No start, and then no NOTHIN'

Turbo301

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My '73 Fury (360) started fine today but then I realized I needed in the trunk, so I turned it off; when I went to restart it, I got a click and then nothing. After a couple of tries I didn't even get the cabin light, seatbelt buzzer, nothing. After letting it sit for a bit I got accessory power (buzzer, radio, cabin light), went to start it and... click, nothing, not even accessory power. I put a booster battery on, no change; I put a voltmeter on the car's battery and it showed 12.6 V (and it's only a year-old battery). I tapped the starter and a few underhood electrical bits, same behaviour.

Is this likely a case of a dead starter? Should I investigate anything easier-to-reach first? It really doesn't seem like a fuse issue since the circuits come back to life after a few minutes.

Of note, now it doesn't even do the starter relay click when I turn the key.
 
Bad battery connection is probably the issue.

Start by removing and cleaning the battery terminals. From there, check the ground connection at the block and the positive connection to the starter.
 
Bad battery connection is probably the issue.

Start by removing and cleaning the battery terminals. From there, check the ground connection at the block and the positive connection to the starter.
Good timing! I just fiddled the battery terminal and it made the buzzer re-start. They do look like crap so it's probably time...

The cable goes back to these white plastic joiner parts, like fusable links; do they make cables with these installed or do I need to fab something that works with them?
 
Good timing! I just fiddled the battery terminal and it made the buzzer re-start. They do look like crap so it's probably time...

The cable goes back to these white plastic joiner parts, like fusable links; do they make cables with these installed or do I need to fab something that works with them?
Try cleaning yours first.

These brushes are under $10 and belong in everyone's toolbox.

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I like to use these felt pads under the terminal as they help keep them clean.

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Same thing happened to me on the 5th consecutive start after an upgrade to a real NOS Chrysler electronic ign kit I put on my '67 Newport 383. Everything worked great, but on the 5th try, nothing. New starter relay made no difference AND voltage was everywhere.

Used one of the wire brush cleaners, as pictured, on the inside of the factory cable ends and also on the battery posts. Suddenly, all was well again!

CBODY67
 
Thanks, all. The cable terminals and their attaching wires are very crusty. I'll work on cleaning them up and let you know how it goes.
 
Immerse the battery cable terminals in a small tub / cup of water with a couple table spoons of baking soda. Let them sit there for 10, 20 minutes if you can arrange it. Probably only the positive cable will need this treatment. Don't spill the water/baking soda on the battery.
 
Immerse the battery cable terminals in a small tub / cup of water with a couple table spoons of baking soda. Let them sit there for 10, 20 minutes if you can arrange it. Probably only the positive cable will need this treatment. Don't spill the water/baking soda on the battery.
My father-in-law told me about vinegar with salt, and that really cleaned-up the copper! Scrubbed them in a tin of that with a toothbrush, Sprayed 'em down with IPA afterwards to wash away any residue (salt and copper don't play well together long-term, after all), and they look nearly as good as new.

I'm happy to report that cleaning the cables and putting new terminal ends on fixed the issue. So much easier than needing a new starter or ignition switch!

Thanks, all!
 
Going by experience I would say that the majority of electrical problems (no crank, not charging, premature burnt points, ignition coils, ballast resistors, lights or fan speed increasing or decreasing with engine rpm, fried alternator or starter, burnt fuseable links, burnt ammeters, melted bulkhead connectors, frequent bulb burnout etc) can be traced to corroded battery connections.

When you have oxidized terminals and connections not only can you not get current out, but you also can't get it in. However the charging system will try to
chrarge by increasing voltage way beyond the correct 14.2v. Every vehicle that came into the shop was treated to a thorough cleanining of the battery connections.
Disassembly of connections, soaking in hot water and baking soda, scrubbed with the above wire brush, coated with vaseline and then reassembled. The vasiline keeps the gases from the battery charging from attacking the connection ever again.

The worst offenders were the GM side terminal batterys. Out of sight out of mind. You not only had to undo the cable with a 5/16" wrench but remove the bolt and peel back the rubber insulator to clean the cable properly. The rubber did not stop the corrosion only hid it.

I would urge everyone to undo their battery cables to check and clean on a regular basis. This is where an ounce of prevention will save problems and $ in the future.
 
My '73 Fury (360) started fine today but then I realized I needed in the trunk, so I turned it off; when I went to restart it, I got a click and then nothing. After a couple of tries I didn't even get the cabin light, seatbelt buzzer, nothing. After letting it sit for a bit I got accessory power (buzzer, radio, cabin light), went to start it and... click, nothing, not even accessory power. I put a booster battery on, no change; I put a voltmeter on the car's battery and it showed 12.6 V (and it's only a year-old battery). I tapped the starter and a few underhood electrical bits, same behaviour.

Is this likely a case of a dead starter? Should I investigate anything easier-to-reach first? It really doesn't seem like a fuse issue since the circuits come back to life after a few minutes.

Of note, now it doesn't even do the starter relay click when I turn the key.
Clean your battery terminals. I have seen it before.
 
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