Leaf spring/Shackle issues 72 fury 3 Please help

jcksnpauls

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I’ve had one hell of a headache attempting to put in extended shackles in my 72 fury 3. Im 18 and getting absolutely humbled by my lack of knowledge. The goal was to give the car a slight rake to fulfill my hot rod desire, however after struggling to get them in, the leaf was totally de-arced and was lower than stock, and completely flattened. Talked to shop teachers and a few people that knew more than me and we decided I needed some upgraded/stiffer leaf springs. I dished out the money, and tossed them in and got almost completely similar results. Is there anything I can do to keep the arch in my springs and keep the slight rake? I’m tired of spending money and time to get the same results.

- attached is a photo of the old springs flattened. Any comments are much appreciated!

IMG_BF4067CB-899E-45E7-B986-ECF162AF9D46.jpeg


IMG_5200.jpeg
 
That is what happens with the long shackles.

If you want the car up a little, get some leaf springs with a couple inches of additional arch. To jack it up too far in the rear will change the front end geometry and the car will handle like crap.

And I'll be the first to ask if you are going to carry rabbits in the trunk....

 
That is what happens with the long shackles.

If you want the car up a little, get some leaf springs with a couple inches of additional arch. To jack it up too far in the rear will change the front end geometry and the car will handle like crap.

And I'll be the first to ask if you are going to carry rabbits in the trunk....


Yeah, that would make a lot of sense, too bad. I dished out too much money on some Leaf springs without that extended arch. I’m trying to figure out a way to keep the arch with the Leaf strings I have.
 
With the stock shackles and re arched springs you should have a rake,. The longer rear shackles don't really add much to the height as you found.
 
Extended shackles work on GM and Ford cars where the axle is more in the center of the leaf springs. They do NOT work on Chrysler products where the axle is mounted toward the front of the spring, forward of center. Period.

There are OTHER things that Chrysler did that Ford and GM did not do, too. As common and similar as the cars were back then, they were NOT "all the same". That "not the same" drove some people away from Chrysler products back then, just at it made some of us stronger proponents of Chrysler Products at the same time. WE knew, understood, and celebrated those differences.

No matter the brand of vehicle, whenever the REAR of the rocker panel gets higher than the front, it makes getting the specified amount of CASTER in the front end alignment more difficult as getting that adjustment completed depends upon how level the car is, sitting still. Less caster, less straight-line stability of the vehicle, especially at higher road speeds. Whether you use extended shackles, air shocks, front torsion bar adjustments, or over-arced rear leaf springs to do it.

Back in the late 1960s, a friend had a '65 Dodge Dart convertible. He put the longest rear shackles he could find (like 6") on it to raise the rear end on it. It MIGHT have raised the rear axle 1/4"! It made the rear section of the rear leaf springs "flat". ALL of whicih was on full display as the rear body section angled up toward the back bumper. Showing his intent and why it failed. With de-arced rear leaf springs.

I KNOW many in here will gnash their teeth, but the best way to get to what you wanted is "air shocks" (of which Monroe still sells them for many products). When I bought my '70 Monaco Brougham in 1975, it had seen trailer towing use. Already having "load leveler" "coil over" shocks on the back (and it still sat low in the back). With the closest spring shop 40 miles away and far too expensive to get new ones from Chrysler (if at all, at that time), I did the next-best thing and got some Gabriel Hi-Jackers rear air shocks tor it. Took 60psi to get the rocker panel level again (and the factory dual rear exh pipes not dragging any more)l. With those shocks, I can set the "rake" anywhere ai want it, but 60psi leveled it and that was all I wanted. Down here in TX, the rear shock crossmember is still intact, as I still have the car. For those who live up in snow country where salt is used and not washed off of the car's underbody, might not be viable up there, by comparison.

ONE other issue with a raised rear ride height is that the main part of the headlight beams will hit the ground far too close to the front of the car, highly compromising night-time vision "down the road" for safe freeway night driving. The headlight vertical aim is easily adjusted, though. Just don't adjust it so high it gets into the mirrors or sports cars in front of you.

CBODY67
 
Extended shackles work on GM and Ford cars where the axle is more in the center of the leaf springs. They do NOT work on Chrysler products where the axle is mounted toward the front of the spring, forward of center. Period.

There are OTHER things that Chrysler did that Ford and GM did not do, too. As common and similar as the cars were back then, they were NOT "all the same". That "not the same" drove some people away from Chrysler products back then, just at it made some of us stronger proponents of Chrysler Products at the same time. WE knew, understood, and celebrated those differences.

No matter the brand of vehicle, whenever the REAR of the rocker panel gets higher than the front, it makes getting the specified amount of CASTER in the front end alignment more difficult as getting that adjustment completed depends upon how level the car is, sitting still. Less caster, less straight-line stability of the vehicle, especially at higher road speeds. Whether you use extended shackles, air shocks, front torsion bar adjustments, or over-arced rear leaf springs to do it.

Back in the late 1960s, a friend had a '65 Dodge Dart convertible. He put the longest rear shackles he could find (like 6") on it to raise the rear end on it. It MIGHT have raised the rear axle 1/4"! It made the rear section of the rear leaf springs "flat". ALL of whicih was on full display as the rear body section angled up toward the back bumper. Showing his intent and why it failed. With de-arced rear leaf springs.

I KNOW many in here will gnash their teeth, but the best way to get to what you wanted is "air shocks" (of which Monroe still sells them for many products). When I bought my '70 Monaco Brougham in 1975, it had seen trailer towing use. Already having "load leveler" "coil over" shocks on the back (and it still sat low in the back). With the closest spring shop 40 miles away and far too expensive to get new ones from Chrysler (if at all, at that time), I did the next-best thing and got some Gabriel Hi-Jackers rear air shocks tor it. Took 60psi to get the rocker panel level again (and the factory dual rear exh pipes not dragging any more)l. With those shocks, I can set the "rake" anywhere ai want it, but 60psi leveled it and that was all I wanted. Down here in TX, the rear shock crossmember is still intact, as I still have the car. For those who live up in snow country where salt is used and not washed off of the car's underbody, might not be viable up there, by comparison.

ONE other issue with a raised rear ride height is that the main part of the headlight beams will hit the ground far too close to the front of the car, highly compromising night-time vision "down the road" for safe freeway night driving. The headlight vertical aim is easily adjusted, though. Just don't adjust it so high it gets into the mirrors or sports cars in front of you.

CBODY67
 
Extended shackles work on GM and Ford cars where the axle is more in the center of the leaf springs. They do NOT work on Chrysler products where the axle is mounted toward the front of the spring, forward of center. Period.

There are OTHER things that Chrysler did that Ford and GM did not do, too. As common and similar as the cars were back then, they were NOT "all the same". That "not the same" drove some people away from Chrysler products back then, just at it made some of us stronger proponents of Chrysler Products at the same time. WE knew, understood, and celebrated those differences.

No matter the brand of vehicle, whenever the REAR of the rocker panel gets higher than the front, it makes getting the specified amount of CASTER in the front end alignment more difficult as getting that adjustment completed depends upon how level the car is, sitting still. Less caster, less straight-line stability of the vehicle, especially at higher road speeds. Whether you use extended shackles, air shocks, front torsion bar adjustments, or over-arced rear leaf springs to do it.

Back in the late 1960s, a friend had a '65 Dodge Dart convertible. He put the longest rear shackles he could find (like 6") on it to raise the rear end on it. It MIGHT have raised the rear axle 1/4"! It made the rear section of the rear leaf springs "flat". ALL of whicih was on full display as the rear body section angled up toward the back bumper. Showing his intent and why it failed. With de-arced rear leaf springs.

I KNOW many in here will gnash their teeth, but the best way to get to what you wanted is "air shocks" (of which Monroe still sells them for many products). When I bought my '70 Monaco Brougham in 1975, it had seen trailer towing use. Already having "load leveler" "coil over" shocks on the back (and it still sat low in the back). With the closest spring shop 40 miles away and far too expensive to get new ones from Chrysler (if at all, at that time), I did the next-best thing and got some Gabriel Hi-Jackers rear air shocks tor it. Took 60psi to get the rocker panel level again (and the factory dual rear exh pipes not dragging any more)l. With those shocks, I can set the "rake" anywhere ai want it, but 60psi leveled it and that was all I wanted. Down here in TX, the rear shock crossmember is still intact, as I still have the car. For those who live up in snow country where salt is used and not washed off of the car's underbody, might not be viable up there, by comparison.

ONE other issue with a raised rear ride height is that the main part of the headlight beams will hit the ground far too close to the front of the car, highly compromising night-time vision "down the road" for safe freeway night driving. The headlight vertical aim is easily adjusted, though. Just don't adjust it so high it gets into the mirrors or sports cars in front of you.

CBODY67
Thank you this really helps, so if air shocks are the best option, what should I look for exactly?
 
There are really only two options. Monroe has one and Gabriel still builds their "HiJacker" line. Monroe's air bag is open to everything and Gabriel has a metal body extension to protect theirs'. Both work equally well. Just do not get crazy with the pressures such that the shock is extended all of the way, which puts LOTS of up and down forces into that upper mounting area.

CBODY67
 
It's pretty standard for these cars when working on the rear springs to re-spring them and add 1 leaf. At least that's what I did with my car. The leaf that gets added is a long one, between the main mounting leaf and the next one, mid-way in length between the two. I don't see that on yours. Your leafs don't look like they've been re-sprung.
 
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For the cognoscente, did not Chrysler design their leaf springs to be closer to flat for better drive-ability in corners and to resist sway? I know in the 60s they did, not sure what they did in 72. I see OP does have a little bit of arch there towards the axle but I cannot tell if the rear wheels are on the ground or not.

If it were me, I would drive it and see how it goes. It will probably drive decent enough. Spending money on reshaping springs/new springs/adding leafs may yield less then desirable results and a harsh ride. You've already spent money on springs..

Save your money for gas, you're gonna need it!
 
I was recommended going for the beefiest option that my C body , and they are seven Leaf believe it or not
Ive been trying to not comment, as usual I couldn't help myself.
Hard to believe those are seven leaf springs , im not seeing it.
The beefy 7 leaf springs will only add rigidity. Ordering the springs arched 1 or 2 inches over stock height from the manufacturer of the spring would have given you the rake you are looking for.
Lose the shackle extension and do it the correct way. Have the springs arched to meet your goal.
 
It's pretty standard for these cars when working on the rear springs to re-spring them and add 1 leaf. At least that's what I did with my car. The leaf that gets added is a long one, between the main mounting leaf and the next one, mid-way in length between the two. I don't see that on yours. Your leafs don't look like they've been re-sprung.
This is what I have always done!

I re-arch the springs with my press, one at a time. I then take a main spring from a second used set, cut off the ends, re-arch that and put it all back together. This has always worked for me and usually ends up giving 1 to 3 inches of lift depending on how saggy the springs were to begin with. I will be doing this on my 70 SF soon and will post.
 
Thank you this really helps, so if air shocks are the best option, what should I look for exactly?
I would avoid the air shocks. I made that mistake in my misguided youth and ended up destroying the upper shock mounts on my 72 Dart. Of course I was running them at about 90psi so the a$$ was up about 4 inches. LOL
 
I would avoid the air shocks. I made that mistake in my misguided youth and ended up destroying the upper shock mounts on my 72 Dart. Of course I was running them at about 90psi so the a$$ was up about 4 inches. LOL
Just bought them so we will see what happens, definitely will be more careful about psi, and keep an eye on it!
 
Two to four inches of rise over good condition stock height non sagging springs may need only about 60 to 80 pounds air pressure.
But, if a big Mopar is already sagging 4 inches, it would need north of 120 pounds of air just to get it back to stock height plus two inches.
Have at it. And expect some handling anomalies, most noticeable in tight turns over 40 mph. Over steer.
 
That is what happens with the long shackles.

If you want the car up a little, get some leaf springs with a couple inches of additional arch. To jack it up too far in the rear will change the front end geometry and the car will handle like crap.

And I'll be the first to ask if you are going to carry rabbits in the trunk....


I just love that movie!!!!
 
Ive heard some negative about load leveler, coil assist rear shocks, I have used them in the past on my 300's. I have a set for one I have now, just havnt got them on yet. Gives a decent lift until new springs can be obtained, only issue I have noticed is a little stiffer ride.
 
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