Where's my current Mopar techs?

67Monaco

Old Man with a Hat
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Have a quick question about a 2016 T&C with the 3.3 VVT engine.

The wife went on a trip to Tampa the other day. For us that about 200 miles round trip. Came back with a tick. Seems to be half speed to me so I'm thinking valve train. Oddly, it doesn't tick when cold only after it's had time to warm up after a drive.

Oil level is good, but has a fuel smell to it so I'll be doing a change on it this weekend. should I try a different weight oil? I imagine that will mess with the VVT like a heavier oil would on the MDS engines. Correct assumption?

Anything these things are notorious for?
 
Shouldn't it still be under warranty?
 
The wife went on a trip to Tampa the other day. For us that about 200 miles round trip. Came back with a tick.

Is there a drag.strip in the area that.your wife drove to in the Tampa area? Just curious.
 
Is there a drag.strip in the area that.your wife drove to in the Tampa area? Just curious.


Yes, But she isn't the type. Me? yes. Her? No.

Yes it should be under warranty. BUT if it's like the 4.7's there's not a damn thing that can be done to quite the little F'ers down and if the 3.3's have the same rep I may not worry too much about it. The servicing dealer is 50 miles away. I'd take it to the local guys but in two dealings with them I have a deep seeded distrust of them. So there's that.
 
A 2016 should have a 3.6l DOHC engine, I have seen a couple with camshafts worn by bad rocker arms. I changed out a Intake cam and rockers on a Chrysler 200 a while back, rear bank of the engine. It had a misfire and noise.
 
A 2016 should have a 3.6l DOHC engine, I have seen a couple with camshafts worn by bad rocker arms. I changed out a Intake cam and rockers on a Chrysler 200 a while back, rear bank of the engine. It had a misfire and noise.


3.6. you are correct. Don't know why I thought it was a 3.3. maybe because I knew it wasn't the 3.8.

IMG_20181025_194314118.jpg
 
You didn't notice the better fuel economy and power from the 3.6L?

VVT needs the correct viscosity oil in it for that mechanism to work correctly.

IF the oil has a fuel smell, it might be an injector, so get it to the dealer at the first opportunity.

CBODY67
 
Have a quick question about a 2016 T&C with the 3.3 VVT engine.

The wife went on a trip to Tampa the other day. For us that about 200 miles round trip. Came back with a tick. Seems to be half speed to me so I'm thinking valve train. Oddly, it doesn't tick when cold only after it's had time to warm up after a drive.

Oil level is good, but has a fuel smell to it so I'll be doing a change on it this weekend. should I try a different weight oil? I imagine that will mess with the VVT like a heavier oil would on the MDS engines. Correct assumption?

Anything these things are notorious for?
IDK anything first hand about the specific engine... do change the oil, don't mess with the oil specs (even synthetic vs conventional can have a negative impact)

You're better equipped to search the internet for information, but don't repair it yourself. If you are to have ongoing problems with this, you want a warranty history JIC the factory is willing to step up for future out of warranty repairs. Be cautious that earlier engine problems may not be the same as what your later engine has going wrong.

Wish I was more useful...
 
IDK anything first hand about the specific engine... do change the oil, don't mess with the oil specs (even synthetic vs conventional can have a negative impact)

You're better equipped to search the internet for information, but don't repair it yourself. If you are to have ongoing problems with this, you want a warranty history JIC the factory is willing to step up for future out of warranty repairs. Be cautious that earlier engine problems may not be the same as what your later engine has going wrong.

Wish I was more useful...


Yeah I assume it's a rocker going/gone bad. But I'd think it'd make more noise cold than warm. Cold the damn thing sounds like a sewing machine. Warm, ick.
 
Yeah I assume it's a rocker going/gone bad. But I'd think it'd make more noise cold than warm. Cold the damn thing sounds like a sewing machine. Warm, ick.

That's very different from my 3.6. It was noisy when cold, quiet when warm. It had 5 bad rocker arms, dealer replaced all 24 under warranty with an updated part. That was Jan - Feb this year. Had nearly 80,000 miles then.

Robert
 
Sorry late to the party. I own a 2016 T&C so I used my VIN to search TSB's this is the only mention of valvetrain noise FYI" Note - Links will not work as they are FCA Internal web-based

09 - Engine, 3.6L / Cylinder Head / LIFTER(S), Hydraulic / Diagnosis and Testing
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC LIFTER(S) NOISE DIAGNOSIS
Proper noise diagnosis is essential in locating the source of an NVH complaint. Locating a lash adjuster (tappet) type noise can sometimes be difficult. As a result, an initial misdiagnosis may occur.

Refer to the following chart for possible causes and correction of a lash adjuster (tappet) type noise.


(Refer to 09 - Engine/Cylinder Head/LIFTER(S) , Hydraulic - Removal).

(a) A collapsed lash adjuster(s) will remain in a compressed state with no external force and no return force from the spring. This is caused when debris jams the piston causing the top plunger of the lash adjuster to stay collapsed in the bottom housing. If the lash adjuster(s) are confirmed to be collapsed, replace the lash adjuster(s)

(b) A spongy lash adjuster(s) will return to its original state after being compressed. This is caused by air trapped in the lash adjuster(s)or debris blocking the check ball. The lash adjuster(s) will compress under a force and be returned to the original position under a spring force. If the lash adjuster(s) are confirmed to be spongy, repeat Step 2 as further run time may be required to de-aerate the lash adjuster(s). After repeating Step 2, see Steps 1, 4, 5, and 8.



4. Low oil pressure.

4. See below:

(a) Check and correct the engine oil level.

(b) Check the engine oil pressure (Refer to 09 - Engine/Lubrication - Diagnosis and Testing) .

(c) Check for excessive main bearing clearance and correct (Refer to 09 - Engine/Engine Block/BEARING(S) , Crankshaft - Standard Procedure).

(d) Check for a worn oil pump (Refer to 09 - Engine/Lubrication/PUMP, Engine Oil - Inspection) .

Check the camshaft journals and the bearing bores for abnormal wear patterns, scoring, grooving, fatigue, pitting or a foreign material (Refer to 09 - Engine/Cylinder Head/CAMSHAFT, Engine - Removal) .






5. A plugged oil restrictor in the oil passages to the cylinder head(s).

5. Check the cylinder head oil passages for blockage. Clean or replace as necessary.

6. Worn valve guide(s).

6. Measure the valve stem-to-guide clearance (Refer to 09 - Engine/Cylinder Head/VALVES, Intake and Exhaust - Inspection) .

7. Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maximum extension and still leaves lash in the system.

7. See below:

(a) Check the camshaft journal and lobe for abnormal wear patterns, scoring, grooving, fatigue, pitting or a foreign material (Refer to 09 - Engine/Cylinder Head/CAMSHAFT, Engine - Removal) .

(b) Check the rocker arm(s) for proper alignment to the camshaft lobe(s) and valve stem(s) (Refer to 09 - Engine/Cylinder Head/ROCKER ARM, Valve/Removal) .

(c) Check the lash adjuster(s) for proper operation and replace as necessary (Refer to 09 - Engine/Cylinder Head/LIFTER(S) , Hydraulic - Removal).




8. Air ingested into the engine oil due to a broken or cracked oil pump pickup tube.

8. Check the pickup tube and replace as necessary (Refer to 09 - Engine/Lubrication/PICK-UP, Oil Pump - Removal) .

9. Faulty lash adjuster.

9. Replace the lash adjuster(s) (Refer to 09 - Engine/Cylinder Head/LIFTER(S) , Hydraulic - Removal).
 
Did you ever find the source of the ticking?

This just popped up in my recommended viewing today, but I don't think it's what you have, since you said your issue was half speed. This would likely be a crank speed noise.



Jeff
 
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