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If it's old I would not put any undue pressure on it as you may create a new problem. Best bet is to flush system every two years. That is what I do. If it does not leak, run it!

WILL DO THAT TOMORROW

This prompts a question. What is the best way to test the integrity of a heater core? My engineering background would suggest a hydrostatic pressure test, but at what pressure? Perhaps there is a better way. Lindsay

oh wow i didn't know there were any patch panels for these things. Might have to get some for my heap.

I'm thinking I found the/another reason for bearing spacers. On the setup I'm mocking up, there is only about 1/8" clearance between the back surface of the rotor and the outboard mounting surface of the spindle. Not enough thickness for a bracket. Without the resources to do any FEA on...

Double check your heater valve too as it may not be far behind the heater core (unless you've already replaced it).

So the options on your car so far as I can see/know of are: sport tone trim and paint in that awesome rare wine color and white, bumper wing guards, (probably white walls - there is no way sport tone and bumper wings without white wall tires) V8, (likely auto transmission), twin mirrors, heater...

If it was running before the "mechanic" got his hands on it, do you still have the points and condenser he took out? If you do, I would try putting them back in to see what happens. What was the reason he was working on the car in the first place? Was it running poorly and you wanted a tune up...

I would start with water and a wet/dry vac. The stain is likely fine lime scale from the copper corroding so if the water fails to get it out, I would try some diluted CLR promptly vacuumed out and neutralized with water once or twice.

Found on ebay.com. I'm not sure if it is a factory 4-speed: https://www.ebay.com/itm/305463402842

..yes:

Can you measure for thickness?

For Sale: 1960 Dodge Dart Seneca 4dr Sedan, 6-cyl. manual shift - Project - $4,000 - Yorktown, IN 1960 Dodge Dart Seneca for sale by owner - Daleville, IN - craigslist Seller's Description: Perfect for someone who wants to fix up a classic car. Only superficial rust--body is in great shape...

If the points aren't opening he wouldn't have any spark. How to tell if distributor points are bad? First check for power to the coil. If you have 12v there, then manually open the points and check for spark from the coil. If no spark, remove the wire from the points and manually "spark" it...

2265218 RF BRAKE DRUM/HUB PAINTED RED 1957-62 Imperial Used 3004973 LF BRAKE DRUM FINNED TYPE 1969 NOS 3780526 REAR BRAKE DRUM same as 3549843 11X2 inches 1974-75 Plymouth, Dodge NOS 25.00 each plus shipping send me a message for more info

I understood it differently chief.:) source: Voyager 1 had a problem. Here's how NASA fixed it from 15 billion miles away. Fixed or not, its really low on fuel. Like next year to be able to collect scientific data, but maybe a decade left to continue to transmit a basic signal. source...

Part is used 25.00 plus shipping Send me a message for more info

One is cast with 4027567 the other has the DPCD mark but no part # on it so it is an earlier version. The later one (4027567) has ribs running along it...stronger version I assume. Here are the part numbers that go with these: All of these are the same part: 3744827 2951841 2946128 2951844...

Uh. I put the battery on charge. Some wasps have moved in. Been working on a new acquisition. Phil