58 Belvedere

evil666

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Hey there guys! I am requesting your help. We have a 1958 Belvedere. About 10 years ago we bought our Christine. Transmission had a recent rebuild, so I wanted to rebuild the 318. I pulled the motor, not knowing how to remove the torque converter from the crankshaft. So I have a few questions to reinstall :

From the transmission forward

1 Seal for the transmission

spin on the torque converter 3 times ??

Then you have 8 studs on the back of the torque converter. Is there a spacer that goes there around the studs before putting into the crankshaft?

Then I have 8 studs through the crankshaft, do I put lock washers with the nuts? Just nuts with locktight? What should the torque be for tightness?

If you can think of anything else I am missing that would be great.

Pics coming soon

Anyone remember this evil ? Thats our baby that we are putting back together.

https://video.search.yahoo.com/search/video;_ylt=AwrNPX1qxtVoEX8DEIj...

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I was going to suggest you post on the forward look forum but I see you already did. I don't understand your question about spinning the TC 3 times? Put the new pump seal in and turn the TC until it is fully seated. If I remember correctly the crank flange bolts do have washers, but it has been probably 25 years since I last did one.
 
The eight mounting nuts for the converter came with lock washers. Be sure to remove the rust from your input shaft before installing the converter and oil everything well before inserting the rear hub of the converter into the front seal. Rotate only enough to line up the teeth on the front shaft Ideally, this should be done with the transmission standing vertically so that the seal is not damaged by the converter rocking back and forth. There used to be a bracket to hold the converter in place, but those went obsolete many years ago. You should use guide bolts in the back of the engine when sliding the transmission into place. If the mounting studs for the converter do not line up, rotate the engine not the converter! This is important.

Dave
 
The eight mounting nuts for the converter came with lock washers. Be sure to remove the rust from your input shaft before installing the converter and oil everything well before inserting the rear hub of the converter into the front seal. Rotate only enough to line up the teeth on the front shaft Ideally, this should be done with the transmission standing vertically so that the seal is not damaged by the converter rocking back and forth. There used to be a bracket to hold the converter in place, but those went obsolete many years ago. You should use guide bolts in the back of the engine when sliding the transmission into place. If the mounting studs for the converter do not line up, rotate the engine not the converter! This is important.

Dave
Thank you all for your input. I would like to get this installed before winter. Then get the dual exhaust put on.
 
Do you have a factory service manual? They explain how to install and separate the automatic trans, and it's more like doing a manual trans than a 727.

Standing the trans on end and installing the converter is not needed or recommended.

I have a 1960 manual and the first action is bolt the converter and bellhousing to the engine.

Why can we see inside the front of your trans so well, looks like the front seal is not there.

The drive sleeve is on place and that's good, it won't work without it.
 
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