(Another) 383 2 bbl to 4 bbl conversion thread, anyone got a parts list?

[HOTTODDY6757]

Same bolt pattern for the "Holley" pattern (adopted by all for 1968 model year Chryslers) as the spreadbores. The spreadbores have the unique sizing for the secondary throttle plate sizes.\

You WILL also need an air cleaner with the 1968 Holley diameter air cleaner base hole. Which is the same as any other later Carter or Holley 4bbl. IF you can find an air cleaner base section with the big-enough center hole, you can then trim the outer section off and have an incognito open element air cleaner using your existing factory 2bbl/4bbl top.

The Edelbrock DP4B aluminum intake of 1968 came with a Chrysler part number cast into it, so it was legal in the stock classes for drag racing. Mounting plate height might be a bit different, but not enough to place the top of the air cleaner stud above the cowl level on the body. I have a Torker 383 on my '67 Newport with no issues. I suspect the Performer 383 intake is an version of that earlier intake, with some updates and tweaks.

Linkage? Main thing is that the throttle shaft of the primary side will be more forward on the engine than the 2bbl is. Might be able to loosen the throttle cable and reposition it a bit more forward in the holder, then gently tighten it down? Remove and use the existing throttle stud after getting the necessary Chrysler linkage adapter on the new AVS2.

The transmission rod will similarly need to be longer. Edelbrock lists such an extension in their catalog. Just screw it onto the existing rod and attach the front part of the rod (threaded end) onto it and adjust as normal. Before you do anything, check the current adjustment on the rod (turns preload, lengthening, from when the end of the slot just touches the throttle cable stud) at hot base idle. Adjust the lengthened rod like that. If the transmission shifts are too soon, add another turn of preload to get things back to where they used to be.

Edelbock and Holley both advocate for their square-bore adapter for the spread-bore manifold. I discovered that with the thick insulator OEM-style base gasket (rather than the thinner paper one that comes with the carburetor), that adapter is not needed. Find an insulator gasket (thicker and with the plastic bushings in the mounting stud holes) for a '70 383 4bbl (which was also a factory AVS) and you'll probably find that the rear areas have enough stiffness and size to reliably seal the rear of the carb to the intake manifold. I did that on a similar situation and it worked fine for over 500K miles. DO check this first, before buying the adapter kit, which will further add to the ultimate carb height on the engine! On my spread-bore intake, there was about 1/4 of excess gasket which covered the spread-bore secondary throttle contours.

You many need some additional wire to power the electric choke. You can incognito run that wire along side the wires going to the distributor on the rh valve cover, then to the cowl's other wiring toward the driver's side of things.

4 carb studs and nuts might come with the new carb. Those studs are very soft, so I like to replace them with the "black" studs from an auto supply, which are much harder. Put a bit of oil or anti-seize on the part that goes into the manifold.

You can re-use your existing valley pan gasket, if desired. Either way, get the 1969 440 6bbl paper gaskets, too, or a new valley pan which has them for your engine size. The paper was added to keep the metal valley pan beads from embedding into the softer aluminum of the one-year aluminum manifold on the 440 6bbl motors. Fel-Pro makes those paper additions AND might include them with their new valley pan gaskets for which ever engine size you have.

For a sealing upgrade . . . I take some black, high-heat sealer and put a skin coat on the paper gaskets and fill the bead on the valley pan gasket with it, too. Scraping it flat with a gasket scraper. Let it all cure for 24 hours and install. Has worked great for me. Might be over-kill, but so is a "higher degree of execution", many times, too.

1-Edelbrock Chrysler throttle cable adapter Edelbrock 1481
1-Edelbrock transmission rod extension, note diameter of your stock rod 5/16" rod Edelbrock 8004
1-Edelbrock thick carb base insulator gasket (with bushings) Edelbrock 9266
1-Air cleaner items mentioned above
1-Wire and quality terminals for electric choke connection
1-Black finish stud/nut kit (longer than supplied with carb and harder metal) Edelbrock 8056
// I had problems finding these items in the current online catalog, so went back to a 2019 catalog I had downloaded. Should be the same part numbers, I suspect. The noted car studs might be cheaper if sourced locally? //

Take care and enjoy!
CBODY67

I just had all the parts delivered from Summit & Pypes to do my conversion to 4 barrel on my 66 Dodge Polara. I see some extra linkage I need from your post. 2186 Edelbrock intake, Hooker Headers because none of the manufactures make the first exhaust pipe any more. Is there that big of a difference in C body & B body front end parts? I found that Pypes when I asked about they complete exhaust they have one for headers crossmember back with turbo mufflers. I am also installing the single to dual power master brakes. I am hoping this upgrade will have few problems. Ha Ha LOLROF. Before picture on my 383ci with 51,000 miles survivor. Thanks for the information

 

[Gerald Morris]

.... Is there that big of a difference in C body & B body front end parts? ....

Yes, the difference is that C bodies weigh about 1/4 ton (or more) MORE than B bodies, and REQUIRE HEAVIER, STRONGER, LARGER PARTS! Don't even play with the notion of using stuff meant for B body weight and proportions.

For front end suspension, stick with stuff meant for C body scale machines. Interestingly enough, I learned that the early Dodge RAM pickups, say, late 1970s through early 1980s use the same disc brakes and accoutrements up front as the "Formal" (late 1970s) C body Mopars. I don't care for 1970s cars, period, so this is of little interest to me aside from demonstrating that, contrary to the profit motivated assertions of "Break Masturbator" type "brake specialist" shops, A VALID FRONT DISC BRAKE SYSTEM USING MANUAL POWERED MASTER CYLINDERS WAS USED BY DODGE ON THEIR EARLY 1980S D150 CLASS PICKUPS!!! Suffice to say, my hostility to needless booster systems which fail as soon as the engine dies has valid underlying reasons.....

Modern enhanced front end suspension companies abound. PST comes to mind as one. Just stick with what's engineered for C body cars and you probably will live when you hit the highway.

 

[HOTTODDY6757]

Since I did such an improvement nigh 2 yrs ago now, you can look at what I achieved, and I'll list a little essential hardware, God-willing, sparing you some expense and trouble. First, behold:
View attachment 674045
This was my very first iteration, with a Performer 1405, using the original 2bbl kickdown rod, throttle cable and a brand new Carter AVS fuel line obtained from Inline Tube. We had hired a wrench monkey to replace the heads at my wife's insistence, and with my final guidance, I got the engine and car running alright and out of his paws before he could wreck it. The only ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL Edelbrock hardware to get it hooked up and driveable was the 1481 throttle leaver. I'd bought their damned fuel line, and a number of other gew-gaws as advised in their
EDELBROCK PERFORMER SERIES CARBURETORS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS, including the kickdown linkage rod extension, which I retain in pristine condition, but with the 2bbl rods, both the one for a 1966 engine and trans shown above, and the 1968 linkage which I replaced it with soon after, no extension proves necessary. Observe:
View attachment 674111

The more recent setup works more smoothly. I spent a few $ on Mopar OEM spec springs, the green throttle return and orange kickdown bellcrank spring, which I use with the 1968 2bbl Carter linkage,
View attachment 674112

and I put Edelbrock's 1/2" phenolic spacer between the carb and my venerable iron intake, which helps this carb quite a lot for the modest investment, but that almost ends my list of Edelbrock hardware to get this 1405 breathing well for this 383. I also got their 14" air filter and breather, along with an adapter to permit the breather to attach to the oil cap, thus properly circulating hydrocarbons from the drivers side head, while the PCV going into the front of the carb does the same for the passenger side head. While I have a nice 4 bbl T-quad breather from the mid-70s which I could use with this engine, I figured 'Brock's breather w their carb wouldn't be a bad idea.

I suspect if you use an Edelbrock intake, more of their hardware IS needed.

Mo Par 2 U!

I just installed a Edelbrock 383 ci performer manifold & a Edelbrock 4 barrel carb. My linkage looks different & is giving me nightmares. I am picking up the Edelbrock adapter for 383 ci Mopar engine. I have a problem & I hope it fixes the too short throttle cable. If I install accelerator cable to carb. The throttle pedal will not move. It has a curved plastic or rubber at the top of the accelerator pedal. The roller on accelerator get locked into place above the smooth rolling down the pedal. Does it need to be cut or will adapter I am picking up later today solve the problem? The original carb was a Stromberg I never knew that Chrysler used that 2 barrel on production vehicles.

 

[edbods]

Edelbrock #1481 is definitely needed. You may also need to bend the bracket with clamp all the way up like I did in mine otherwise the cable will sit too low, and you will need some hefty tools because the steel on that thing is quite hard to bend; it required a decent amount of struggling with two pairs of pliers. I've seen a post on the B body forums of someone using the cruise control cable clamp to gain extra height too.
If you clamp the cable down on the sheath will that work? You may need a steel P-clamp to really secure it down, because it's meant to clamp down on the steel ferrule at the end of the cable. You can see in the first pic below where I clamped it over the sheath, and you might be able to see an old broken P clamp that was conveniently located on the firewall that I used to firmly hold it in place. As per the factory manual, pull it taut with the carb at idle, then back off a quarter of an inch.

View attachment 702406
View attachment 702407

 

[HOTTODDY6757]

Edelbrock #1481 is definitely needed. You may also need to bend the bracket with clamp all the way up like I did in mine otherwise the cable will sit too low, and you will need some hefty tools because the steel on that thing is quite hard to bend; it required a decent amount of struggling with two pairs of pliers. I've seen a post on the B body forums of someone using the cruise control cable clamp to gain extra height too.
If you clamp the cable down on the sheath will that work? You may need a steel P-clamp to really secure it down, because it's meant to clamp down on the steel ferrule at the end of the cable. You can see in the first pic below where I clamped it over the sheath, and you might be able to see an old broken P clamp that was conveniently located on the firewall that I used to firmly hold it in place. As per the factory manual, pull it taut with the carb at idle, then back off a quarter of an inch.

Where do I find the bracket that you used? I had one hell of a time getting Edelbrock manifold to fit the bolt holes in it. I had to drill all the 7/16 holes at correct angle for bolts to go in with out stripping the bolt holes in head. The Edelbrock bolts have wrong thread? I had some left over bolts from my first Monaco. I retaped all the holes in heads. I was shocked that I found those bolts through 2 divorces & many moves across Ohio. I just got the notification the the bracket is ready for pick up. Only one in a 50 miles of Toledo. The 383 ci engine started up after a long crank to get gas to carb. Idle is smooth a bit high. Thanks for the pictures & guidance. edbods. Next is replacing the single exhaust with a Pipes dual exhaust with Hooker headers. Has anyone have tips to get headers installed? I asked for help locally. All I got was this picture.

 

[edbods]

Where do I find the bracket that you used

That was the original, factory, 2 bbl cable bracket. I just remembered that I actually had access to a hydraulic metal bender which made things so much easier for me. I did some further bending with two pliers and that alone was very challenging. Mancini Racing does stock a raised bracket for a 383 or 440 engine (make sure you get the correct one because it's different between both) so you can do this conversion, but it ain't cheap. The build quality on the parts is great though.

 

[Gerald Morris]

I just installed a Edelbrock 383 ci performer manifold & a Edelbrock 4 barrel carb. My linkage looks different & is giving me nightmares. I am picking up the Edelbrock adapter for 383 ci Mopar engine. I have a problem & I hope it fixes the too short throttle cable. If I install accelerator cable to carb. The throttle pedal will not move. It has a curved plastic or rubber at the top of the accelerator pedal. The roller on accelerator get locked into place above the smooth rolling down the pedal. Does it need to be cut or will adapter I am picking up later today solve the problem? The original carb was a Stromberg I never knew that Chrysler used that 2 barrel on production vehicles.

OK, the FIRST thing you MUST GET is the Edelbrock 1481 adapter. This enables you to attach your throttle cable to the carb. That cable SHOULD BE long enough, with the adapter, to open and close your throttle plates fully.

You should reassemble your accelerator pedal as per the FSM. You driving a '68? Not that they differ much as far as the Slab Side cars went. PRAY DON'T cut it or any such thing, just put it back together as it was originally, lest you be taxed with the cost of some aftermarket, inferior generic pedal!

The Stromberg WWC served Chrysler Corp extensively from the late 1950s through 1968, and maybe longer with Dodge trucks, though by the 1970s they had switched to Holley for 2 barrel carbs like the Stromberg, and they also used the Carter BBD of the same size for their B/RB engines.

Since I used an old stock Mopar 4 bbl intake, I had an easier time fitting the throttle cable, kickdown linkage and throttle return springs. Ironically enough, the 2 barrel stuff served and yet serves me perfectly, though I DID have to BEND the throttle cable bracket a good deal, using a large pipe wrench. Mopar built sturdy stuff back in the Golden Age of Detroit Iron!

I can show you a pic of my current setup if that will help you. Since I want a Performer intake for this engine, I'll watch how you do yours, and pray it goes well.

 

[HOTTODDY6757]

OK, the FIRST thing you MUST GET is the Edelbrock 1481 adapter. This enables you to attach your throttle cable to the carb. That cable SHOULD BE long enough, with the adapter, to open and close your throttle plates fully.

You should reassemble your accelerator pedal as per the FSM. You driving a '68? Not that they differ much as far as the Slab Side cars went. PRAY DON'T cut it or any such thing, just put it back together as it was originally, lest you be taxed with the cost of some aftermarket, inferior generic pedal!

The Stromberg WWC served Chrysler Corp extensively from the late 1950s through 1968, and maybe longer with Dodge trucks, though by the 1970s they had switched to Holley for 2 barrel carbs like the Stromberg, and they also used the Carter BBD of the same size for their B/RB engines.

Since I used an old stock Mopar 4 bbl intake, I had an easier time fitting the throttle cable, kickdown linkage and throttle return springs. Ironically enough, the 2 barrel stuff served and yet serves me perfectly, though I DID have to BEND the throttle cable bracket a good deal, using a large pipe wrench. Mopar built sturdy stuff back in the Golden Age of Detroit Iron!

I can show you a pic of my current setup if that will help you. Since I want a Performer intake for this engine, I'll watch how you do yours, and pray it goes well.

I installed the adapter to the carb. Same idea I had to make one myself. I had to slightly bend the original bracket to get a straight line with no binding. Works during my drive today to a car show. I changed the oil that had not been changed for many years according to the sticker. I am going to try the adjustments in repair manual to see how far off it is from original 2 barrel carb to 4 barrel carb.
I was amazed by how many people at the car show had never heard of a Polara. I told them to watch some of the old Police chasses in old movies. Most of the Police cars were Polara's or Satellites. Then they ask about ride & milage. For a car ten years younger than Me. She is what driving should be. At 51,000 when I bought it. I still have not driven over 1000 miles yet.

 

[HOTTODDY6757]

I just had all the parts delivered from Summit & Pypes to do my conversion to 4 barrel on my 66 Dodge Polara. I see some extra linkage I need from your post. 2186 Edelbrock intake, Hooker Headers because none of the manufactures make the first exhaust pipe any more. Is there that big of a difference in C body & B body front end parts? I found that Pypes when I asked about they complete exhaust they have one for headers crossmember back with turbo mufflers. I am also installing the single to dual power master brakes. I am hoping this upgrade will have few problems. Ha Ha LOLROF. Before picture on my 383ci with 51,000 miles survivor. Thanks for the information

View attachment 710724

Since I did such an improvement nigh 2 yrs ago now, you can look at what I achieved, and I'll list a little essential hardware, God-willing, sparing you some expense and trouble. First, behold:
View attachment 674045
This was my very first iteration, with a Performer 1405, using the original 2bbl kickdown rod, throttle cable and a brand new Carter AVS fuel line obtained from Inline Tube. We had hired a wrench monkey to replace the heads at my wife's insistence, and with my final guidance, I got the engine and car running alright and out of his paws before he could wreck it. The only ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL Edelbrock hardware to get it hooked up and driveable was the 1481 throttle leaver. I'd bought their damned fuel line, and a number of other gew-gaws as advised in their
EDELBROCK PERFORMER SERIES CARBURETORS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS, including the kickdown linkage rod extension, which I retain in pristine condition, but with the 2bbl rods, both the one for a 1966 engine and trans shown above, and the 1968 linkage which I replaced it with soon after, no extension proves necessary. Observe:
View attachment 674111

The more recent setup works more smoothly. I spent a few $ on Mopar OEM spec springs, the green throttle return and orange kickdown bellcrank spring, which I use with the 1968 2bbl Carter linkage,
View attachment 674112

and I put Edelbrock's 1/2" phenolic spacer between the carb and my venerable iron intake, which helps this carb quite a lot for the modest investment, but that almost ends my list of Edelbrock hardware to get this 1405 breathing well for this 383. I also got their 14" air filter and breather, along with an adapter to permit the breather to attach to the oil cap, thus properly circulating hydrocarbons from the drivers side head, while the PCV going into the front of the carb does the same for the passenger side head. While I have a nice 4 bbl T-quad breather from the mid-70s which I could use with this engine, I figured 'Brock's breather w their carb wouldn't be a bad idea.

I suspect if you use an Edelbrock intake, more of their hardware IS needed.

Mo Par 2 U!

Gerald Morris. I drove my 66 Polara to Sandusky Cruise by the bay. Over 100 miles round trip from Toledo, Ohio. See picture as another show that people never heard of a Dodge Polara. The transmission shifts too soon. All done shifting at 25 mph with accelerator to floor or light acceleration. In these pictures the spring for throttle pressure is different from mine. I tried tightening the transmission rod a couple of turns. No better on my ride today Sunday 7 Sept. What should I do? I have a 1990 Buick wagon that I changed carb to Not computer controlled. Same problem as it also shifts to quick & goes into Over drive by 35 mph & won't kick down like the 66 Polara is doing. Must be me? Two cars same problems?

 

[CBODY67]

With both cars, until you get the issue figured out, you DO know you can manually shift them with higher shift points to suit the circumstances? In the case of the TF, you can use "2" position to get into 2nd gear and then upshift into "D" at about 30mph in normal driving. Our '66 Newport 383 2bbl 8.55x14 2.76 car can go to 85mph in manual "2" at WOT, for example.

So, from a start in "2", it will start in low gear, shift out, be in manual "2" from then on to when you can use "D" for high gear.

Remember that in the transmission rod adjustment, with the carb at hot base idle, normal idle speed, the rod adjustment from that point is 2 turns preload from the rear of the slot just touching the carb linkage stud. I have used 4 turns preload on the '66 Newport for the past 100K miles with no issues, to raise the automatic shift points several mph at part-throttle. Having the throttle rod at OEM specs as a benchmark can be important.

Please advise of your progress,
CBODY67

 

[Gerald Morris]

Gerald Morris. I drove my 66 Polara to Sandusky Cruise by the bay. Over 100 miles round trip from Toledo, Ohio. See picture as another show that people never heard of a Dodge Polara. The transmission shifts too soon. All done shifting at 25 mph with accelerator to floor or light acceleration. In these pictures the spring for throttle pressure is different from mine. I tried tightening the transmission rod a couple of turns. No better on my ride today Sunday 7 Sept. What should I do? I have a 1990 Buick wagon that I changed carb to Not computer controlled. Same problem as it also shifts to quick & goes into Over drive by 35 mph & won't kick down like the 66 Polara is doing. Must be me? Two cars same problems?

Let's focus on your Polara, it being the vehicle I might know a bit about by way of my having even now, in our 1968 Newport, a 1966 engine and transmission, with the 'Brock 1405 taking the place of a Carter AVS.

1. Have you attended to the procedure for adjusting kickdown in a 1966 FSM? Let us review that now:

This procedure, from Chapter 21 of the Chrysler Field
Service Manual, 1966 should be followed with the utmost scruple the first time one installs any new carburetor. Steps 4-8 are MOST germane to how the transmission behaves, so start with thiings just as described. Then drive the car, and see how your transmission shifts. I use a 3/16" drill bit for holding that bell crank in place while checking to insure the lower linkage is just right. I then carefully adjust the slotted kickdown rod (#6 in diagram) with the 2 turn pre-load as described. I've played with this a little, and yes, if you run that up some, the shifting will occur at higher revs. Proceed with care here, and Good Luck!

 

[CBODY67]

Thanks @Gerald Morris for that FSM documentation. Same thing that is in my 1966 Chrysler FSM.

Before I excursioned to Lubbock for the first time in summer of 1972, I had always felt like our '66 Newport did well in performance with traffic. As to shift points and throttle input. BUT when I got out there and started driving around, I soon discovered that it took MORE throttle input to stay up with traffic leaving a red light. Worse during the afternoon times when everybody was headed home from work. I knew the Chrysler should not be "left in the dust" by Galaxie 302s, for example, so I started to check things on the Chrysler to ensure they were at OEM specs.

I consulted with the old-line Chrysler service manager at the local dealership. We bought the car when it was 1 yr old with 7100 miles on it. No reason for anything to have been tampered with, so everything was presumed to be at factory settings.

At that time, Mr. Foster's personal car was a '67 Newport 4-dr sedan, 383 2bbl. He also regularly went to Albuquerque, NM, which was at a higher elevation. In the course of the conversation, I mentioned the difference in altitude and if the carb jets needed to be changed. He said he just advance the timing from 12.5*BTDC to 15*BTDC to compensate for any possible power loss from the altitude. Easy enough!

I mentioned my exploration of manual-shifting shift points. He said he had put some more pre-load into the transmission linkage to do that. Easy enough. So the timing later got changed (the car did not like running normal Regular-grade gas at all, so we had been running Premium in it all the time anyway).

So I dug out the FSM ans set about adding preload to the transmission linkage rod. I had earlier seen the "reference hole" in the bellcrank pivot item. So I sought a small screwdriver that would fit into that hole. When the linkage was stabilized, I removed the return springs and the accel linkage, then the transmission rod. I noticed it had a little bit of preload already on it, so I verified that it was the OEM spec 2 turns preload. It was. So I then carefully added the additional 2 turns to the rod, reassembled everything, BUT first had to remove the small screwdriver so I the linkage would move rearward so the slotted end would slide against the carburetor linage stud. Once reassembled, I checked for ease of movement (which did not change).

My first test drive was amazing! Less throttle and more acceleration. With the 2.76 rear axle and 8.55x14 (H78x14) tires, it still got into 3rd gear at right at 29mph with light throttle (just over 1100 engine rpm after the shift), by that time, the torque converter was more "solid" as to engine speed, so things just flat worked better. Better results than when I was shifting it manually! Later on, I perfected manual "D" to "2" downshifts for freeway on-ramp acceleration, to mimic the later TFs with factory part-throttle kickdown. Again, less throttle more acceleration.

To me, these small tweaks and operational enhancements were part of a general orientation of "Find out what the equipment can do and likes to do, then changing a few things so those things happen all of the time . . . EVEN IF it might take some more 'operator training' for them to happen". It is NOT usually possible that a few tweaks can result in less throttle input, more performance as a result, and possibly a smidge more mpg as a result.

Just like my earlier tire pressure discovery. Running the tires at 30fft/28rr so each tire carried approximately the same relative loading. Better steering response and improved tire wear at all locations. Little changes can make a lot of eventual differences!

How I refined the idle speed and mixture procedures is for another time.

Take care,
CBODY67

 

[HOTTODDY6757]

Let's focus on your Polara, it being the vehicle I might know a bit about by way of my having even now, in our 1968 Newport, a 1966 engine and transmission, with the 'Brock 1405 taking the place of a Carter AVS.

1. Have you attended to the procedure for adjusting kickdown in a 1966 FSM? Let us review that now:
View attachment 734072View attachment 734073

This procedure, from Chapter 21 of the Chrysler Field
Service Manual, 1966 should be followed with the utmost scruple the first time one installs any new carburetor. Steps 4-8 are MOST germane to how the transmission behaves, so start with thiings just as described. Then drive the car, and see how your transmission shifts. I use a 3/16" drill bit for holding that bell crank in place while checking to insure the lower linkage is just right. I then carefully adjust the slotted kickdown rod (#6 in diagram) with the 2 turn pre-load as described. I've played with this a little, and yes, if you run that up some, the shifting will occur at higher revs. Proceed with care here, and Good Luck!

I have this in my 1966 Dodge repair manual. I did this exactly. I have no kick down when the throttle is pressed to wide open. I do this adjustment. I do not have the special tool I saw in a YouTube video that was released by Chrysler to make adjustments. I will go out & retry the adjustments if needed & add more turns to the slotted arm & bell crank. Next I guess that a Lokar cable linkage for kick down. I noticed that the engine has preignition when driving last night. Have to check timing too.

 

[CBODY67]

The aftermarket Lokar cable will still need to be correctly adjusted. Meaning you are just as well off with the current linkage when you get it all set up correctly. OR find the reason for the malfunction.

Presumig the current linkage is correct and OEM to the car?

The ref'd Chrysler MasterTech video does not really apply to your model year of car. It is for the 1971 and later cars with a TF with the part-throttle kickdown features. My '70 Monaco 383 4bbl has a throttle rod linkage which is made of two pieces which bolt together for the adjustment. On your '66 TF, the linkage rods attach to a bellcrank mechanism instead. With the '70+ arrangement, a "special tool" is needed to adjust the rod at the transmission as stated. On the '66 linkage, the "Through-Hole" is used for the calibration point. As the one steel rod passes through all holes in the bellcrank to put the belcrank in the correct position for all adjustments. No springs or special tools needed.

When did this shift point issue begin? Were the throttle rods to the transmission bent somewhere along the line?

When I upgraded the AFB on my '67 Newport 383 to a ThermoQuad, the throttle stud on the carb moved forward, which needed an Edelbrock "spacer" to lengthen the rod a bit so everything hooked up correctly. A simple little item FEW probably know about, but it is in the Edelbrock catalog for just TF linkages!

Unhook the "botom-siee" rod from the bellcrank and do the correct adjustments to it, then re-attach it. ALL with the rod inserted to lock the bellcrank into the correct position. THEN do the top-side rod adjustment for the correct slotted rod adjustment at the carburetor. IF needed, get the Edelbrock item for the correct throttle rod diameter. For my '67, it was the larger diameter size. Then set the correct pre-load on the rod as the FSM directs and see what that does.

EVEN the aftermarket Lokar cable will need to be adjusted for correct transmission operation. Work to get the OEM linkage correctly adjusted before spending any money on aftermarket/GM style items.

IF needed, get the vehicle to a transmission shop knowledgeable in TFs and get pressure checks done. Especially the governor pressure.

CBODY67

 

[Gerald Morris]

I have this in my 1966 Dodge repair manual. I did this exactly. I have no kick down when the throttle is pressed to wide open. I do this adjustment. I do not have the special tool I saw in a YouTube video that was released by Chrysler to make adjustments. I will go out & retry the adjustments if needed & add more turns to the slotted arm & bell crank. Next I guess that a Lokar cable linkage for kick down. I noticed that the engine has preignition when driving last night. Have to check timing too.

I might recommend you get a somewhat more robust spring for the bellcrank/kickdown than what I saw in the pic posted Aug 29. I know that Chrysler used those, but one thing I found that helps mine snap down seems to be a new spring. I think I had the original one when I bought that engine/tranny w the green rust bubble around it. Aside from that, just make sure the rod to the transmission stop is pegged up firmly against it when you adjust the carburetor rod. Save your money on that Lokar cable. It won't do you any good here. Your linkage looks FINE! I use a 3/16 drill bit to peg the bellcrank, special tools from 1970 being in short supply. Start with the intermediate rod (#13" cranked into that ball socket all the way, then peg that bellcrank down low into the stop, adjust your slotted carburetor rod back with mininmal preload, and see how far the engine must wind up before it shifts. I suspect it will wind up plenty with the intermediate rod shortened to minimum length. THEN, adjust it out.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Thanks @Gerald Morris for that FSM documentation. Same thing that is in my 1966 Chrysler FSM.

Before I excursioned to Lubbock for the first time in summer of 1972, I had always felt like our '66 Newport did well in performance with traffic. As to shift points and throttle input. BUT when I got out there and started driving around, I soon discovered that it took MORE throttle input to stay up with traffic leaving a red light. ....

My first test drive was amazing! Less throttle and more acceleration. With the 2.76 rear axle and 8.55x14 (H78x14) tires, it still got into 3rd gear at right at 29mph with light throttle (just over 1100 engine rpm after the shift), by that time, the torque converter was more "solid" as to engine speed, so things just flat worked better. Better results than when I was shifting it manually! Later on, I perfected manual "D" to "2" downshifts for freeway on-ramp acceleration, to mimic the later TFs with factory part-throttle kickdown. Again, less throttle more acceleration.

To me, these small tweaks and operational enhancements were part of a general orientation of "Find out what the equipment can do and likes to do, then changing a few things so those things happen all of the time . . . EVEN IF it might take some more 'operator training' for them to happen". It is NOT usually possible that a few tweaks can result in less throttle input, more performance as a result, and possibly a smidge more mpg as a result.

Just like my earlier tire pressure discovery. Running the tires at 30fft/28rr so each tire carried approximately the same relative loading. Better steering response and improved tire wear at all locations. Little changes can make a lot of eventual differences!

How I refined the idle speed and mixture procedures is for another time.

Take care,
CBODY67

You describe how Gertrude shifts quite closely! I think she'll idle into 3rd at 25 or so... though at 1100 rpm she shifts just under 30 mph. That's the same 1966 drivetrain I had in old Mathilda, so the comparison is still very valid here.

 

[HOTTODDY6757]

I might recommend you get a somewhat more robust spring for the bellcrank/kickdown than what I saw in the pic posted Aug 29. I know that Chrysler used those, but one thing I found that helps mine snap down seems to be a new spring. I think I had the original one when I bought that engine/tranny w the green rust bubble around it. Aside from that, just make sure the rod to the transmission stop is pegged up firmly against it when you adjust the carburetor rod. Save your money on that Lokar cable. It won't do you any good here. Your linkage looks FINE! I use a 3/16 drill bit to peg the bellcrank, special tools from 1970 being in short supply. Start with the intermediate rod (#13" cranked into that ball socket all the way, then peg that bellcrank down low into the stop, adjust your slotted carburetor rod back with mininmal preload, and see how far the engine must wind up before it shifts. I suspect it will wind up plenty with the intermediate rod shortened to minimum length. THEN, adjust it out.

All is good. I lengthened the rods for accelerator with a piece of metal plate a inch longer & Throttle pressure lengthened the adjusting bolt a inch longer. Had a hard time finding a bolt with same threads. I made some adjustments to the bracket that bolts to intake manifold. I have 3 springs that are stronger for throttle return. My shift points are what I consider normal. Passing gear works as it should. Maybe need to back off a bit because second shift at times winds up too high? Now a new problem. Windshield washer does not work with new pump I had installed to fill in till I get a MOPAR washer pump. No power to electrical & no fuses for the windshield wipers. The fuse box only has 4 fuses & a empty on for A/C. Yes, wipers work. No planning any trips in rain. But could get caught in a storm.

 

[Gerald Morris]

All is good. I lengthened the rods for accelerator with a piece of metal plate a inch longer & Throttle pressure lengthened the adjusting bolt a inch longer. Had a hard time finding a bolt with same threads. I made some adjustments to the bracket that bolts to intake manifold. I have 3 springs that are stronger for throttle return. My shift points are what I consider normal. Passing gear works as it should. Maybe need to back off a bit because second shift at times winds up too high? Now a new problem. Windshield washer does not work with new pump I had installed to fill in till I get a MOPAR washer pump. No power to electrical & no fuses for the windshield wipers. The fuse box only has 4 fuses & a empty on for A/C. Yes, wipers work. No planning any trips in rain. But could get caught in a storm.

The windshield wiper circuit has a breaker built into the switch. If you like, run a new feed from the battery through the firewall for them, though I think that with the ignition switch as power switch, they have adequate protection.....

 

[HOTTODDY6757]

The windshield wiper circuit has a breaker built into the switch. If you like, run a new feed from the battery through the firewall for them, though I think that with the ignition switch as power switch, they have adequate protection.....

I fixed it. The hose I reused was hard & rotted. It split in a place I could not see. Works now. Waiting for the replacement that looks like the original one. Next question. Exhaust. The pipe at engine if leaking. Donut? How do I get the windows to roll down with out calling King Kong to turn the manual crank.

 

[edbods]

How do I get the windows to roll down with out calling King Kong to turn the manual crank

Time to take the door card/panel off. Use a metal trim removal tool since the fiberboard has a good chance of ripping out and the steel retaining clips can be stuck real tight; on every door panel of my car I tore out 1-3 clips pulling off by hand lol.
Remove the moisture barrier, if it's falling apart now is the time to replace that too, I used 100 micron-thickness builder's plastic. Butyl tape is great to stick it on, but may make future servicing more annoying; it's very sticky and tacky, like melted cheese. If you ever need to take it off again without making a mess, you'll need to slice through the tape slowly while pulling the sheet away from the door.
Get some water resistant grease and coat the gear teeth, sliding surfaces and pivot points of the regulator assembly. The main pivot point for the sun gear may be impossible to reach with your fingers; use spray grease with a long thin nozzle - spraying this pivot point alone with lithium grease made the biggest improvement for me.
If your vent window cranks are buggered, this is also the time to repair them. Grind down the rivets until smooth (not all the way down flush with the surrounding area) then drill out a hole in each to stick a bolt in. I used a 3.5mm drill bit and an M4 bolt with M4 and M6 washers to hold it down. It seems to hold up well even when forcing the crank at its maximum travel. (Shoutout to @65CopCar for the vent window plate - it's working perfectly now, thanks!)

Worth mentioning that when I put the door cards back on, the front door windows became harder to wind - it seemed like the door panels themselves were applying enough pressure against the glass to make it difficult to crank.