santts
Member
Do you use a crush washer on front drum hose threaded to brake cylinder.? Does it really matter ?
Crush washer on front drum rubber line to brake cylinder?
- Thread starter santts
- Start date
No I don't use it. New hose and cylinders don't come with them. Disk brake hoses do come with them, but that's because its a completely different fitting (banjo type).
Does it matter? It might - it might prevent the hose from seating properly in the wheel cylinder if the washer is too thick.
That soft copper "washer" is the SEAL for that location. Necessary.
They seem to be a bit universal across all carlines and brands, so usually available at local auto supplies and in the HELP! rack parts. Just take a bolt to match the size with.
IF the OEMs could have saved a few pennies by not using them, THEY would have. As they chose to spend that extra money, DO USE THEM.
CBODY67
They seem to be a bit universal across all carlines and brands, so usually available at local auto supplies and in the HELP! rack parts. Just take a bolt to match the size with.
IF the OEMs could have saved a few pennies by not using them, THEY would have. As they chose to spend that extra money, DO USE THEM.
CBODY67
santts
Member
Thank you I didn’t use it so far it’s fine . Such a mixed bag of answers
Drum brake wheel cylinders have inverted flare fittings, that's where the seal happens. Disk brake hoses (at least the ones I'm familiarl with) are flat-face and use banjo bolts and you have a larger flat area to seal so yes they come with copper washers.
When in doubt, follow what the OEMs did and don't look back. For them, when new, the cost of ONE product liability lawsuit would have quickly spent any amount of money they would have saved by not using that fluid junction SEAL. Those pennies you might save can be far outshone by the cost of bent sheet metal and paint.
CBODY67
CBODY67
santts
Member
Thanks for info appreciate. I’ve had no issues I changed yesterday and driving today .
70DartMike
Active Member
Some of the hoses I've installed don't have long enough threads to bottom out in the wheel cylinder. I always use the crush washer at the front wheel cylinders as an extra security measure to not have the front's leak. Nothing like that feeling of the brake pedal going to the floor while you're cruising down the highway coming up to a stoplight.
santts
Member
Understandable. I’m hoping it doesn’t. I mean I believe it would of by now but ya can never be to safe
No copper washer needed.
fury fan
Old Man with a Hat
As @MoPar~Man said, wheel cylinders have an inverted-flare seal in the inlet. So no seal/gasketing necessary.
And we recognize this especially at the rear wheels, where a loose tube-nut tightens the tube into the wheel cyl - there's no mating surface for a washer there.
But even more importantly, for a wheel cylinder to seal on the inverted flare, it must be able to get sufficient surface contact, under adequate clamp force.
It would create an additional tolerance complication if a copper washer is introduced, as it would be tough to economically manufacture the threads, flare, and washer thickness to all bottom out and tighten properly.
Now that I've said all of that - I see that Raybestos front wheel cyls on RA show a copper washer. But that is the only brand that does.
Their pic shows a pretty nice sealing surface.
The Dorman has what seems to be some core shift, and a section of sealing surface that is visibly narrower (and a nick, too!). But they don't seem to provide a washer anyway.
Overall, I'm sticking with the inverted flare does the sealing, esp as the rear tubing can't use a washer anyway and the wheel cylinders aren't spot-faced for it.
And we recognize this especially at the rear wheels, where a loose tube-nut tightens the tube into the wheel cyl - there's no mating surface for a washer there.
But even more importantly, for a wheel cylinder to seal on the inverted flare, it must be able to get sufficient surface contact, under adequate clamp force.
It would create an additional tolerance complication if a copper washer is introduced, as it would be tough to economically manufacture the threads, flare, and washer thickness to all bottom out and tighten properly.
Now that I've said all of that - I see that Raybestos front wheel cyls on RA show a copper washer. But that is the only brand that does.
Their pic shows a pretty nice sealing surface.
The Dorman has what seems to be some core shift, and a section of sealing surface that is visibly narrower (and a nick, too!). But they don't seem to provide a washer anyway.
Overall, I'm sticking with the inverted flare does the sealing, esp as the rear tubing can't use a washer anyway and the wheel cylinders aren't spot-faced for it.
volksworld
Well-Known Member
if it has an inverted flare at the bottom of the hole, you don't need a washer...if the hole is drilled straight through and open at the bottom, you need a washer...the same brake hose can fit multiple applications and will come with washers in case you need them which makes the part more universal...same reason the end of the hose has an inverted flare even though your application might not require it...fewer part numbers, smaller inventory required for the parts houses...wheel cylinders (and masters)have the same inverted flare whether they have a rubber hose attached to them or a metal line...the inverted flare seals the metal lines just fine by themselves and don't require a special fitting with a shoulder for a copper washer... now, if the flare in the hole is damaged or you're trying to use a hose where the threads are too short to reach the bottom, or the hose doesn't have an inverted flare or if it's damaged, a copper washer might get you out of a jam
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santts
Member
So far so good with the swap without the washer. So I have to agree. I have not seen one drop of fluid .
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
FWIW, I've used the washer provided with the cylinder and hose. Copper makes for a good seal. If one comes with your hardware, I would use it, but if not, I wouldn't seek it unless specifically instructed to use one.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
I recall when still driving with the single pot on Mathilda I'd failed to properly tighten the driver side wheel cylinder hose properly, and sure as **** lost plenty brake fluid. Thank the Lord, I'm a practiced stopper sans brakes, which I did when the pedal bottomed, using the transmission and the emergency brake. I topped the deathpot up, and we all made it home fine. I also tightened down that damned hose and washer good and proper in situ. Never told my Grrrlz QUITE how deadly that could have been.
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