Search results for query: cams

...horsepower. IF that might matter. Plus the '68 heads have the 1.74" exhaust valves, which the 413 heads would need to be machined to have. Cams? Newer is almost always better, period. Duration and lift might not be that much different, but timing events are. Just some thoughts, CBODY67

Look at Lunati Cams, some of which Summit sells for a good price. But with the smaller engine, it can be easier to over-cam it than with a 440, for example. They, like CompCams, have or used to have some cams with assymetrical lobes that puts more area under the lift curve for better cyl...

...Do the heads this winter. Splits the money up and I won't be pulling the dampener with the sheet metal on. https://store.440source.com/Comp-Cams-Hydraulic-Roller-Retrofit-Cam-230_236-541_537/productinfo/145%2D1711/ This seems like a good fit, 440 source is great value for money, so I might...

I'm willing to bet it has this comp cams timing set in there maybe this?

...than purely for drag racing (as the orig 6-71 were used for). The one advantage is that any huffer can compensate for poor cyl head intake port designs. Which ALSO means an upsized exhaust system and headers will be needed. What are recommendations from BDS as to cams and such? Enjoy! CBODY67

I'd like to see a picture of the old cams gear when you take it off. Mine still had all of the plastic on the teeth.

...1971. Including the CR figures. I didn't remember that 8.8CR, but then I was not paying attention to or aware of how Chrysler was changing the cams and such in particular cars, back then. I DO remember the 383 2bbls going from 9.2 to 8.7, though. I was only concerned about the 383s and...

Unfortunately do not have a good suggestion for a cam. Just lost a comp cam in a 1970 440 engine, one lifter went REALLY bad and two more were about to. Won't use comp cams again.

...to incompatibility and compromises reliability. Do your homework to ensure all mods will work together. I experienced first hand the flat tappet camshaft failure debacle and it is still rampant unless you spend $$ on roller cams. Not to mention any project can and will empty your bank...

The "cam connection" in effective compression ratio is where the cam actions increase the cylinder pressure above what it normally would be via better "cylinder filling". The original Comp Cams HE-series cams were reputed to do this. Not sure about any others, fwiw. CBODY67

RV is a reference to a stock-type cam, but with a bit more lift and maybe a little more duration, to provide more torque.

Hughes whiplash cams are advertised to bring compression up

All stock cams (except 440-6 and 426HEMI) have a "one hole" attachment (one cam bolt holding the sprocket to the cam). The 440-6 and 426HEMI stock cams have three bolts holding the sprocket to the cam, hence "three bolt". Aftermarket cams come either way. All aftermarket timing chain sets...

Roller cams make more power for sure because of the lift area under the lobe, for a given lift and duration the roller will be open further for a longer duration, and you also get the benefit of reduced friction with the roller contacting the cam instead of relying on a flat tappet's face...

...why you cant accomplish what you want with a flat tappet cam...however with all the horror stories out there about bad lifters and current cams losing lobes i think the roller is a $500 insurance policy by the builder that the thing is going to stay together... there's a you tube out there...

Crap! Now I'm worried about mine. . .

...rear axle from the rear of the transmission, too. Might need to emulate the '65+ system to do that? Might stay away from the "Purple Stripe" cams, all things considered. The original "Purple Stripe" cams were a good bit more radical than the stock cams were back then. As in the "Street...

"Over-camming" is just that, "too radical" as when the CID decreases, the same cams that work well in a 383 or larger, "get larger" in relation to the CID of the motor. This all happens kind fo on a sliding scale, gradually, until you get to an "on-off" area on the curve. Manipulating some...

...quicker, just worried I'll break something else, especially in a freshly rebuilt A727. Edit: adding in the machine stamping from the other thread. Upon further review, correction, the block is a 65' casting but I'm hoping the 66' cams kind of "bled" into the early 65/66 blocks. Casting...

Where does it say that?