water pump bolts that double as timing cover bolts. Before you buy a new cover have you checked for a used one? I have gotten parts from these guy's in the past also.
TIMING COVERS (NEW AND RECONDITIONED)
Click to expand...
I found one from a 318 on local Craigslist for 40.. when I called O'Rielly, they said they stock two different gasket sets for the timing cover and they come with about 10 pieces... besides the gasket and seal and fuel pump gasket, what else is there?
 
MBar said:
I found one from a 318 on local Craigslist for 40.. when I called O'Rielly, they said they stock two different gasket sets for the timing cover and they come with about 10 pieces... besides the gasket and seal and fuel pump gasket, what else is there?
Click to expand...
Timing cover gasket, fuel pump gasket, water pump gasket, front crank seal, oil pan seal and pieces of oil pan gasket. I think that should be about it. Something like this one

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65sporty said:
Timing cover gasket, fuel pump gasket, water pump gasket, front crank seal, oil pan seal and pieces of oil pan gasket. I think that should be about it. Something like this one

View attachment 225244
Click to expand...
Oh boy!.... deeper and deeper... ( I am not afraid)...will I have everything apart enough to replace the crank seal too? sounds like a nice benefit.
 
Crank seal (front) is in your timing chain cover. So you will want to replace it if you pull the timing chain cover off. It’s pretty easy at that point.
I am assuming that since you are this deep that you do have a factory service manual?
 
MBar said:
Oh boy!.... deeper and deeper... ( I am not afraid)...will I have everything apart enough to replace the crank seal too? sounds like a nice benefit.
Click to expand...
Yes, when you pull the timing cover. If your changing the cover it is a must. This is the front crank seal not the rear main at the rear of the engine under the rear main cap.
 
Ok so, I had already drained the oil and put fresh in... Before I try to start it tomorrow I am going to spin it a bunch to get the oil pressure up and the oil distributed. When I pull the cover, should I expect oil to drain? or is it all in the oil pan? If I have to drain it, should I reuse the oil? I figure I'll see how it looks and if it looks decent without garbage I can reuse it at least for the first few runs to really clean the oil out maybe with some detergent? All that dried residue dust may not have had a chance to loosen up and re-integrate so that it drains...I'm hoping to use this batch of oil to "wash" it out
 
HWYCRZR said:
Crank seal (front) is in your timing chain cover. So you will want to replace it if you pull the timing chain cover off. It’s pretty easy at that point.
I am assuming that since you are this deep that you do have a factory service manual?
Click to expand...
No I don't have a manual...but I have done this before on my 68 Newport 383... and on the seal..."Duh" I should have known lol.. I was looking for it to be called Balancer seal...again "duh"... so much fun keeps the mind sharp at least :lol:
 
What about bolts? I would like to put in stainless bolts when I put it back together is that worth it?...figure I will tap out the threads too...

OK....googled the bolts just now... a full set is 26 bucks...chrome ones are 45.
Think I'll just clean up the threads and use anti-seize... so I will probably need just one long bolt...where do I get that in Southern California? or I can wait for them shipped...
 
BTW... what do you figure the market is for this car once I get it going? Its a 4 door with AC and a few dents but zero rust on the body. cracked windshield, dash has a crack...could use a carpet and the seats are either dirty or ripped. Bumpers and all trim excellent except for passenger door trim.... I have cleaned out the tank and replaced all the fuel lines and replaced the master cylinder...and of course, fuel pump and water pump and timing chain... tires are old...owned by original family.. I really didn't need this car but fell for the fuselage style once I got to the forum because of my slab-side. I do have other projects needing my money and attention.. (69 corvette, 69 Bronco, 73 Opel GT)
 
MBar said:
What about bolts? I would like to put in stainless bolts when I put it back together is that worth it?...figure I will tap out the threads too...

OK....googled the bolts just now... a full set is 26 bucks...chrome ones are 45.
Think I'll just clean up the threads and use anti-seize... so I will probably need just one long bolt...where do I get that in Southern California? or I can wait for them shipped...
Click to expand...
Stainless are ok, oem are ok, put thread sealer on the threads and antiseize on the rest of the bolt. Threads go into the water jacket.
 
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