1966 Sport Fury- 1975 440

Bayoulee

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Question: im having a 1975 440 from a New Yorker built for my 66 SF. The block will be the only thing original from that engine. Im about to order a new oil pan and pickup. Was looking at the milodon and moroso deep pans, and wondered “am i going to have any clearance issues or K member issues?” Additionally, any other tips or considerations will be appreciated! Thank you
 
Adapting the earlier motor mounts to the later block, possibly?
 
yes...C body pans (stamped 187 or 669) have a notch in the passenger side to clear the swing of the idler arm...most performance stuff made for B & E bodies lack this notch...440 source has an extra quart pan with the notch but when i asked here a year or 2 ago if anybody here bought one and if it fit and the quality was ok nobody came forward to say they actually owned one....think the guys that stuff big blocks into A bodies have the same issues so perhaps looking for a performance A body swap pan may get more results than for a C body
 
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Deep pans are silly unless on the strip.

Stay stock. More than capable for street use, as well as stock oil pump.

I had a balanced blueprinted ported polished 383 that spun over 7000 rpm on stock oil pan/pump, and it never occured to me once during the build that I should use anything but stock parts.
 
A stock pan will be fine, unless the car will be a drag racer, or you plan on doing some serious cornering. An aftermarket pan will have fitment issues.

Make sure the water pump has the correct side lower hose outlet, it should come out the drivers side, I don't remember what year they moved it to the passenger side.
 
Deep pans are silly unless on the strip.

Stay stock. More than capable for street use, as well as stock oil pump.

I had a balanced blueprinted ported polished 383 that spun over 7000 rpm on stock oil pan/pump, and it never occured to me once during the build that I should use anything but stock parts.
thats what I thought, but the old boy building the engine said it was a good idea.
 
A stock pan will be fine, unless the car will be a drag racer, or you plan on doing some serious cornering. An aftermarket pan will have fitment issues.

Make sure the water pump has the correct side lower hose outlet, it should come out the drivers side, I don't remember what year they moved it to the passenger side.
thanks- no dont plan on either of those things! The guy building it seemed to think it was a good idea, but I didnt really see the point either. thanks for the heads up on the water pump.
 
yes...C body pans (stamped 187 or 669) have a notch in the passenger side to clear the swing of the idler arm...most performance stuff made for B & E bodies lack this notch...440 source has an extra quart pan with the notch but when i asked here a year or 2 ago if anybody here bought one and if it fit and the quality was ok nobody came forward to say they actually owned one....think the guys that stuff big blocks into A bodies have the same issues so perhaps looking for a performance A body swap pan may get more results than for a C body
Thank you=
 
Original pan is in the parts washer and local parts store has a pickup on the way should be here tomorrow. Appreciate the replies-
 
Related post that has info for you. Ignore the stuff about the 65 motormoutn, that doesn't apply to '66.
The converter stuff does apply to a 66 trans, though.
If you are balancing everythign and have a later trans then maybe none of it applies...

Torque converter question
 
More than likely there's enough knowledge on this forum to ensure that the '75 NY pan will fit the '66 Fury K member.
 
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