TTI Shortie or Long Tube headers for 68 NY’er?

Isaiah Estrada

Well-Known Member
FCBO Gold Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2020
Messages
517
Reaction score
952
Location
Santa Maria, CA
Looking into some headers for my ‘68! What is the difference between long and short tube headers, and which is good for my application? Everything is basically stock.

FA8D17F1-48EF-41DF-BD5C-CF48D66CCCD5.jpeg
FCE294C2-8E7D-4D6B-B0DA-14058BB931A6.jpeg
 
Honestly, headers are a pain in the arse for most - little gain unless other serious mods are done to the engine's ability to breathe and use fuel - and they burn spark plug wires for breakfast.

I have heard that TTI are the only ones that fit well.

If I were you - and with what you've said your performance goals are when you're finished this build, I would stay with stock manifolds - perhaps upgrade to the HP manifolds that were available on the Chryslers from 68 and up that were factory HP motors (I may have the nomenclature wrong, but others will fix me up).

In my opinion, the factory HP manifolds are super sexy too!

Driver's side (C body only)

440-intakes-exhausts-015-small-jpg.jpg


The bonus is that the passenger side is being reproduced (with heat riser assembly) since it also was used on B bodies. You can get it from Year One.

HP689RH.a.png


Even if you didn't do the upgrade to HP manifolds, a nicely dressed set of Chrysler exhaust manifolds are very nice, and in my opinion will provide you with all the performance you need with your nice dual exhaust system you're planning on.
 
I agree with Ross, but if you REALLY want to go with the simplicity of headers, and maybe a little "hot rod" look, I'd go with shorties. Long tubes are to build torque in high-winding performance engines with lots of cam timing, and that's not you. The other really BIG reason is ground clearance. With shorties, your exhaust fabricator can route the head pipes in an almost OEM manner.

But yeah, those HP manifolds are dead sexy. I wish my Hurst car still had them. Mine came with Hooker long tubes (and ported heads and 11:1 slugs and a Crane cam and an RPM440 intake), probably because of cracked manifolds 3 decades ago. They're fine and of very high quality, but ground clearance is an issue occasionally.
 
Honestly, headers are a pain in the arse for most - little gain unless other serious mods are done to the engine's ability to breathe and use fuel - and they burn spark plug wires for breakfast.

I have heard that TTI are the only ones that fit well.

If I were you - and with what you've said your performance goals are when you're finished this build, I would stay with stock manifolds - perhaps upgrade to the HP manifolds that were available on the Chryslers from 68 and up that were factory HP motors (I may have the nomenclature wrong, but others will fix me up).

In my opinion, the factory HP manifolds are super sexy too!

Driver's side (C body only)

View attachment 477360

The bonus is that the passenger side is being reproduced (with heat riser assembly) since it also was used on B bodies. You can get it from Year One.

View attachment 477361

Even if you didn't do the upgrade to HP manifolds, a nicely dressed set of Chrysler exhaust manifolds are very nice, and in my opinion will provide you with all the performance you need with your nice dual exhaust system you're planning on.


I agree with Ross, but if you REALLY want to go with the simplicity of headers, and maybe a little "hot rod" look, I'd go with shorties. Long tubes are to build torque in high-winding performance engines with lots of cam timing, and that's not you. The other really BIG reason is ground clearance. With shorties, your exhaust fabricator can route the head pipes in an almost OEM manner.

But yeah, those HP manifolds are dead sexy. I wish my Hurst car still had them. Mine came with Hooker long tubes (and ported heads and 11:1 slugs and a Crane cam and an RPM440 intake), probably because of cracked manifolds 3 decades ago. They're fine and of very high quality, but ground clearance is an issue occasionally.


Thank you gents! Very great advice! I actually do really love the look of those HP manifolds. I’ll have to look into finding a pair!
 
There's also a huge delay getting headers from TTI right now

I ordered a set on May 27th for a car I'm working on and they still haven't shipped yet. Apparently, the problem is with the place that puts the ceramic coating on them.

Jeff
 
For many, the correct answer is Manifolds. But I'm not here to be a troll. How bout some pics of that 60? Chevrolet in the Back Ground. Please.
 
FYI, Schumacher has been purchased by another company and they are manufacturing Schumacher Tri-Y headers again. I am very happy with mine. Easy install when used with a mini starter and compatible with the angled plugs on Edelbrock heads.
 
I saw that too!!


For many, the correct answer is Manifolds. But I'm not here to be a troll. How bout some pics of that 60? Chevrolet in the Back Ground. Please.

She’s a beauty!!! She belongs to one of the lowrider car clubs here in my city. I don’t know who it belongs to exactly, but I remember at the time it wasn’t running. 59-60 Impala is one of my dream cars as well!!! I have a soft spot for the Fastback 67-68 body style as well. Other dream cars for me are a 63-65 Buick Riviera, or a 71-72 Pontiac Grand Prix!

The shop I took my engine to specializes in engines, and a lot of folks building their rides have their engines rebuilt and installed here. I just brought John (owner, whose also known as ‘Japo’) the stripped down 440 so it could be sent out to be machined and boiled out. Then he re-assembled everything and it was back in my possession in a good amount of time!
 
That definitely a W engine (348/409), most likely a 348. I hate that she's been lowrider'd, but it's still a good looking car.

Yeah it’s different for sure! This is more of a modern style build (90s +) I myself am not a big fan of 13 inch wheels and 100 spoke Dayton’s etc. I love the OLD late 1960s / 70s lowriding when a lot of cars were just dropped statically and had cool Rocket Wheels, Cragars or other cool wheels with other custom touches. I myself am going with a static lowered cruiser to have fun and turn heads at the cruises! I actually really love the height it sits at now, and I think it’s how I’m going to keep the car:)

C825F05D-0EDB-44CE-BECA-57868611401E.jpeg

32E20055-CE80-4857-A129-39BC68175878.jpeg
 
My two cents. I had a set HP manifolds sitting around so I put them on my 68 NYer. I cannot count how many times I've said in hind sight that I should've stuck the LP log manifold back on it. The passenger side is fine, but the driver side is a bit of nightmare if you don't have the correct "C" body manifold. I had to change exhaust flange gaskets. It took my son and I forever to do the driver side because it's just difficult to get to the second bolt. For what so it looks sexy, as Trace said above, I don't open my hood except to check or fix something.
 
The hedman shorty headers are a viable option if you don't already have a set of hp manifolds.You need the small starter but that is a plus imo.
 
Go with HP manifolds and complete TTI system from manifolds back for best bang for buck.
I have installed the TTI Shorties in a couple of cars, shorties require a special starter from Robb MC (more cost), also will have to grind the block for starter to sit square. If you are not constantly 1/4 mileing your car Manifolds are good enough.
Long tube fit but now ground clearance and cost for gain you will not see with stock build.
A good recurved distributor a properly sized and turned carb with the HP exhaust will give you more power you will feel.
My thoughts for a street car.

60038195630__A4A8B221-2355-425A-B897-400DA9A745AF.JPG


IMG_7605.JPG


IMG_7604.JPG
 
Everything is basically stock.

You're dealing with a stock engine. No need for headers. You wouldn't even notice a differences if you put them on. I suggest you keep the stock manifolds on there. They will be quieter, less likely to leak, and will not burn stuff up or require you to change other parts like a starter as stated above. So right off the bat going with stock logs will save you the price of headers and a starter which could easily run $1,000 or more. Spend that money somewhere else on the car.
 
Back
Top