Thank you so much!!
72 Fury 360 Frozen bolt..OMG help
- Thread starter MBar
- Start date
What size socket do i need to remove balancer? I know I need a puller too but going shopping for socket
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
Scored this cover (and the bolts!!) For 40 bucks...
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
WTG!!
Ok... Cleared everything away from the pulley...popped a battery in it... Poured fuel down her throat and turned the key...
This thing started right away! First try! Didn't even check the points.
I am fired up and ready to roll
This thing started right away! First try! Didn't even check the points.
I am fired up and ready to roll
The socket is 1 and 1/4
Fender Tag... If ya wanna tell me what I've got that would be great.. I won't have time to decipher for a while..
SUCCESS!!
I chipped away at the epoxy repair material and then I took the Dremel and cut the housing around the bolt until the housing broke loose of the bolt enough that when I put the rachet on it it turned!!
I chipped away at the epoxy repair material and then I took the Dremel and cut the housing around the bolt until the housing broke loose of the bolt enough that when I put the rachet on it it turned!!
Thanks Dave! I just paid 36 bucks for the new chain and gears. I don't see plastic but it looks to have a lot of slop. What do you think?
Check out the offset that has occurred in that "washer".. I'm not clear on why that has a can shape instead of a flat washer..
I can only think maybe it wasn't torqued correctly and I imagine that could have caused some vibration...
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
If your referring to the washer on the crankshaft it's not really a washer but a oil shield/slinger to keep the oil from overloading the front crankshaft seal.
Just don't put it on backwards as some in the assmonkey garage shows have done.
That engines a mess IMO. What are your plans here with it?
Just don't put it on backwards as some in the assmonkey garage shows have done.
That engines a mess IMO. What are your plans here with it?
Yes... it seems pretty bad... but I have used this experience to get my chops.. this car is probably not worth a lot of investment. At this point, I'm pretty sure it will be a cool bomber and maybe I will find someone who will love it. Otherwise it will stay in the herd. If it turns out this engine is not viable, then I will for sure put it up for sale. At absolute worst, I would part it out. Those power disks could go into my 68 Newport. Though it's a 4 door, I do believe lot's of parts could make a 2 door happier....
I had ZERO need for this car. I got it pretty cheap so it's a low risk project and I know I will get my money out one way or another. And there was no other way I would ever get to experience a fuselage. Finally, I have learned a little more about patience and I now have conquered a couple of really nasty bolts and that has made my confidence rise. Well worth it so far.
Parts bought so far:
Master Cylinder and Brake fluid 50.00
Timing cover and bolts 40.00
Timing chain set 36.00
Gasket set 26.00
Fuel hose and clamps 20.00
Oil and filter 25.00
Water pump 33.00
Radiator hoses 25.00
Thermostat Housing 5.00
71Polara383
Kid with ballcap
Glad it jumped to life to show you it wants you to move forward with getting it on the road again. That engine will run a lot better with the new chain. Keep the updates coming!
The timing chain is worn out, so you would due well to replace it. Be sure to clean up the eccentric for the fuel pump as it is rusted and all that crud will break loose once the engine starts. The oil slinger on the crank is normal and should look like that. This is probably a high mileage engine, so it in not likely to be in pristine condition, if you plan to sell the car it will be worth a lot more running, so you can probably recover the cost of your parts.
Dave
Dave
Thanks for the encouragement. Putting new chain on....
Odometer shows 34k miles.. or 134k lol..
I spent today's playtime cleaning up gasket material and scraping a lot of the oil off. Gonna clean up that eccentric too...
Ok...is it me or?...
I can't find the timing mark on the gear...
Anybody?
I can't find the timing mark on the gear...
Anybody?
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
I think that you will find that if you rotate the crankshaft just a little counterclockwise the the little dot will line up with the keyway on the lower sprocket. There maybe a dot on the lower sprocket tooth but I can't see it as you didn't clean it to well. Just take a wire brush to the keyway area and don't worry about any crap falling into the oil pan as it would be the least of your worries.
Great thank you... About that oil pan, I do see crap in there and I'm tempted to stick the shop vac in there (?!)... I'm at work right now but... Does the oilpan come out without major surgery? I'd like to clean it out and change the gasket
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
We've already been over this in another thread about the oil pan with replacing a timing chain/cover gasket, pfffft is this the car with the rust inside the valve covers?
IMO with all the crude clogging the two water passages to the block I'd say the motor was overheated and cooked and you really at this point don't wanna see whats in the oil pan.
Get it running enough to do a couple 500/1k mile oil changes and see how the engine is from there.
(edit) You wanna ruin a good shop vac?
(edit2) OMG yes it is.
Repeat Batman That's Nasty meme
IMO with all the crude clogging the two water passages to the block I'd say the motor was overheated and cooked and you really at this point don't wanna see whats in the oil pan.
Get it running enough to do a couple 500/1k mile oil changes and see how the engine is from there.
(edit) You wanna ruin a good shop vac?
(edit2) OMG yes it is.
Repeat Batman That's Nasty meme
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