Lug nut studs.

[carguy300]

My 68 300 has 4 wheel power drum brakes and I have 2 lug studs that are not tight on right front, turning in hub. Ive never replaced studs before. Is this something done in my garage or does it need a press to remove and replace? Is this a simple repair or pain in the butt? HAPPY EASTER TO ALL!

 

[Detroit_Lives]

A press would be best but a big hammer can work if nothing else. The holes have tiny splines and so do the studs. I f the splines are wiped out then the new studs will turn also.

 

[carguy300]

A press would be best but a big hammer can work if nothing else. The holes have tiny splines and so do the studs. I f the splines are wiped out then the new studs will turn also.

Havent had drum off yet to check but whats more likely to wear, hub or stud or both? If studs are steel and hub is cast, will it be harder and less likely to wear than the studs?

 

[Just Carbs]

A tack weld works for me.

 

[carguy300]

A tack weld works for me.

Thats what ive been hearing. Do you tack back or front side of drum?

 

[Big_John]

You could tack weld one in place, and that would work, but I would try to find a replacement first.

 

[carguy300]

You could tack weld one in place, and that would work, but I would try to find a replacement first.

Ive been hunting replacement drums, not so easy! Replacing all studs will be cheaper as long as my drums arent bad. I have 2 that are bad on right front, kinda nervous about driving it.

 

[Big_John]

Ive been hunting replacement drums, not so easy! Replacing all studs will be cheaper as long as my drums arent bad. I have 2 that are bad on right front, kinda nervous about driving it.

A used hub shouldn't be hard to find. It's a little work to swap your drum to the new hub though, I'll give you that.

 

[carguy300]

A used hub shouldn't be hard to find. It's a little work to swap your drum to the new hub though, I'll give you that.

Ive found a couple, used, refurbished, a whole lot more expensive than I was thinking! Thought about converting to disc at this time but Ive heard that can be costly as well.

 

[Just Carbs]

Ive found a couple, used, refurbished, a whole lot more expensive than I was thinking! Thought about converting to disc at this time but Ive heard that can be costly as well.

Right.
Tack on the back for me. It don't take much.

 

[MoPar~Man]

Very shallow cut here. 1/16 inch is all you need if you want to save/reuse the studs and/or drum. 5/8" hole saw. Can be any brand. Some retailers might not have one that small. I bought this on Amazon because HomeDespot Canada didn't have this size.

I'm hammering them down by maybe 1/8 - 1/4 inch here. Screw lug nut flush with top of stud, then get a big socket. I'm sacrificing the adapter here, it's taking the hammer blows.

If all you're doing is one or 2 studs, then you won't be going any further once you hammer them all the way out. But if you're going all the way - then after hammering all the studs down then remove the support you put under the flange and then hammer on the center cone and it will drop out.

Hub has dropped out of drum, won't take much hammering now to get the studs out.

Why not take out the old races while we are here?

Cleaned up, with new studs (both left and right now have right-hand thread).

Look for stud P/N 97070 on Rock Auto. Aka Dorman 610-132.1 Sold individually, black oxide finish (not that bright plated finish - yuk).

I pressed the studs in using a big vice and a 3-foot pipe to turn the vice screw. And I even touched the ridges of the new studs a little on a grinder and it was still an absolute bear to do. Some say to tighten a lug nut to pull the studs in. I can't imagine putting the stud threads through that agony.

New dust cap is coming. Rock Auto has wrong P/N for that.

 

[MAXWEDGECHAR]

Try Craig @mobileparts for new drums.

 

[carguy300]

That is a very thorough shop lesson! I will keep that handy. If I cant find new ones, that may be next option.

 

[edbods]

Some say to tighten a lug nut to pull the studs in. I can't imagine putting the stud threads through that agony.

It's not ideal, but it does work. Did it on my old toyota using some sacrificial nuts, I put a light coat of motor oil on the threads to relieve the stress a bit then cleaned it all up, it was still good when I sold the car years later. Mind you, this is a late 80s toyota...not sure if 60s chrysler did stuff differently or not.
Wheel studs are overbuilt to a hilarious degree, makes sense given that they together with the nuts are pretty much the only thing that stops the wheel from falling off. Not exactly ideal to get lawsuits up the rear end because a car careened off the road after losing a wheel.

 

[Just Carbs]

The last ones I pulled through on the threads with this stud installation tool that uses a bearing took about 60-foot pounds.

 

[edbods]

Dunno what the torque specs were for the 300s, but seems like 67 C bodies at least were 65 ft-lb except for the Valiants which were 55. If the 300s were also 65 then it's well within the stud's limit.

 

[Just Carbs]

60 is on the high side. It's generally been about 40. They go in a lot easier with the little bearing tool than without it. I do lube the threads, then clean it off after the install.

 

[edbods]

Are you sure? I'm talking about torquing up the wheels - the factory manual for 67 year models calls for 65 for everything except Valiants. I figure if the studs can take 65 lb-ft there's no real problem. Never seen them at 40...but I'm guessing the 300s are different?

 

[Big_John]

Are you sure? I'm talking about torquing up the wheels - the factory manual for 67 year models calls for 65 for everything except Valiants. I figure if the studs can take 65 lb-ft there's no real problem. Never seen them at 40...but I'm guessing the 300s are different?

As long as the serrations align when putting it together, the new stud will pull in pretty easy. The wheel stud installer is around $10, so it's a cheap investment.

If you are really worried about it, grab a cheap 1/2-20 nut at the local box store and the nut will strip out and fail long before the good stud will. Of course, I'm not sure if you can readily buy Imperial (not the car) nuts and bolts easily where you are.

 

[Just Carbs]

Are you sure? I'm talking about torquing up the wheels - the factory manual for 67 year models calls for 65 for everything except Valiants. I figure if the studs can take 65 lb-ft there's no real problem. Never seen them at 40...but I'm guessing the 300s are different?

My bad, I was referring to the torque to install the new stud.