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looked up that tire. hadnt heard of it. a great OE look, right stripe, robust size, and keeps options open for different wheel choices later. on spare, id get a "modern" ('80's-'90's), Ford or Mopar, since that wont have too much positive offset) 15x7, 5x4.5 from a salvage yard, $20...

The booster in your photo's is newer. Appears to be for an Aspen/Volare, along with the various later B body based cars. Jeff

So Sorry to hear of your loss. I lost my dad in '76, at 56 years old and mum in '12, at 93 years old. Sad and sobering. Take solace in good memories and cherish the lessons learned. Our loved ones may be gone physically, but they need never leave our spirits. Good memories are a great blessing...

I have explained this so many times before I refused to write it all out again. Somebody needs to find the old post and stick it here too. A whole lot of nonsense in some of the posts above. No fire. No flood. Not "Lost" in the sense they were misplaced. I've had several chats with Brandt...

is it a plastic filler similar to bondo?

Also CBody, how do you adjust your valves. Hot or cold? I cant move fast enough to do them all without the engine cooling a little bit so I do them cold adding 2 thousands to the hot measurements.

Thanks C body, I jumped the gun a little. The mixture screws are a little hard to get to and I think the angled screwdriver made me think it was bottoming out and it wasn't. I tried it again and it does as is expected, almost dies when within about a half a turn. I did the vacuum gauge method...

Interesting, sounds like parts get swapped out in the reman process, with mix and match final results. I wrote "Booster Dewey" about my issue and will see what his response says. I did find part numbers in my old 1969 dealer parts manual, for two different boosters. For what it's worth.

Latest update...sent the previous pics to them (via eBay)and explained the problem...they sent out another condenser...on the new one you could see they cut off the original fitting and welded on another one ...not the prettiest job i've seen but functional . .but the upper bracket was still...

Obviously, the idle mixture needs to be better-adjusted, BUT that has no bearing on what's happening at 1500-2000+rpm. Lightly-seat each idle mixture screw, noting how many turns it takes to get there. Then, from the lightly-seated position, turn each one out 1.5 turns. Then start the engine...

Yeah

The factory didn't use primer or clearcoat. I think rustoleum has a high heat primer, but I've never seen a high heat clear.

Ok can you send pics? dan300@hotmail.com Thanks

Nice look

another thing i hadn't noticed when i first posted this was that whatever tooling was used to put the flare on the tube end really scored the tubing and built up flash...I was concerned that the o-ring might not be able to seal it...in addition it was .300 long andit bottomed out into the other...

Just found out today that if I turn one of the idle mixture screws inwards the idle increases and stays the same even if the screw is all the way in? I'm used to having and engine idle real badly when doing this? I also "heard" that when adjusting that you should go for the highest idle and...

Sold long ago for 800 but mint

Nice car! I don’t hate the seats…

Ok i have all that we stripped the car it mint but was rolled by a bored teenager, taking his dad’s car out during Covid