Rear wheels not even

breaker bar is already in possession. So shopping list would be:
Nut splitter
Bushings for shackles (8) total
4 nuts for the shackles to replace old(any specialty???)
4 u bolts and nuts
2 new leaf springs (any suggested sources before I google some more?)
2 nuts for the eye bolt in the front of the spring since I be splitting these as well, correct?
2 rear shocks (might as well do it all)
Supplies to clean up and paint rear end while it is out.

sounds like a weekend party.
 
Another way out of replacing the shackles is soak the hell out of them a week before work commences
This helps a lot. If you have the room, maybe you can get a Dremel tool in there to surgically remove the nut. Even if you can only put a slice in it, you can wedge a screwdriver into the groove, widen the gap, and break the corrosion bond so the nut can be removed easily with a socket or a wrench.
 
Bushings for shackles (8) total
breaker bar is already in possession. So shopping list would be:
Nut splitter
Bushings for shackles (8) total
4 nuts for the shackles to replace old(any specialty???)
4 u bolts and nuts
2 new leaf springs (any suggested sources before I google some more?)
2 nuts for the eye bolt in the front of the spring since I be splitting these as well, correct?
2 rear shocks (might as well do it all)
Supplies to clean up and paint rear end while it is out.

sounds like a weekend party.
Looks complete.
ESPO can supply your springs, bushings, isolator pads, and U-bolts in one easy package.
Replace your busted nuts with GR8.
 
where would I see the pads? I need to confirm if the are scalloped or not to get the proper pads.
 
You probably won't have to split the nuts on the front spring eyes. I replace the front eye bolts, but it isn't something you 100% need to do.

Get everything from ESPO except maybe the shocks.

I don't pull the rear end out... In fact, I never even take the tires off.

One side at a time.

Jack the car up and jack stands under the frame rails. The tires are just off the ground. The floor jack goes under the center of the rear end.

Unbolt the lower part of shock.

Remove the U-bolts. (Cut or loosen)

Jack the rear end up so it's just off the spring.

Remove the shackles. (Split nuts or loosen)

Remove front spring eye bolts and pull the spring out.

New spring in.

Front eye bolts in place finger tight.

Shackle in place, nuts finger tight.

Lower jack until rear is on spring and center pin.

U-bolts in place and tighten firmly.

Reattach shock.

Lather, rinse, repeat for other side.

Lower car off stands and tighten front spring eye bolts and shackles.

Drive the car a couple times and recheck tightness on everything.
 
OK, so no pads needed. Thats $75 in savings. When ready I think I will be good to go. Probably a mid October project. Thanks for the steps. I did this in my Mustang when I was a youth, used a hacksaw to remove the eyebolts. This will go better. thanks for the directions and support. In the end I hope this fixes the clearance problem with the tires but I would want to do this anyway.
 
Some vehicles were designed that way. I can remember some A-bodies that had staggered front wheels. Tried to put some F70 on a 67 Barracuda and one side fit, one side hit just as you describe.
67 A bodies had a track width increase over 1st gen A bodies, made worse when 73 slider spindles were introduced as seen on many Duster's that look like they have a narrowed rear end in them.
Also with mass production of the bodies the rear end may not be centered in the car, not by the mounting points being off but the outside body panels may not be the same side to side and of course replacement body pieces can all wrong.
 
Torch, torch, torch.
1 cut u bolts
2 heat nuts to unscrew them without breaking anything
3 burn rubber off rust galled pins
 
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