[1966 Fury II] 383 to 440 Engine mount question

unkle.sam

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heyo, bear with me, still unsure about forum use,

So, to get straight to the meat and potatoes, Ive got a '66 Fury II that came with a 383 2bbl, now, that engine is worse for wear and id really like to pull it, problem is i also want to drive my car, I have a '76-ish 440 i built for a truck i no longer own stashed away in my shed and was wondering how it'd mount up, if possible, now i wasnt born yesterday, i know swaps arent just drop in and plug stuff back in, and im aware that RB blocks are a tight squeeze in these cars, but im throwing stuff at the wall to see what sticks

I'd just wanna put it in and enjoy it for a while as i spice up the 383



(probably the most decent pic i have of it right now as i mostly work on it at night after work haha!)

IMG_20250110_234341601.jpg
 
There are a few things that you have to deal with. The motor mounts from your 383 will bolt up to the 440 and drop in. Assuming there aren't any clearance issues with the firewall. That is the easy part. Due to the taller deck height the exhaust will not work and you may possibly have to get different exhaust manifolds. Also the kickdown linkage may need to be adjusted or swapped out entirely to work. Then there is possible hood clearance issues depending on the carb and intake. These are the major concerns that immediately came to me.
 
66 Furies came with RB engines, so I think there would not be a height issue. The exhaust manifolds might work as long as the exhaust port sizes are close in size.
 
There are a few things that you have to deal with. The motor mounts from your 383 will bolt up to the 440 and drop in. Assuming there aren't any clearance issues with the firewall. That is the easy part. Due to the taller deck height the exhaust will not work and you may possibly have to get different exhaust manifolds. Also the kickdown linkage may need to be adjusted or swapped out entirely to work. Then there is possible hood clearance issues depending on the carb and intake. These are the major concerns that immediately came to me.
yeah thats good to know,

i knew about everything else i just wanted clarification on the mounting part (im not the best fabricator)

thanks for the info!
 
If the exhaust manifolds fit, you could get a shop that does exhausts to extend the pipes to fit and keep the exhaust you have assuming they are duals.

yeah i was aware of the exhaust issue, ive got a shop here that could do it, i was just worried about the whole mounting setup
 
yeah thats good to know,

i knew about everything else i just wanted clarification on the mounting part (im not the best fabricator)

thanks for the info!
The later 440s had external balanced cast iron crankshafts which required balanced torque converters. Otherwise the engine will not run smoothly and will eventually damage the transmission or crankshaft. Up until '71 the harmonic balancer on the crankshaft did the job but those were steel cranks.
 
The later 440s had external balanced cast iron crankshafts which required balanced torque converters. Otherwise the engine will not run smoothly and will eventually damage the transmission or crankshaft. Up until '71 the harmonic balancer on the crankshaft did the job but those were steel cranks.

yeah, thanks for reminding me, i'll swap the converters as well, close call
 
I'm pretty sure you are going to need to use the water pump housing from the 383 as the later engine probably doesn't have the correct side lower hose connection. All the brackets for the alternator and power steering from the 383 too.

I can't help but think that by the time you get done, you would be time and money ahead to pull the 383 and rebuild it and not mess with the 440, or (this would be my choice) just go ahead with the 440 install and not bother with the 383. Stash the original 383 in your shed. The 440 sounds like it's all done and ready to go. There's no replacement for displacement....
 
To use the '67 and later torque converter in the '66 trans, swap the stater support, and all the later TCs will work.
It is the backside of the front pump, an easy swap.
I've done it to all my '66 727s
 
Don't use Anchor brand motor mounts. At least not on the driver's side, if you want the engine to stay in place when you rev it. Went through two Anchor motor mounts in three weeks and gouged the paint on the bottom of my hood before I found another brand of motor mount at NAPA that fits better and has lasted a month and several hundred miles so far on my freshly restored B body wagon.
 
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