Recent content by Missourati

So I replaced the alternator, voltage regulator, starter solenoid, ran my bypass wire, eliminated the ammeter entirely and she's running beautifully. No overheating, battery charging fine. I put fusible links on the positive battery wire, both ends of the ammeter and bypass wires so it's much...

Alright I hooked everything up, got a new battery, cables, alternator, and voltage regulator. I'm going to put fusible links on both ends of both ammeter and bypass wires just to be safe. I tested it out and the bypass is working very well. I'll keep an eye on it but I think once everything is...

One question I have is why would just the brights and hazards on put over 20 amps through the ammeter wire with the ignition off? Because that means the overheating problem isn't just a 60 amp alternator overloading the ammeter, it's also pushing too much current from the battery through...

Alright I got some 8 gauge wire from Lowe's and some ring connectors. I bridged the alternator battery output terminal with the positive battery stud on the starter relay and was going to test out how much amperage it sucked from the ammeter wire but I left my park lights on and have a dead...

Alright sorry for the delay. I got a nice clamp multimeter and read the amps going through the now spliced ammeter wires. On accessory it draws about 7 amps, with brights and hazards it draws nearly 23 amps and gets the bypassed ammeter wire hot. With engine idling its in the high teens. With...

It has an alternator. The only thing I can think of is I'm 99% sure it's got a new(er) alternator that puts out 60 amps and as per my service manual, the original was for 35-40 amps. The weird thing is I used to drive it all the time and it would smoke from time to time but never like this...

I cut out the ammeter wires and made a little connector wire with alligator clips to check the amps and turned it over when it started slightly smoking again. The wires get nuclear almost immediately so I'm going to go with the engine bay bypass solution. What is the step by step so I don't lose...

Could I also insert a single fuse block, and if so what amperage?

Good ol ammeter. I think Ralph Nader missed one with this terrific design. Thank god the dash was apart and I saw it smoking otherwise I would have had a surprise barbecue. I want to bypass it entirely but need to know the safest way so this doesn't pop up again. I saw a lot of people using...

No it's not bottoming out. Seems to work fine for what it is.

Here's the full assembly, notice the huge gap between the steering wheel hub and the part that goes over the turn signal switch. I would think this is what's supposed to keep it pushed down but I also noticed the flathead screw that connects the base to the turn signal arm was broken, maybe that...

I'm pretty sure the snap ring is in place. All I took out was the 2 screws that hold the assembly in place and then reinstalled it. I don't have the factory wheel anymore so I use a crappy speedway universal type. I'll get pictures of how it looks with the hub on in a bit.

The lever meaning the whole C shaped piece that rotates. On the right side there's the piece that sticks straight out and is held by the spring. On the opposite side is a hole that the little dowel on the turn signal switch fits into. That's what keeps sliding out of place. The C shaped piece...

I noticed the turn signal lever keeps popping out of place and I have to pull back on the handle to reengage it. The spring clip also moves up on the two posts and nearly falls out with repeated movement. I see the flat part that seems to touch the steering wheel hub but when I put it on and...

Hey all, I've got a 61 Dart Seneca with 225 and I'm trying to fix basically all the lights. I tried troubleshooting the brake lights malfunctioning and broke the male connector in the stop light switch on the master cylinder in the process. I am trying to figure out what kind of connectors they...