Hidden (Concealed) Headlight Doors Misaligned

@thethee

sorry to trouble you ... can you check to see if there are more instructions after figure 9?

"Y" and "D" carlines may have slightly different procedures?

thanks in advance.

Screenshot_20230505_115725_Drive.jpg
 
excellent contribution. Many thanks!
No problem boss.
How floppy are your doors in the closed position? I'd be inclined to check all that before ripping into the motor. Don't know about you but I'm always a little hesitant in dealing with electronics
 
No problem boss.
How floppy are your doors in the closed position? I'd be inclined to check all that before ripping into the motor. Don't know about you but I'm always a little hesitant in dealing with electronics
My doors are now "floppy" to this extent: if I push (gently, with one finger) either door, BOTH will close. As I did that, I watched the torsion bar rotate AFT ever so slightly IN the motor.

Take my finger OFF either door, and BOTH fall ajar as in post #1.

It would seem the motor's AFT (when closing doors) rotation is stopping a hair too soon, OR torsion bar has lost some "twist" - suddenly - on both doors.

I tend to lean toward the former .. since BOTH doors appear to be equally mis-aligned. My shade-tree, backyard skills and logic suggests its UNlikely for torsion bar to lose "twist" on TWO sides, by same amount (unless I am confused/mistaken by what I see) .

If the motor was completing its rotation, BOTH doors would full close. That prompted me to ask if "adjustment knob" on motor could be tweaked. I am gonna try this before I give these instructions to my guys with skills.

:thumbsup:
 
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You mentioned 1978 Salon which if I'm not mistaken is the same as my 1975 Imperial which is a Y line but here you go:

View attachment 595180
As to "Y" or "C" or "D" .. I resisted mentioning. We (the Forum) wanna debate that every -time it comes up. I never get into those debates .. rabbit holes await us sometimes and I for one confuse/lose patience easily :)

IN 1975, Chrysler apparently had all three in production. I presume there is a "C" FSM in 1975,

Your diagram looks EXACTLY like my 1978 "C" body Salon. As far as I am concerned, we have exactly what I was seeking.

However, just in case, I was only wondering what kind of distinction Chrysler was making between Y and D in their FSM, if anything of significance that would stop me from fixing my issues.

Once again, thank you a bunch for staying on this and keeping your word to help.

:thankyou:
 
My doors are now "floppy" to this extent: if I push (gently, with one finger) either door, BOTH will close. As I did that, I watched the torsion bar rotate AFT ever so slightly IN the motor.

Take my finger OFF either door, and BOTH fall ajar as in post #1.

It would seem the motor's AFT (when closing doors) rotation is stopping a hair too soon, OR torsion bar has lost some "twist" - suddenly - on both doors.

I tend to lean toward the former .. since BOTH doors appear to be equally mis-aligned. My shade-tree, backyard skills and logic suggests its UNlikely for torsion bar to lose "twist" on TWO sides, by same amount (unless I am confused/mistaken by what I see) .

If the motor was completing its rotation, BOTH doors would full close. That prompted me to ask if "adjustment knob" on motor could be tweaked. I am gonna try this before I give these instructions to my guys with skills.

:thumbsup:
Interesting! That would have me suspect the motor as well, if there is enough torsion in the bar to close both simultaneously from either end. However to dissapoint, the knob underneath is not an adjuster, just a manual override. The actual end points should be determines by the limiter switches on the inside.

But maybe try this; if you disconnect the torsion bar from both doors and wiggle rotate it back and forth, should tell you if there is play in the motor gears. Just thinking out loud at this point.
As to "Y" or "C" or "D" .. I resisted mentioning. We (the Forum) wanna debate that every -time it comes up. I never get into those debates .. rabbit holes await us sometimes and I for one confuse/lose patience easily :)

IN 1975, Chrysler apparently had all three in production. I presume there is a "C" FSM in 1975,

Your diagram looks EXACTLY like my 1978 "C" body Salon. As far as I am concerned, we have exactly what I was seeking.

However, just in case, I was only wondering what kind of distinction Chrysler was making between Y and D in their FSM, if anything of significance that would stop me from fixing my issues.

Once again, thank you a bunch for staying on this and keeping your word to help.

:thankyou:
Haha I've seen those debates and there's rarely clear conclusion. I was merely pointing out the Y-line designation since I know that is what mine is and yours should be identical to mine so the D-line instructions wouldn't have been of use.

I do tend to be on the Imperial being a C-body + Y-line side of things though. FSM only mentions lines V, L, R, W, X, S, P, D, C, and Y so no mention of A, B, or E.
 
the "adjustment knob" is on the end of the of the motor armature. it's a fail safe. if you can turn the knob and close the doors, then the motor should be able do so electrically as well. it's stopping too soon. something is causing a limit switch to open too soon.
 
My doors are now "floppy" to this extent: if I push (gently, with one finger) either door, BOTH will close. As I did that, I watched the torsion bar rotate AFT ever so slightly IN the motor.

Take my finger OFF either door, and BOTH fall ajar as in post #1.
Finally had time to check mine and they are floppy to the extent that pushing one fully closed does NOT close the other. Also there appears to be NO movement of the torsion bar at the motor if either door is pushed.

This leads me to believe that MY issue is with slop in the connection between doors and torsion bar.

Good luck with your motor!
 
Finally had time to check mine and they are floppy to the extent that pushing one fully closed does NOT close the other. Also there appears to be NO movement of the torsion bar at the motor if either door is pushed.

This leads me to believe that MY issue is with slop in the connection between doors and torsion bar.

Good luck with your motor!
Yeah .. my intuition was there should NOT be any rotation of the torsion bar at all when its not under power. how my setup now behaves indicates a motor problem - broken tooth, bad relay, some other slippage, etc.

Rod-to-door connections appear equally solid as doors are not moving independently..

This motor thing might be corrected with motor and/or relay replacement/refurbishment (i don't wanna mess with that), or manual "flexing/twisting/reversing" the torsion rod to compensate (assuming whatever is causing mis-alignment does NOT get worse) for the apparent, insufficient motor rotation.

Its gonna get fixed in any event.

Thanks again.
 
Am I correct the late 60's and early 70's models had doors that go up when open. I think 74 Imperial / later Chrysler had doors that go down to open. not sure if the adjustment process is different on these or not .
 
Since I read this post, the left door on my '70 300 has decided to not quite close all the way.

I put the blame right here....
 
Am I correct the late 60's and early 70's models had doors that go up when open. I think 74 Imperial / later Chrysler had doors that go down to open. not sure if the adjustment process is different on these or not .
I believe the fusie's doors flip up .. I haven't had any issues with mine yet ('70, '71, and '72 Furys, knock wood). I would guess the adjustment procedures for "flip up" and 'flip down" would differ somewhat.
 
the door motor on the '76 i had quit. i undid the v-clips and torsion rod and just let the doors fall open. i got the car over a certain speed on the highway one night and found that the wind would blow the doors shut! this is how i came to find out that the knob on the bottom of the motor was for winding the doors open manually.
 
I will just add that on one of my 1973 Dodge Monacos I too had this problem and the only way I too solved it was to bend the torsion bar just a little more to get the doors to close fully. It worked just fine thereafter. Put open end wrenches (vice grips would work fine too) on it in two spots and twisted it just a little more and problem solved (I didn't forget because I tried everything else possible and was frustrated since nothing else worked). Have a nice day!

View attachment 595066
I had to bend my torsion bar on 69 chrysler 300.
 
@thethee

fhanks for asking.

naw. l dont have my 'A" team guys on it I dont think. the scrubs, led by me, are playing now.

i dont know that what i have been told so far wont work ... we are executing poorly, trying to avoid taking the assembly apart.

appreciate any thoughts you might add.

:thumbsup:
 
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