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I don’t believe those numbers mean anything to help further answer your questions. You’ll find similar on all of the stamped sheet metal chassis and body parts.

I’ve done that and it works.

Same with the previous generation. All quarter glass is convertible specific.

Be careful removing those whatever you do those are reusable if you don’t pry the head off. Get a small & thin pry bar and gently work them straight out. These seats are heavy with the power bases attached I know but if you use that same penetrant on the hardware under the car that holds bases...

I’m not sure what year the change happened but this has the larger return nipple like my ‘64’s do.

Start applying a good quality penetrating oil. I prefer Kroil but PB Blaster is more common and is decent.

Obviously these are “before” pics? How does it look now?

Budd system in ‘68…

After you get new springs ditch those air shocks, or even sooner! The rear shock crossmember on these cars was not meant for the stress air shocks can put on it. If the springs are that bad you are already transferring all that load to the crossmember.

@Devinism One of our own specializes in rebuilding of these panel dimmers(among other things) if that is what’s required of yours.

Should be in the glove box owners manual too.

Wait a minute…what exactly did you do to stop the knocking?? And what kind of plywood??

That’s what I thought.

That’s late enough in ‘70 that it could be for the ‘71 model year.

I’m more of an Imperial guy and they have power lock switches by the window switches but I think the other C bodies were integrated right into the knob next to that little emblem.

That little metal emblem says power locks. This car still has all of its wicker trim inside it looks like. I imagine that’s not easy to find.

I would put all my money on a worn out pushrod in this case.

It’ll be this one I’m sure. NOT MINE - 69 SPORT FURY CONVERTIBLE at estate sale

You won in my opinion!:thumbsup:

Lift off, we have lift off! :lol: