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Seems like the 727 could be paired with any /6 or L/LA motor for "HD" or "Fleet" applications? OF course, with the particular bellhousing bolt pattern. Especially in C-body cars. CBODY67

This is a OEM Small Block Power Steering Brackets. I believe these are both Power Steering brackets, They were in a box marked 1970 340. $30.00. Local pickup, or buyer pays shipping.

The headrests are cracked. I may get them covered until I can find better replacements.

I don't think the valves would cause any vibrations. Maybe some clicking noise, but that should be all. Aside from the ball and trunnion and the rear universal joint, maybe the drive shaft has a slight bend or is out of balance.

I guess if this is a one time need, this might not be for you. I have a farm and about 7 classic cars in the works so I make my own cables. You can get the terminals with a solder pot you drop in, heat and it seals terrifically, then heat shrink to seal it up again. Cheaper than trying to find...

This is a OEM Big Block Torque Converter & Flex Plate. It came out of a 1969 Coronet R/T with a 440ci. engine, but will work with any BB Mopar with a internally balanced forged crank. It is a stock original converter, NOT a high stall converter. It includes the four OEM bolts to mount the flex...

Sending pm.

Try Evans: Evans wiring Engine Wiring Harness

My '67 Monaco (a Canadian car) came with a poly 318 and a 727. Or at least I've always had the recollection it was a 727. You, and this 2018 Hemmings article, have me wondering: https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/torqueflite-a904-transmissions They say 318's (and 360's) were always...

Does anyone know of a source that sells negative battery cables, with the body ground having a terminal (not a butt connector like the auto parts stores ones have) in ready made lengths? (See photo) I bought this 24-inch one 20+ years ago. Now I could use a 30-inch one. This is for my 72...

Don't forget about the ball and trunnion joint at the front of the driveshaft. Was it taken apart, checked out and greased?

Make sure all the bolt holes are free of debris and old sealer. I had some bolts reach torque but not holding the pan tight enough to seal.

My 50 rpm drop with the pcv plugged is my estimate. I never did pay attention to the dwell tach reading for that, just noted that with everything adjusted to spec, the rpm did drop a bit, but not drastically. Ported vacuum has always been the default for decades, going well back into the 1950s...

You would need to have the 2 metal parts called 'clamp'. And potentially the centerpin hole in the axle's spring perches might need to be enlarged. IIRC the mid-late 70s cars all used ISO-clamp, and the one car I fiddled with had large holes in the perches.

It seems to stop vibrating when in neutral. Since it's "break in" I need to adjust the valves and make a compression check later this week.

The correct fill tube Oring is actually flat sided, not round. The hardware store round profiled rings pretty much always leak, sometimes worse than the original worn out square profile ones do. Kevin

Run the car down the road for a mile or two in a lower gear keeping the engine rpms around 2500 to 3000 then pull the offending plugs. If they're still black, you have a fuel distribution problem. If they've burned off he carbon fouling, your choke was most likely the culprit and you just...

Still amazed at your analysis....well done. I dont disagree with the point on the size of the new AVS, and that may be true....not sure, but the OEM AFB was a bit smaller, and of course, designed for street work at low rpm and not performance......and the new stuff moves to performance. So...

I've used Detroit Eaton springs on Fords, General Motors and MoPars for decades.