Search results for query: *

If you have a shop vac, I'd soak the area with water and then use the shop vac to dry it and basically keep doing the same, alternate soaking with water and vaccing it up. I don't think using soap will help, the ethelyene glycol is easily dissoved in water so you don't need the soap to do...

Maybe on the GM system but even those are a PITA to work on (OBD2 is going to be 30 years old in 2 model years. Best I can tell in FSM is the Imperial uses 360 head of the day, as per valve specs, calls for 1.88/1.60, I have not looked at the casting numbers on head in my car. I did get a...

This is a Old School Mallory Voltmaster high performance Coil, with the mounting bracket. Part #28675. It is in good working condition. $30.00. Local pickup, or buyer pays shipping.

I was curious about this. Radiator pressure tests (according to the '65 FSM) are done to 15PSI. At the same time, the cap is rated at 14PSI for non-AC cars and 16PSI for AC cars. That cap is basically a relief valve. That really doesn't make sense to me.... I would expect a pressure test...

If it's old I would not put any undue pressure on it as you may create a new problem. Best bet is to flush system every two years. That is what I do. If it does not leak, run it!

WILL DO THAT TOMORROW

This prompts a question. What is the best way to test the integrity of a heater core? My engineering background would suggest a hydrostatic pressure test, but at what pressure? Perhaps there is a better way. Lindsay

oh wow i didn't know there were any patch panels for these things. Might have to get some for my heap.

I'm thinking I found the/another reason for bearing spacers. On the setup I'm mocking up, there is only about 1/8" clearance between the back surface of the rotor and the outboard mounting surface of the spindle. Not enough thickness for a bracket. Without the resources to do any FEA on...

Double check your heater valve too as it may not be far behind the heater core (unless you've already replaced it).

So the options on your car so far as I can see/know of are: sport tone trim and paint in that awesome rare wine color and white, bumper wing guards, (probably white walls - there is no way sport tone and bumper wings without white wall tires) V8, (likely auto transmission), twin mirrors, heater...

If it was running before the "mechanic" got his hands on it, do you still have the points and condenser he took out? If you do, I would try putting them back in to see what happens. What was the reason he was working on the car in the first place? Was it running poorly and you wanted a tune up...

I would start with water and a wet/dry vac. The stain is likely fine lime scale from the copper corroding so if the water fails to get it out, I would try some diluted CLR promptly vacuumed out and neutralized with water once or twice.

Found on ebay.com. I'm not sure if it is a factory 4-speed: https://www.ebay.com/itm/305463402842

..yes:

Can you measure for thickness?

For Sale: 1960 Dodge Dart Seneca 4dr Sedan, 6-cyl. manual shift - Project - $4,000 - Yorktown, IN 1960 Dodge Dart Seneca for sale by owner - Daleville, IN - craigslist Seller's Description: Perfect for someone who wants to fix up a classic car. Only superficial rust--body is in great shape...

If the points aren't opening he wouldn't have any spark. How to tell if distributor points are bad? First check for power to the coil. If you have 12v there, then manually open the points and check for spark from the coil. If no spark, remove the wire from the points and manually "spark" it...