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Wanted...running 74-76 dodge monaco or plymouth fury 4 door.

I just don't see the problem. . . :poke:

You have to work at getting a flare nut wrench to slip. By any chance were you using a metric sized wrench? That said, once you start rounding off the nut, the vise grips become your tool of choice.

1. Yes, correct. Y1.......and a 6 printed in the box. Y16. 2. Yeah, I think I've seen it on a pal's A12 RR. 3. 4. "One could look for seat ID tags under to seat to check assembly dates. This would be one way to figure it out." Good idea! And yes, it wouldn't be on the BS because it would...

Didnt seem to fit in any of the for sale categories. Nice shape. $15 plus shipping or pick up at Mopars in the park or Carlisle. billyfury

Looks really nice :thumbsup:

What was coded, when it was coded, and even where it was coded on a tag varies year to year, plant to plant and even within the model year. Jefferson plant tags are unique. Their coding protocol is actually closer to the Lynch Road plant than other plants. If you have ANY 70 Jefferson tag that...

like @fury fan said, thats nice sled at that price IF floors/frame are good, not seized up, etc too freaking far away for me to acquire & land in my warehouse 2,500 miles away at that price. only way id otherwise touch it. I am not a player ... just too far away. if it really was at a $9k...

Well - I've tied to steer clear of the "since I am here anyway" black hole of car projects in the last several years. I used to be a firm believer in the "might as well...." doctrine, but I now realize how much time, fun and frankly years that sort of thinking steals from you - your car ends up...

I went to the car show in Athens I had a awesome time I didn’t win but the show only gives out 1 trophy but there is no judging on the cars

Following! Best of luck!

I assume its main purpose is to crack loose different bleeders, but if "spread a bit wider" it is possible to squeeze a line inside of the wrench and use it in such situations.

Hi, couple of things, Only Roadrunner and SuperBee had the 335hp 383 . pretty much looks original 383/330hp, should have dual snorkel air cleaner, and I believe 10:1:

I have set of these flare nut wrenches, but this wrench still was stripping the nut. I've also tried universal wrench, but it was either el-cheapo one, or nut is too small for proper grip - it was spinning too. Vice grips and pipe wrench was the last method, since it's easy to destroy nut...

the 335 wasnt offered in c body plymouths. the 330 hp is 10 to 1, the 2v 383 was 9.2 to 1

1. Do you mean Y16? 2. Agree. code 38 on the BS is found with many other Y39 cars. It's one of many codes used on BSs. The designation on the sheet is common and expected. 3. 4. Agree to the designation. Disagree with the possibly of it being a freak. IF that was true, then we should expect to...

Fair enough. But if you just bought the car, would you immediately tear down to the short block and send the heads off just to put hardened seats in? If you did, what else would you do simply because you were in the neighborhood? To the heads, or to the rest of the engine? It snowballs quickly.

Turquoise inside and out, white top. :wideyed:

That's the best rear bumper I've ever seen on a $1900 car. Front bumper looks decent too, just can't tell if it's as nice as the rear one.

I prefer using the Vice Grip line wrench vs a flare nut wrench set. The 7LW would be perfect for this. Use the 4LW for brake lines...