Headers vs Manifolds

[68torino460]

I saw a thread about this, but thought I would ask a different way. I saw the high flow stock manifolds are on sale at classic industries for 71-74. I’ve also found some shorty headers for about the same price (1 3/4”). Any thoughts on which way to go? I’d like to do a 2.5” exhaust with some mufflers that would help keep it quiet. Thoughts?

 

[MONC440]

Shorties will be about the same as HP manifolds. Long tubes will give you more HP but usually lower your torque at low RPM. Seams like Engine Masters did some episodes on manifolds vs short and long tube headers.

If your engine is stock I would use the manifolds, they will last forever and you will have less issues with them. Headers rust out over time and the flange to head always seam to leak or the bolts loosen up.

Just my $0.02

 

[68torino460]

Is there a difference in the high flow versus the high performance manifolds? Are they the same thing? Does the year casting make a difference?

 

[Boydsdodge]

HP manifolds are the same flow through out the years. Shorty headers are nice but often need a custon starter and if you are not seeing revs past 4000 rpm often, headers are not worth the hassle. Take a look at all the Nick's garage (on youtube) engine testing with headers vs manifolds.
Even the log manifolds are not much worse for flow than the HP manifolds, long tube headers will increase torque on a performance engine. If your engine is complete and running well now, you are better off doing a super tune on the engine including recurving the distributor and adding the 2.5" dual exhaust with Hemi/ Imperial mufflers.

 

[CBODY67]

Concur on the Nick's Garage YouTube videos!

The HP manifolds differ by casting number and model year, as to how the flanges are clocked more than anything else. When they came out with the 1967 GTX 440/375, seems they were reputed to be about 10 horsepower more than the normal exh manifolds of the time, and about 15 horsepower less than normal headers back then (which were more like the lon-tube headers, as that was all there was back then). There ARE some differences in the B-body applications and C-body applications, too. Not quite as "universal" as some might suspect.

For that small power decrease compared to headers, NONE of the issues with leaking header gaskets, loosening bolts, having to ding the header tubes for clearance, etc. Just quiet long-term performance that only cast iron exh manifolds could provide.

There CAN be some specific nuts/bolts which attach them to the cyl heads, too.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[413]

Headers will cause problems sooner or later. Headers rust, gaskets need changed, some more than others. I'm done with the hassles, not worth it, manifolds are just pure gold.

Where do you park, inside a garage or outside?

What RPM will you run this engine?

 

[68torino460]

Headers will cause problems sooner or later. Headers rust, gaskets need changed, some more than others. I'm done with the hassles, not worth it, manifolds are just pure gold.

Where do you park, inside a garage or outside?

What RPM will you run this engine?

Currently, I park it in the garage. This definitely isn’t going to be a performance motor. Most of the question revolved around what a hassle, that was to change the spark plugs. I didn’t seem to have that issue with my headers. I’m not trying to make a street beast, but I would like it to have some nice torque whenever I put the pedal down. It’s a big car.

 

[57fury440]

If the choice is between shorty headers and the HP factory cast iron manifolds, go with the factory manifolds. The shorty headers they sell are not great for performance. If power is what you want, go with the long tube equal length headers. For the street, the cast iron manifolds are pretty much bullet proof. What's all the comments about having trouble changing spark plugs with big block Mopars? I've had 383s,413s,426 wedges and 440s with headers and factory manifolds. I have always used the HP ones. Maybe the log manifolds are harder to change the plugs?

 

[volksworld]

it appears the Classic "high flows" are reproduction HP manifolds...no clue if they allegedly flow more than factory ones...however they are for B bodies...the R/S manifold would be the same, but a left side C body HP manifold has the outlet angled differently than the B body one to clear the torsion bar...I'm old and spent too many years dealing with leaking, rotting ,ill-fitting cheap headers in the past so I've got HP manifolds and a complete TTI 2 1/2 system...modern headers have thicker flanges and are no longer made as cheaply as possible to sell to broke 18 yr olds so I assume they no longer have the issues I dealt with in the past

 

[lemondana]

And in 70-71 the C Body HP left manifold, 383 and 440 are different-will not interchange. the right sides are pretty interchangable even with B Bodies. TTI all the way. If it's not really a performance car, the log manifolds will be fine. You can order TTI's on the phone with a CC now. Tell them what year, car, engine, and exhaust manifold casting numbers and you won't be disappointed.

 

[68torino460]

And in 70-71 the C Body HP left manifold, 383 and 440 are different-will not interchange. the right sides are pretty interchangable even with B Bodies. TTI all the way. If it's not really a performance car, the log manifolds will be fine. You can order TTI's on the phone with a CC now. Tell them what year, car, engine, and exhaust manifold casting numbers and you won't be disappointed.

This is great information. Thanks for all the help guys. So when you say C body manifolds are different, are they even more unique for the 68 Imperial? I’m learning a lot of things aren’t interchangeable even though they are classified as C bodies. My engine is turquoise so I assume that’s not the high-performance manifolds. I would just like it to have a little bit more of pep in its step. I’m not looking to have a loud street beast. I’ve got a 71 roadrunner that scratches that itch for me. I’m looking for a “gentleman‘s performance” haha!

 

[Boydsdodge]

If you do go with headers, I should be TTI for fit and problem free ownership. I have TTI on three of my cars for up to 20 years leak free. With that said I would never put headers on my Imperial, under hood noise greatly increases, heat and I really don't think you will find the money and time worth it. Port match your manifolds to heads, clean up as much casting extras as you can in the manifolds and install a TTI dual exhaust with 2.5 inch Imperial mufflers. I am very happy with that set up.
Have you rebuilt your heads and changed timing chain? How about recurve distributor and tune carb?

 

[68torino460]

If you do go with headers, I should be TTI for fit and problem free ownership. I have TTI on three of my cars for up to 20 years leak free. With that said I would never put headers on my Imperial, underwood noise greatly increases, heat and I really don't think you will find the money and time worth it. Port match your manifolds to heads clean up as much casting extras as you can in the manifolds and install a TTI dual,exhaust with 2.5 inch Imperial mufflers. I am very happy with that set up. Have you rebuilt your heads and changed timing chain? How about recurve distributor and tune carb?

The engine has about 100,000 miles on it, it’s going to need to be refreshed soon. I’ve done about every bolt on that I can do to it. Dual plane intake, new 6150 carburetor, MSD distributor, MSD 68 ultra, MSD wires, MSD starter. I’ve done a bunch of other things, but they’re mostly for safety like braided steel lines everywhere. I had a car burn down to the ground one time because a $.50 hose. Clamp broke and caught the car on fire. I’ll take some pictures when I get home. I have about a week left before I get back on the road.

 

[496 polara]

The Tti C body headers are 1 7/8 tubes. Too big for a heavy car with tall gears. 1 3/4 like the Hooker Super Comps is much better for low and mid range torque.I have run both on the same car. If I already had manifolds on a stock(ish) motor I would keep them. If I was starting from scratch I would consider heavily the Shumacher Tri y headers and run a modern smaller starter. Worth the cost as an upgrade in my book. I had a set and sold them.Kinda wish I had kept them. They would be worthwhile on my low compression 400 in the Newport.

 

[OKDart]

The Tti C body headers are 1 7/8 tubes. Too big for a heavy car with tall gears. 1 3/4 like the Hooker Super Comps is much better for low and mid range torque.I have run both on the same car. If I already had manifolds on a stock(ish) motor I would keep them. If I was starting from scratch I would consider heavily the Shumacher Tri y headers and run a modern smaller starter. Worth the cost as an upgrade in my book. I had a set and sold them.Kinda wish I had kept them. They would be worthwhile on my low compression 400 in the Newport.

Big Block Mopar Tri-Y Under Chassis Headers
I used them on a '68 Dart with a mild 440 15 years ago. They looked great and performed great for a street car! I was able to make the head pipes easily with some 2 1/2" pre-made mandrel bend assortment I had. I had chrome (which is no longer available), and it held up very well for the 3-4 years I had that car. The price has really creeped up there though.

 

[Milo]

I have this set of factory cast ones

 

[wyrmrider]

Currently, I park it in the garage. This definitely isn’t going to be a performance motor. Most of the question revolved around what a hassle, that was to change the spark plugs. I didn’t seem to have that issue with my headers. I’m not tryiniseg to make a street beast, but I would like it to have some nice torque whenever I put the pedal down. It’s a big car.

cast iron you mentioned noise big car I had two 73

it appears the Classic "high flows" are reproduction HP manifolds...no clue if they allegedly flow more than factory ones...however they are for B bodies...the R/S manifold would be the same, but a left side C body HP manifold has the outlet angled differently than the B body one to clear the torsion bar...I'm old and spent too many years dealing with leaking, rotting ,ill-fitting cheap headers in the past so I've got HP manifolds and a complete TTI 2 1/2 system...modern headers have thicker flanges and are no longer made as cheaply as possible to sell to broke 18 yr olds so I assume they no longer have the issues I dealt with in the past

clear the steering box at least thru 73 must use C Body drivers side

 

[wyrmrider]

This is great information. Thanks for all the help guys. So when you say C body manifolds are different, are they even more unique for the 68 Imperial? I’m learning a lot of things aren’t interchangeable even though they are classified as C bodies. My engine is turquoise so I assume that’s not the high-performance manifolds. I would just like it to have a little bit more of pep in its step. I’m not looking to have a loud street beast. I’ve got a 71 roadrunner that scratches that itch for me. I’m looking for a “gentleman‘s performance” haha!

D body full frame IMPERIAL (Not Chrysler Imperial) can use B body exhaust If I remember from my 59 65 66 problem is steering box location

 

[wyrmrider]

I have this set of factory cast ones

View attachment 718511

what year part number look c body the b-e body flange is behind the last port late b body is different also

 

[68torino460]

I have this set of factory cast ones

View attachment 718511

So these fit my 68 imperial?