Frank Odenthal
Member
727 tear down finished today.
Now inspecting components and reassembly with master rebuild Kit.
Now inspecting components and reassembly with master rebuild Kit.
What are you working on today??
- Thread starter slappys garage
- Start date
Vaanth
Active Member
Not C-body, but two sets of new tires. Prepped, painted, and detailed. Soon to be installed....
15"x6.5" 3699066 wheels with 235/R60-15 and 255/R60-15 for my 1973 Twister. Originally repainted in the 80s, I repainted the wheels with my last can of Mopar Performance P4529876, argent silver Rallye wheel paint, top coated with 2K clear.
I bought the trim rings, #3461043, and center caps new from Chrysler in the 80s. The caps, or domes, were dark argent, but I repainted and flaked them in light argent, then top coated with 2K clear.
The original stickers on the trim rings finally came off after 40 years and a lot of miles.
14"x6" 3580060 wheels with 225/R70-14 for my 1970 Duster. Already painted 20 years ago, I re-sprayed the wheels with black catalyzed acrylic enamel.
The wheel covers are 1965 Valiant/Barracuda that were on my original 1970 Duster I bought in late 1975. It had 14"x5.5"wheels with small lug pattern and the long lug nuts that stick through the wheel cover. My replica Duster has late A-body disc brakes with the large lug pattern, so I added some dummy stainless steel nuts and washers affixed with bolts to the wheel cover to simulate the original look.
The 14"x6" 3699331 five spoke road wheels with 225/R70-14 are an alternate wheel/tire for my 1970 Duster.
15"x6.5" 3699066 wheels with 235/R60-15 and 255/R60-15 for my 1973 Twister. Originally repainted in the 80s, I repainted the wheels with my last can of Mopar Performance P4529876, argent silver Rallye wheel paint, top coated with 2K clear.
I bought the trim rings, #3461043, and center caps new from Chrysler in the 80s. The caps, or domes, were dark argent, but I repainted and flaked them in light argent, then top coated with 2K clear.
The original stickers on the trim rings finally came off after 40 years and a lot of miles.
14"x6" 3580060 wheels with 225/R70-14 for my 1970 Duster. Already painted 20 years ago, I re-sprayed the wheels with black catalyzed acrylic enamel.
The wheel covers are 1965 Valiant/Barracuda that were on my original 1970 Duster I bought in late 1975. It had 14"x5.5"wheels with small lug pattern and the long lug nuts that stick through the wheel cover. My replica Duster has late A-body disc brakes with the large lug pattern, so I added some dummy stainless steel nuts and washers affixed with bolts to the wheel cover to simulate the original look.
The 14"x6" 3699331 five spoke road wheels with 225/R70-14 are an alternate wheel/tire for my 1970 Duster.
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3175375
Old Man with a Hat
Repairing chewed wiring on Winterberry, my 2001 F250 5.4 2WD acreage beater.
Repaired speed sensor wiring above the transmission.
Looked at a mess on the back of the passenger side of the engine, chewed oxygen sensor and knock sensor wiring.
This is going to be fun to correct!?!
I am going to have to get creative as this mess is buried behind the engine.
Repaired speed sensor wiring above the transmission.
Looked at a mess on the back of the passenger side of the engine, chewed oxygen sensor and knock sensor wiring.
This is going to be fun to correct!?!
I am going to have to get creative as this mess is buried behind the engine.
Detroit_Lives
Member
getting ready to part out my 69 Cougar. I hate to do it but it needs to be on a rotisserie and I'm not able to do all that.
btw, be careful if you ever google image search for "69 cougar"
btw, be careful if you ever google image search for "69 cougar"
3175375
Old Man with a Hat
I had a 69 Cougar. I think that I still have the sequential turn signal module.
Front subframe broke @ the shock tower (it was cracked when I bought the car). It had a 351w and an FMX. Not an XR7.
Vaanth
Active Member
Washed my Dusters with new tires and painted wheels installed. Test drove fine, and some posing for pictures.
3175375
Old Man with a Hat
I got the engine harness pulled out from the back of the engine enough so I can make the repairs.
The knock sensor was chewed off right at the sensor and the connector as well.
I had to remove the alternator to gain access to the knock sensor (without pulling the intake manifold). Yay!
In the process of getting the crankshaft position sensor connector removed, I broke it. The oxygen sensor (passenger side) was also fouled up enough that I ordered a replacement for that too. Parts should be here today, so I can start reassembly today.
The knock sensor was chewed off right at the sensor and the connector as well.
I had to remove the alternator to gain access to the knock sensor (without pulling the intake manifold). Yay!
In the process of getting the crankshaft position sensor connector removed, I broke it. The oxygen sensor (passenger side) was also fouled up enough that I ordered a replacement for that too. Parts should be here today, so I can start reassembly today.
This would drive me crazy and start an all out war!!
3175375
Old Man with a Hat
4 things have been gnawed on (that I know of):
1) cold start valve harness (basically the valve induces a vacuum leak when cold to raise engine rpm)
2) passenger side oxygen sensor harness - generated rich and lean fault codes
3) vehicle speed sensor, harness on top of the transmission tail shaft - generated transmission fault causing overdrive off light on shift lever to blink sometimes
4) knock sensor - chewed on both ends- appeared to not generate fault code, just might have pinged if broken
I have all of the parts. Time to get ‘er done!
3175375
Old Man with a Hat
I got the truck reassembled. In tearing things apart, I broke one of the ignition coils. I did a test drive and when I got to speed (flooring it to 80 mpg on the interstate), it started misfiring.
I claimed victory and put things away.
On Monday, I will replace the coil, re-test and change the oil and filter.
We also had a big weenie roast yesterday, burning the burn pile between our properties.
Wonderwagon
Well-Known Member
Started the punch list, on the dry erase. Trying to get organized. Also converted one of my 1970's? Fluorescent lights to LED, to bring the lighting current load down. One more to go, and hang another above the 69's engine bay to start reinstalling the small bits and the hardware hunt begins anew.
3175375
Old Man with a Hat
Still had fault codes for the upstream oxygen sensors. Replacing both cleared the faults. Truck runs great.
King Hooter
Senior Member
Took some time off of getting the Imperial ready for Mopars in the Park. Went out to the 1st local show of the year at the retirement community.
Show season '25 has begun
Show season '25 has begun
Vaanth
Active Member
Repairing the Thermo-Quad on my 360. It's a 9811S that I bought used, rebuilt and tweaked it about 25 years ago. The car ran well, but was moderately hard to start after running, then sitting a short time. When it fired, it belched black smoked. I suspected a drain back due to the quad X-rings or the bowl jet wells. This only started recently. I also noted that the accelerator pump was not squirting, but you could not tell when driving it. That was just a stuck check valve below the pump cluster (squirter).
Because it is in decent shape, like all my carburetors that I have previously done, I only repair and replace what is needed unless the condition warrants a full rebuild. I tore it down and found the quad X-rings had deteriorated. I switched everything to non-ethanol gas in 2014-2015, but this had run time before that. The body gaskets were reasonable, but brittle enough to break when separating.
The jet wells looked okay, but I set up a test of the jet wells with gas and lacquer thinner in the bowls, with the outer surfaces clean and dry sitting on a paper towel and watch for any leaking over a few hours. There was no leakage.
Because it is not a rebuild, I did not use my old, good, Berryman carburetor cleaner boosted with MEK, but cleaned the parts with spray cleaner. For repairs, I don't use a kit, just pull parts such as gaskets from my collection.
The original nitrophyl floats were good, and I have a few new floats from which to choose, but I opted to switch to brass.
After repairs, it was reinstalled and works fine again.
The deteriorated X-rings were allowing the gas to drain into the engine resulting in a flooded condition that caused the hot start issue and subsequent black smoke.
The 9811S Super-Quad here was originally equipped with an electric choke. It was missing from this one, but I am using it on a stock 340 intake with the factory divorced, electrically assisted choke on this engine.
Because it is in decent shape, like all my carburetors that I have previously done, I only repair and replace what is needed unless the condition warrants a full rebuild. I tore it down and found the quad X-rings had deteriorated. I switched everything to non-ethanol gas in 2014-2015, but this had run time before that. The body gaskets were reasonable, but brittle enough to break when separating.
The jet wells looked okay, but I set up a test of the jet wells with gas and lacquer thinner in the bowls, with the outer surfaces clean and dry sitting on a paper towel and watch for any leaking over a few hours. There was no leakage.
Because it is not a rebuild, I did not use my old, good, Berryman carburetor cleaner boosted with MEK, but cleaned the parts with spray cleaner. For repairs, I don't use a kit, just pull parts such as gaskets from my collection.
The original nitrophyl floats were good, and I have a few new floats from which to choose, but I opted to switch to brass.
After repairs, it was reinstalled and works fine again.
The deteriorated X-rings were allowing the gas to drain into the engine resulting in a flooded condition that caused the hot start issue and subsequent black smoke.
The 9811S Super-Quad here was originally equipped with an electric choke. It was missing from this one, but I am using it on a stock 340 intake with the factory divorced, electrically assisted choke on this engine.
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Jim 68cuda
Well-Known Member
Not a C-body, but it is a Mopar. My buddies and I have been scrambling to complete my 67 Belvedere wagon so it can make it to Chrysler Carlisle. But, the tailgate window motor is not cooperating. Seems to stop working once it goes up or down once. Then it only occasionally goes part way and then cuts out again. Have to wait several minutes before it will travel all the way up or down again in a single try. We've narrowed the problem down to either the motor itself, or the ground between the motor and the regulator its attached to.
It's running great though!!
It's running great though!!
D Cluley
Well-Known Member
If those are like the rest of the window motors, there is a thermal breaker inside that will cause those symptoms.
3175375
Old Man with a Hat
Why was the check valve (ball?) stuck?
Vaanth
Active Member
The Thermo-Quad doesn't use a ball, but has this check needle:
The tapered end was stuck in its seat, likely due to varnish or other contaminant in the gas. The sticking can happen with these, and check balls, if the car sits for a while and the gas leaves a sticky residue. This car has not been driven for a few months. Removing the discharge squirter and a light tap on top with a punch will usually free it up and did in this case. Because I had it the carburetor off to check more, I also cleaned the needle and seat.
Paul Stubbs
Member
Time for some new Eddy heads.
Paul Stubbs
Member
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