Newport royal 440 swap?

Joseph Burke

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I am thinking hard about swapping a 440 into my 71 New Port Royal Factory 360 car the only thing is I just recently rebuilt the front suspension so unless I can use the lower control arms and everything with the new Big Block K member I probably won't, can anyone here tell me if it's just the K member I would need to replace or would I have to replace the control arms and everything,
 
If your putting the 440 in place of the 360 you will need a big block transmission thats it the 440 will bolt in change nothing
 
Really wow I had to go look myself, 9 yeas iv had this car and never realized it didn't unbolt like my 68 Barracuda
 
I have a 69 300 parts car that's wrecked and badly rusted but has a build able 440 and transmission thanks for the information time to get to work
 
You will be wanting to upgrade the rear end to an 8 3/4 also. Some 360 equipped cars had the heavier rear end, usually the ones with 4BBL carbs, the rest usually did not. Making this type of transplant from a donor car usually works the best. The small stuff like power steering brackets, A/C mounts, etc is what can drive you nuts.

Dave
 
I am thinking hard about swapping a 440 into my 71 New Port Royal Factory 360 car the only thing is I just recently rebuilt the front suspension so unless I can use the lower control arms and everything with the new Big Block K member I probably won't, can anyone here tell me if it's just the K member I would need to replace or would I have to replace the control arms and everything,
I have done the same to my 1972 Fury with 360. The 440 is tight fit. My understanding is that it is not a K member as in other MOPARs. Needed Schumacher small block to big block motor mounts. Also the transmission Housing is different. I went with a big block rebuild transmission 727. It has been a big project for me, but should be complete soon. Good luck. I would still want the 440 knowing the efforts involved.
 
If your car is a 71 it already has a 8 3/4 rear end mine guessing its a 741 case which might brake u jionts under the 440 power if the 69 has a 489 id put that in and the drive shaft.dont forget to put a 26 inch radiator in the 22 will not cool the engine
 
Yes has 8 3/4 in it but it's making noise car has 134000 on it so probably needs a rebuild not sure witch 8 3/4 it is I'll check
 
I have done the same to my 1972 Fury with 360. The 440 is tight fit. My understanding is that it is not a K member as in other MOPARs. Needed Schumacher small block to big block motor mounts. Also the transmission Housing is different.

My understanding is that big block and small block V8 stub frames are the same. IOW, stock big block motor mounts should bolt right on. Did you try OEM BB motor mounts on your 72?
 
So it will bolt to the 360 K member

Yes.

FYI, C Body cars do not have a K frame. A, B & E Body cars are unibody construction and use a K frame, which is essentially an engine cradle for mounting the drivetrain etc. to the unibody. C Body cars are semi- unibody construction with a bolt on front sub or stub-frame. All V8 C Body cars had the same engine mounting bracket no matter which size V8 was put in the car. 73's use a different spool mount engine mounting bracket. Only the slant six powered cars used different engine mounting brackets but otherwise the front stub-frames are the same in terms of the engine mounts.

I would recommend using the Schumacher Poly-Loc engine mounts as the quality of the factory replacement solid rubber mounts are not what they used to be.

One other consideration is your front torsion bars. I would suggest that you look at a 71 parts book and see which torsion bar part numbers are used with which engine. You would probably be fine with your 360 torsion bars if you are putting in a basically stock big block in your car.
 
The '72 and prior cars, as did cars from other manufacturers, used the "sandwich" style mount. Two metal plates with rubber between them. Time and age would deteriorate the rubber. Then a firm WOT application and a firm shift would "delaminate" the metal from the rubber . . . which generated the famous GM "motor mount retention cable kits" of the later '60s. Some later mounts were made "fail-safe" as they had internal structure to keep the motor from moving too much, when the rubber failed.

The Shumacher PolyLocs have that internal structure. Maybe even a polyurethane section which would otherwise be rubber?

Remember that torsion bars vs. Plymouth, Dodge, Chrysler are specific to the carline (possibly8 except station wagon models). Lengths are different. I believe the factory a/c cars still came with the same bars as a non-a/c car with HD suspension? The FSM will detail the bar diameters in the suspension section.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
The '72 and prior cars, as did cars from other manufacturers, used the "sandwich" style mount. Two metal plates with rubber between them. Time and age would deteriorate the rubber. Then a firm WOT application and a firm shift would "delaminate" the metal from the rubber . . . which generated the famous GM "motor mount retention cable kits" of the later '60s. Some later mounts were made "fail-safe" as they had internal structure to keep the motor from moving too much, when the rubber failed.

The Shumacher PolyLocs have that internal structure. Maybe even a polyurethane section which would otherwise be rubber?

Remember that torsion bars vs. Plymouth, Dodge, Chrysler are specific to the carline (possibly8 except station wagon models). Lengths are different. I believe the factory a/c cars still came with the same bars as a non-a/c car with HD suspension? The FSM will detail the bar diameters in the suspension section.

Enjoy!
CBODY67


Correct, FSM gives the right number. As a general rule small block cars, big block cars and Police cruisers all use a different number. Look at the back of the torsion bar where it goes into the socket, they have a number stamped on them. Then look up the appropriate torsion bar number for the application you are creating and go with that numbered bar.

Dave
 
Of course to do so is to change the whole purpose of the "Newport Royale." That specific car was the first Chrysler with a small block, ever since the introduction of the B/RB blocks. All Chryslers had one until 1971 when your car was introduced. To drop a big block into your car would be like dropping a poly motor into a 300 C.
 
I have thought about sticking with the 360 it's a great engine IMO but needs a rebuild for sure and i seem to have everything needed to go 440 it's I tough decision
Thanks for all the information I appreciate it seems I have learned a lot in the last day or two
 
Correct, FSM gives the right number. As a general rule small block cars, big block cars and Police cruisers all use a different number. Look at the back of the torsion bar where it goes into the socket, they have a number stamped on them. Then look up the appropriate torsion bar number for the application you are creating and go with that numbered bar.

Dave

The size and use of different sized torsion bars varied significantly during the C Body era. Interestingly, the '68 Fury 318 cars on which a front sway bar was optional used the same torsion bars as the 440 cars when the optional front sway bar was not ordered. That meant one less thing that I had to concern myself with when I put a 520" stroker engine in my formerly 318 powered 68 Sport Fury and since it was going to be a street/strip car I did not care about having a front sway bar and the car drives just as good as it did when it was 318 powered.
 
You're not going to do anything but increase the value of the car with a good running, well installed 440 over the 360. "I wish you had kept the original 360 in there since it was the first Chrysler model to be de-contented to shave a few bucks off the list price" said no future owner ever :) Your other car should have the BB trans, trans mount, driveshaft potentially, shifter linkage, etc.
I'd pick the best condition radiator you have of the lot and start with it.
A 741 case is not really weak, it gets a bad wrap. Pretty sure I saw a Dr. Diff blog that says it's about as big as a GM 12 bolt. I've drag raced with them and been ok. Not the one to use with 600hp, but that's not this build.
 
Looked today has a 489 case , makes a little noise though at hWY speeds
Whine or grumble?
I have thought about sticking with the 360 it's a great engine IMO but needs a rebuild for sure and i seem to have everything needed to go 440 it's I tough decision
Not tough, put the BB in it.

All your trans linkage will fit same as small block trans (bell housing bolt pattern only difference)
I would steal the T bars and sway bar out of BB car
 
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